Good to see Yamaha mentioned fellows I not biase
The Way to go
BladeRunner [smiley=bandana.gif]
Good to see Yamaha mentioned fellows I not biase
The Way to go
BladeRunner [smiley=bandana.gif]
I was told by a marine mechanic that services police boats that he best method to flush your motor is in a drum. It allows you to monitor the water pump for any sings of deteriation.
Hey guys , another slant on running ur engine for that long whilst not in gear.....gearbox oil is not circulating so the ear muffs and in gear is the way to go......just stay with it and keep kids and dogs away...
Dont worry bout the missus though ..
uh oh, sounds like somebodys missus has put her foot down about new gear maybe? Bit savage tho hehehe
Maybe mine is a newer design or something coz I have a connection point for the hose and don't need to use muffs.
I asked my outpord mechanic if it did a full clean and he said yes it will do the job and no need for the muffs. I think it has something to do with flushing bacwards as the connection point is at the telltail.
Now as I am writing this I am sure there will be most that will say that this is wrong and you definately must do a motor driven flesh, but what if you don't?
I have had this rig for over a year and also gone throught an annual cycle of servicing with no probs.
Cheech
I still like to do the run flush as well as the conection.
Aido does your engine have the slits or holes just above the vent plate? Usually with omc (Yamahas were copys) engines there are slits or holes just above the vent plate that when on the muffs can be seen to start dumping water as soon as the thermostat opens.
Just a general note note on thermosats one of the jobs they do is to restrict water flow (even when fully open) so that water pressure will allow even the highest most irregular water gallery portion to have water at any rpm. Removing them can keep a cooler engine on average mostly too cool, but it also can cause high in head hot spots that see no water and are in overheat.
A water pressure guage is priceless on a outboard motor. nq
good advice there nqcairns
sounds like this mercury set up cheechOriginally Posted by Cheech
wish i could find some info like that for my motor
nqcairns, great info mate,
from memory, mine has those slits both sides above the ventilation plate.
also from memory, hot water dumps there after a few minutes.
thermostats working???
also a few holes under the vent plate near the bolt heads,
and of course thru the prop.
this little exercise has been a goldmine for me,
i've learnt if the thermostats are removed or failed open,
premature engine wear can result at idle in most outboards due to the low operating temp
same same if the prv or poppet valve sticks open at idle.
fully agree with you about a water pressure gauge, that will
be my next little project on the to do list.
regds, aido.
Thanks for the kind remark fella's, this will teach ya.
Here is my take on the subject it might help some.
These are the products flushing is trying to slow down - aluminum carbonate, aluminum hydroxide and aluminum oxide probably others also. Sea salt is not the real problem it just electricly speeds up what is allready happening ie the aluminium is trying to disintergrate back to it's most stable state - corrosion by-products. Flushing helps but does not make much difference, especially to offshore engines, most of the damage is done on the water (at running temp)because as soon as the corrosion and scale starts freshwater after the fact will not remove it.
Flushing for however long will only remove the sea salt and other chemical 'salt's' (magnesium, calcium etc) in there crystal form it will not dissolve any of the chemical scale or corrosion etc(which is the result of the 'salt's' above and temperature like in elect coffee jug).
If it will clean your jug it will clean your engine gallerys, flushing a cordless kettle clean with fresh water is as we all know is fruitless.
In an old 28 year old 6hp seahorse all clogged up with crap I added CLR (vinegar is also supposed to work) to the flush drum and ran it for 10 minutes a few times a day for a week or so, that cleaned it up inside like a 5 year old engine.
I wont advocate any individual doing this to their $10000 dollar engines without looking into it first and make up their own mind.
If they did make the decision to do it on a larger engine a person can adapt one of those liquid fertilizer applicators that attach to a garden hose. nq
Good advice there NQ, can I add by advising to disconnect the battery at the terminals when putting the boat back in the shed.
And also that it is good practice to remove the thermostat for inspection and a clean every twelve months.
found a bit of crap (gasket material maybe??) in the
l/h thermostat. cleaned em up, tested them and found
the cracking temp at 52deg c and full open about 70ish.
oh well, glad i had a look there, anyhow.
aido.
Have just spent a week on the water with an outboard mechanic of some thirty years experience and we discussed this topic as I was interested in his opinion . His feelings :
Forget that any outboard may have flush fitting for so called flushing without running the outboard - useless.
Flush with muffs for at least ten minutes at only up to fast idle.
He has no problem with flush silencers that fit into the prop exhaust.
He has no problem with proprietary brand flush additives used as instructed.
Can't say I disagree with him.
Chris
I was of the understanding that the telltale was taken before the water ebters the motor to cool the engine therefore it would never get hot .
I have only ever had an increase in temp at the water flowing out of the exhaust/prop area , from cold when first connected to warm after a few minutes , and i always flush for 5 minutes .
Peter
thanks lurch,
without having a suzuki cooling system schematic diagram,
i am going to make the assumtion mine is too.
even though this similar motors telltale looks like it only
discharges water when the thermostats open ???
guess it's not really that similar?
cheers. aido.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
