What do these do in my Abu?

[ba229]

After some nice birdsnests yesterday I decided I better take my Abu Garcia 7300C3 apart for the first time and remove some Fireline that got down between the spool and the body

I got the body apart easily and removed the offending fishing line.

My question is about the centrifugal weights in the reel.

A: Shows the weights in the reel
B: Shows where they run inside the reel
C: shows some spares that came with the reel

Now I take it that as the spool spins it forces the weights outwards and thus acts like a drag on the spool.

But why does it need it? The reel already has a mechanical brake that stops the spool overrunning (sometimes anyway )

What happens if I put the bigger weights on? What effect do they have? will it slow the spool down more? Are they used for bigger lures?

Regards

[ba229]

And one more question

Has anyone got an easy way to remove the circlip sort of thing on the handle shaft? I don't want to damage the brass threads that are directly below it so it kind of rules out some rough housing that I would normally do :-)

[agnes_jack]

BA229
Yep they are counter weights that slow the spool down to reduce overruns. The heavier weights will slow the spool down more which helps when casting heavier weights.
The brake you refer to is a spool tension knob which also helps in prevention of overrun if set properly.
The "c" clip I usually remove with a tiny watchmakers screwdriver, just lever it off from one side gently. They do have a tendancy to fly off in any direction when you do so to be safe, put the reel in a plastic bag to catch
the flying piece.
The spool weights can be removed, (I throw mine away) but they are a big help when getting used to the reels.
Regards, Tony

[Jeremy87]

Its a bit of not so simple physics. From my experiences with over runs (which is quite a few i will confess) they are caused for two different reasons.

1. The mechanical brake is on too light and the spool releases more line than the lure is taking.

2. The spool is still spinning when the lure hits the water.

These can be fixed by using your thumb and mechanical brake to their optimum, but for us mere mortals centrifical or magnetic braking is required.

The idea is that the tension of the line should be proportional to the speed that the spool rotates at. If the tension is greater than the spools speed the lure goes nowhere. If it is less than the speed of the spool you get an over run. Due to the path that a lure takes (parbolic) more line is released than the net distance travelled. For this reason you can allow the spool to slow down during the cast. So to prevent me going on and writing an essay on tension between the lure and the spool i'll just say that to prevent birds nests the spool needs to slow down during the flight of the lure to give the line enough tension to prevent over runs.

So how does the centrifical brake work. Simply the plugs push up against the spool slowing it down, the faster the spool spins the greater the plugs are accelerated away from the centre resulting in more friction. Friction between surfaces is dependant of 3 factors.

1. acceleration (affected by the speed of the spool)

2. mass (number of plugs and size/weight of plugs)

3. coefficient of friction (dependant on the surfaces and surface area again affected by the size and number of plugs)

So the affect the larger plugs will have is that they will slow a fast spinning spool more quickly than fewer lighter plugs. So to prevent over runs if you are using light lures casting a long distance use no plugs. Heavy lures a short distance use all the heavy plugs.

Hope this makes sense.
Jeremy

[agnes_jack]

Jeremy
Thats what I meant...........I think [smiley=dizzy.gif] [smiley=worried2.gif] [smiley=wreck.gif] [smiley=freak.gif]

Regards, Tony

[NeilD]

The current trend in distance casting is to not use the spool tensioner as a brake and to use thicker oil with either centrifical and magnetic breaking systems.
As Jeremy explained so well the effectiveness of the centifical break blocks relies on their mass and coefficient of friction. Any intrusion of water or oil onto your blocks will change these parameters and cause you problems.

Neil

[Volvo]

[smiley=dizzy.gif] [smiley=scholar.gif]yep!!! hexactly what i woz about ta say also there jeremy [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[ba229]

lol Jeremy. Who has a physics degree then?

I noticed that my weights have grease on them (from factory) so I will put the big ones on and make sure they are dry. Anything to help at this stage is worth a try.

I was casting with it yesterday and 'flaming heck'.... didn't I get some birds nests. I hope I get better at this because it will get real expensive really quickly. and I was almost concidering going back to an egg beater and just using the overhead for bottom bashing.

[mackmauler]

yeh you have form with those bird nests ill pay that lol.


top reply jeremy.

[Daintreeboy]

You can actually buy circlip pliers. I like Tony's backyard method but, works for me.
Cheers, Mark.

[szopen]

To add a little.

The weights in this type of brake stop the spool from spinning too fast playing out more line than is being actually pulled by casted object.
The faster the spool spins the more braking they provide.

This is different from the spool tensioner brake which is braking all the time with the same force.

[JewseeTHAT]

Yank out the weights, disable any mechanical braking system, take off the level-wind if fitted, and PRACTICE till your thumb bleeds. You'll enjoy more satisfaction from having total control, and the bonus of being able to cast further when needed. Thicker stiffer line also reduces nests, and is handy while you're sorting things out. When I go to a new reel I use older line from the bottom of my alvey, while I get the feel of it. Did I mention practice? /me searches for the bleeding thumb smiley.

[ba229]

You can actually buy circlip pliers. I like Tony's backyard method but, works for me.
Cheers, Mark.

Most circlips I have seen in the past have small holes at either end that the pliers slip into and then you pry them apart or together depending on whether it is an "inside" or "outside" circlip.

This type is a little different to the standard circlip and only has a small gap on both sides a little way in from the end.

[szopen]

This one looks different from one on my Abu 9000 manufactured circa 1989 (have holes).

I would try to use needlenose pliers, put flat on the screw top and push the thing off.
Carefully, they do fly off.

The good news is this is a standard piece and you can get replacement one. With holes.

[Fishin_Dan]

Ba229 - I would probably look at trying the following... It's a little like some people have suggested already, but slightly modified...

1) Put the reel in a bag, and beat off the C-Clip with a hammer (Remember - If at first you dont succeed, try a bigger hammer!)
2) Get a cordless drill, and drill some holes in each end of the C-Clip
3) Beat the C-Clip back on with the hammer (You may need a bigger hammer to get it back on!!!)
4) Then get your C-Clip pliers, and gently place the ends in the holes.
5) Remove the C-Clip gently

There you go! All off nice and safe!

If anyone else needs any technical/mechanical beatings (read - Tips), I'm more than happy to help!!!

<Obviously this comes with no warranties for workmanship - Any work undertaken here, should all happen after lots of whiskey!>