Drive on trailers.

[Cheech]

Next question re my new boat.

It has a drive on trailer, and I gave it a go first trip out and managed a nice scrape when the wind pushed me a bit off centre at the last minute.

So what are the rules and the tips of driving a boat onto a trailer?

For a start I think that stoppers on the rollers to stop them folding back woud be a great start!!. Will probably modify the roller brackets.

Intersted in hearing how far in you back the trailer. ie is it a long way in so that when you drive it on or off you are pretty close to being fully on, or easily off.

Do you trim the motor a long way up to stop from hitting bottom or sucking in sand.

All the basic things really that you may take for granted.

Cheech.

[SeaSaw]

Weren't you paying attention ??? Here is what I do

I back it in until the back set of rollers are basically floating. If there is strong current or wind blowing AND the ramp has no-one else around, I back it in on an angle so that I can come in against the wind/current and the trailer angle is helping. This is a no-no if there are other boats at the ramp. Wind/Current are the biggest problem, but if you come in against it and get the nose in on the centre rollers, you can then bring it around pretty easily. I run the engine in shallow water drive as well so as not to damage the prop. Best to come in as slowly as you can, given the wind/current situation as it gives you more time to hit reverse if you are going to miss (and we all do from time to time )

When all else fails, get yourself a tin of gel coat putty to fix the dings & scratches. >

CHeers,

Mark

[Needmorerum]

Cheech, any place on the trailer that could come in contact with the boat if you miss, should be covered by the same material the rollers are made out of, of course this depends on glass or alloy.
I find that I put the trailer in as far as possible without getting the car anywhere near the water. I always have someone else with me so I keep just enough power on to hold the boat up at the winch post while the cable is connected and tightened up.
The outboard is on shallow drive, but enough depth so that it isn't throwing a water spray out the back. Most ramps should allow you to keep the prop easily in the water.
Retrieving the other day in a strong cross wind and with the tide running full in against the side of the boat, I got it on the first time but the ass kicked around before I could get it up to the top of the trailer, I come in very slow, and then the second time I was off line too far so hard in reverse to pull away from the trailer, then the third I let it sit on the rollers, when the ass moved around slightly I then gave it a bit more power and steering up the trailer it went on straight as a button. First time I've had it kick sideways, as I normally come back in at either the top or bottom of the tide.
Anyway, one thing I have learnt is you have to be confident that you can do it, and then if you can't, fix the scratches. I would be checking whatever it was that touched the boat and wasn't covered to prevent marking. You should be able to get something that covers it.
If you want I can take some photo's of the back of the trailer and show you, but most of the trailer makers websites show some good pictures of the protection.

Hope this Helps

Corry

[cooky]

as I'm new to boating I've tried a few times to drive-on the trailer - don't know if a drive-on trailer, but mostly successful. Makes me nervous everytime - especially when windy or strong current (or both). Mine is a 5.4m glass boat with an 18 inch prop and this seems to NOT offer me a slow speed - therefore I'm approaching the trailer at (to me) an uncomfortable rate of knots - difficult to pull up.
The only issue I've had is in strong tidal current where I had to try to hit the trailer at about 45 - after mounting the trailer guards and stuffing up after a few attempts I have up and got some exercise winching it up.
Felt sorry for a guy yesterday - had a huge Haines (must have been 26ft cabin cruiser flash thing - was with wife (she wasn't helping). After almost putting the boat into rocks trying to release from pontoon (he had to back down trailer) he was having major difficulty 'driving' on his trailer - many people waiting - him taking up whole 4 lane ramp cracking the shits (lots of revs reverse/ back again/ whoops). He eventually got it on. His mate had a larger boat and drove on trailer very confidently - right between my boat on trailer and rock wall - one metre spare either side - he calmly climbed over the front down a bow ladder and into his new V8 cruiser and away.
he had these trailer guide extensions on each side of his trailer with rollers (stick up vertically at end of trailer with rollers on them) - good idea - I'd like them - gives you the width of your trailer to hit and will guide you in.

[blaze]

I built a couple of bits of timber, tapered down to the size of the rear roller with teflon strips, doesnt matter what angle you hit it at the bow goes to the cenre and then you square up the the outboard steering with a bit of power, when square power up the trailer while trimming motor up. Will post a pic if you like.
cheers
blaze

[cooky]

blaze - where do you get the teflon strips from? yes wouild like to see photos

[Thebuffalo]

I have one of those easy loaders for Thebuffalo. I don't have a drive on trailer as sutch (can't bring myself to modify the one I have and to tight to buy a new one). I find that this is very helpful. I drive her about three quaters of the way on and then get off, the main thing I found is to find the balance between keeping enough speed not to get of course and keep steerability but slow enough to pull up. The other thing is to not give a sh** about the people on the ramp who are generally gawking at what is going on. I find the more I rush in an effort not to clog up the ramp the longer it takes. Most of the time blokes up here will lend a hand if they think you are having trouble. We don't have many useable rams with beach alongside or pontoons for that matter, so driving on is pretty much what has to happen in my case.

