Full backyard service on a GQ 4.2D?

[FNQCairns]

Hi all, a Repco 20% off discount card came with the last rego sticker.
So I thought I would put it to good use getting a jump on parts for a service on the new car when it turns up.

Can anyone tell me what, where and how many filters etc I need.

Am I going to faint from sticker shock! compared to a petrol joby!

Also I have a cav filter originally bought for the boat that I might fit, is this a good idea? It might already have a factory one somewhere where inline should it go on these animals?

I already know how many sparkplugs I need...none! Now thats a first for me.

I am really green on diesels. But willing to get dirty.

Cheers fnq

[revs57]

G'day Scott,

Good to see you getting a head start mate

The GQ Deisel has:
2 Oil filters( Drivers side rear of the motor quite high up)
A spin on fuel filter (passange side rear of engine bay toward top of motor)
and a primary air filter element (front Passanger side behind head light) and
a secondary air cleaner element (on top of the induction system at the top of the motor) ...

I would'nt worry too much about the primary filter unless doing a heap of dusty driving. I'm not running one in mine until I head into something really dusty...others may have other opinions.

I'm going to replace the secondary air filter with a finer filter when it comes due.

Your local Autobarn/Super Cheap/Repco will have a Ryco catelogue for you to get the right ones...There may be some quality generic brands a little cheaper, Repco may have their own line...check the filtering capacity and compare with the Ryco...Ryco been around a long time and pretty much set the industry standard

You will use about 12 litres of oil on an intermediate oil change (5000klm intervals) and near on 15 litres when you change the oil filters (10,000klm). The oil filters are in a cow of a spot high on the drivers side rear of the motor, not much you can do about the old oil running down the block and over the axel...have a good sized drip tray to put under the Drivers side of the engine bay and a can of $2.00 degreaser on hand to give it a clean up with after - its easier than trying to mess around with rags and deflectors IMO.

I'm running Shell Helix deisel oil for turbo charged motors...on special this month at Autobarn $40.00 for 10 litres. High detergent oils partularly designed for petorl engines dont give the same protection for Deisels IMO. Deisel oil runs really black, don't freak when you check the dip stick...lots of ash content/solids which is why I prefer to run an oil designed for deisels rather than a general multigrade oil that is will do for deisels too.

Having said that, I'm not sure its worth running the more expensive deisel oils like Valvolene longhaul, Rimula X (my personal best choice) etc IMO. And usually I stick to the one oil brand unless short on options...so I will probably stick with the helix deisel oil for the life of this engine.

I've been known to put a Bitron additive in my oils (including power steering, transfer case & diffs) to improve the properties (developed and used by NATO in hummers and tanks)...may get some for the new rig although I havent yet - a full inventory would cost around $150ish but it is good gear...although I think these days with the dollars companies spend on R & D the standard products are adequate...this could be a good thread topic

I always run quality filters, not cheap imports...the filtering capacity is much greater in quality filters removing fine micron particles. By cav filter are you meaning water trap? I think they have one somewhere...my old 60 series cruiser did and I understand its standard equipment on deisels???

Mate good to see you looking to spoil your new baby...sound like she's coming to a really good home..not that I would expect anything less given the careful reaseach that went itno her purchase.

I will talk to Brad tomorrow to see if he can do anything with a door to door transfer

all the best

Rhys

[FNQCairns]

Rhy's that's a great article, thank very much for that heaps of stuff in there I would have had to nut out for myself by trial and error.

Crikey! 15L of oil that will put me to sleep pouring that! hope the oil cap hole is wide!

Great article, cannot think of anything more to ask.

Although do you know how to prime (fuel) one of these, any tools needed? or are they self priming. Just good to know info like this.

Sent payment yesterday, will PM about 'done by mate' inspection report part of the story is a doozy!

cheers

fnq

[Daintreeboy]

FNQ you need to get onto Moffy for help on this also, he has one and services it himself. Revs has filled you in well but you will find the oil is closer to 11 litres with filter change, not 15. I use 20 litre drums for oil changes since they are so regular and it is worth investigating when half is taken with just one service. You can do a lot of kms up this way. Anyway I'll let Moffy fill in the rest, he services his car well, pity he can't fish..................

[FNQCairns]

Thanks DB, looks like moffy and I now have a couple of extra things in common

I have been reading a lot on patrol forums and these engines have a good rep but comparing total all up costs per km against the petrols over the life of each I think the petrol probably wins the numbers game fairly easily. The penalty will be big if I dont look after it well and right from the start, tips to save a few bob are very welcome.

I have also read using the wrong oil will be costly in top end replacement parts with time but they didn't fill in what a "wrong oil" actually was Hate that!

Will look into the drums... good idea, thanks.

cheers

fnq

[Daintreeboy]

No arguments on the extra cost but I reckon Diesels are better for 4WDing hands down and that's what the utes are 4 (Moffy and I have one). Petrols are fine and do the job but they do not hold a candle for 4WDability in low range situations, except beach work. Since there is very little beach work to do up this way it's Diesel all the way.

There was a very interesting debate on the Yahoo Patrol forum a while ago about this and it was explained quite well by one of the engineers who is a moderator on the site. Basically even though most Petrols have a higher power figure and comparable torque value to a diesel in an equivalent vehicle (eg. the Patrol 4.2 and 3 L diesel vs the 4.8 petrol), the diesel still has better low down drivability even if the dyno figures don't show it.
It was termed the gutter effect where if you 'steer' you petrol down the street in first without your foot on the accelerator and then steer it up over the gutter it will stall yet a diesel will simply lug away over the top of it. This relates in real life situations driving rocky tracks etc.
It was expalined by the momentum of the engine. A diesel has a higher compression so was harder to stop when presented with an obstacle where the petrol died quick smart as it's really only the next piston firing that keeps it going, not momentum as well. It's a bit more long winded than that but you can log onto it and search for it if you want.
One last thing. Diesels are more economic than their petrol cousins when you look at the figures. Up this way that's important with range being a big factor between servos.
Cheers, Mark.

[revs57]

And Mark, I understand that deisel is more available in remote areas too...may be a factor if doing desert trecks etc and an emergency crops up...I've even heard because of the petrol sniffing issue, some communities are going to deisel only...don't know how true that is but I could understand it to be so...

Cheers

Rhys