[basserman]

yeh buff i could imagain not too many people up that way would be wanting to stand hip deep in the water up your way

[subzero]

The best advice I think anyone can give is to assess the conditions as near to the trailer as possible before attempting recovery. Stand Off. See what has the greater effect, wind or current. Be aware of local obstructions that may alter your safe trailering such as pier, jetty, ramp, coastline itself and even other vessels. These can all change the conditions in a matter of yards of your angle of attack closer inshore at lower speeds.
Methods to assist recovery. (Not nessecarily in order)
1)Aim the trailer on an angle (jacknife it a bit) so you can drive into the prevailing strongest force if need be to help slow your approach and enable you to use slightly more revs thus giving you better steering with the engine as far down as you can SAFELY do.
2) Stand Off, watch what other similar boats are doing, assess the conditions before making your approach.
3) Use the conditions that you have. Allow for the effects of the tide and wind.
4) Approach with confidence, if you freak out at the last minute you will probably loose it altogether. (Not so over confident that you wreck the boat and or trailer).
5) Warn any pax on vessel you may not have time to warn them if you have to throw the engine(s) into reverse suddenly. (The last thing you need is to be distracted worrying about others on the boat not holding on at the last second).
6) If you get it in the trailer ok and the stern starts to swing, dont panic... increase revs gradually and it will straighten up. Turn the helm in the appropriate direction. Be carefull that you do not ride up and over the side of the trailer.
7) Know your trailer, too deep in the water, in the chop it can lift your bow out of the guides, to shallow, goodbye skeg and prop as you come on and the bow lifts, the stern drops.
8) Tilt motors up gradually so as not to damage the above. Tilt to far to soon and you lose thrust and steering.
9) Given the opportunity, practice when the weather is shitty and you arent going to get any fishing done anyway. No one will be on the ramp in these conditions and you can get ready for the day you are overun by the weather that you would not normally go out in.
10) Pick an area of the trailer/car to aim at, if the console on the boat is offset this can make you oversteer quite a bit to one side untill you get used to it. For instance if your console is to the starboard/right side, your aiming point might be the right hand tail light of your car. (As long as the trailer is in line with the car). I have also seen people mount poles on their trailer sides to help guide them as when the boat gets closer to the trailer its view can dissapear and that can get a little unnerving.

I was very greatfull for the training I recieved in preparation for the eventuallity of conditions closing in and having to recover a vessel in less than favourable conditions... 8.2 m Stingray, Night, very tired after a weekend on roster, 25-30 knot Southerly, incomming tide, pouring with rain, 1.5m seas breaking on the jetty, 3 little kids crying, mum and dad stressing after towing their vessel to safety, too dangerous to offload the kids on the ramp with the conditions at the time, drove on first go with engines down at more speed than comfortable with and to be honest, I think I would have lost my nerve if I had missed it.

If you find yourself in this situation, safest option anchor up, go to a more sheltered area at another jetty or ramp, call your local VMR or Coastguard to take you off your vessel if need be, we/they will take your vessel to sheltered water before returning you to shore.
Think that about covers most of it. Good luck.
Cheers LLoyd

[yockman]

I find the single most useful bit of gear for driving on, apart from a well setup trailer, is one of those spinner knobs like you see on forklift steering wheels. Guys, you just gotta gotta gotta have one of these things so you got one hand for the throttle and one hand for the wheel. Things get iffy without one, you're trying to spin the wheel with both hands, then grab a bit of reverse gear, then turn the wheel again, then comes the inevitable ccrruunncchhh. Without a doubt The best $15 I've ever spent on boats and would never be without one again.
Just my $.02
Yockman

[MikeH]

I'm new to the process as well but I've found that it pays to stand off near the ramp (usally after I drop the missus off to go get the trailer... yes fellas I have a missus that can reverse a trailer... how good does it get) I talk her down on the UHF (which pisses her off.... how good does it get).... but I use the time to sit there in neutral to monitor the effect of wind and tide... and then I do a quick calc and set myself up for the "very" gentle approach either to the left or right of target and let the wind and tide push me in with a bit of forward power.. then back to neutral...on/off style works for me with not that much steerage (you usually don't have much any way) once the bow is the block hole on with a bit of power ... which will generally swing the stern back around...if you've got the option take your bimini top down.. if you get it wrong ....reverse if your friend ... go round, recalc your approach... this time allow a bit more/less... So far I haven't marked it. (I guess as confidence builds I'll try it with a bit of pace... but this is a gentle way to learn)

I try to resarch all my local ramps (inspections at low tides are well worth it) to work out best approashes/how much motor I can keep in the water... I've heard too much angle and the motor will sink the stern (wack your leg/prop) and push the bow up if you apply to much power.. (this depends on your boat a bit I guess)

The other thing is to keep a bit of power on once you've successfull landed on your trailer ... until you can get your front hook on... I tend not push the drive on thing all that far.. yet.... I'll get it within a metre then slip over and throw the hook on...(well I get the missus to do that... how good does it get... yep I make her wind it on as well.... I do keep a bit of power on to help her wind it on..... might buy her a 12V winch for XMAS... that'd be fair). My trailers not a full roller trailer, teflon slides to suit the tri-hull design.... being tri-hull it self centers pretty easy. (Yes ... I did buy the Eagle-ray... I'll post some pics soon)

I've seen guys with roller trailers put little skid timbers (with telflon tops) on their trailers (longways) (toward the rear) such that these skids are half in and half out of the water when setting the trailer for retreival ... such that the when you drive on, the boat will stay-put with-out rolling back in (and not having to leave power on)

[Cheech]

A re-post of the picture would be great Blaze.

I remember when you posted the picture about a year ago and spent an hour searching for it in old posts but could not find it. If my memory serves me correctly there was red carpet on it.

Cheech

[NQCairns]

Here it is:

http://www.ausfish.com.au/cgi-ausfis...00;start=15#15

[blaze]

Thanks Nqcains, was going to take another pic today as I couldnt find that link either
cheers
blaze

[drevil]

Hi Cheech

One thing I noticed that if you sink the trailer too much, the back of the boat "floats" over the rear rollers and only settles as you drive out of the ramp. This sometimes has the effect of not centering the keel on the middle rollers at the back properly. You just gotta find that balance.

My guide was using the reflectors on the guards - once they touched the water that was about the right amount of trailer in the water.

Drevil.