I was wondering if some one could help me ???
I have just drained the gear oil out of the leg and it seem's to have got a little bit of water in it I mean it has not turned white but like a dark coffee colour, is it o.k. just to put new oil in it or do I have to have it pulled apart ??
Cheer's
i once had water in a mercury gear case,
first a bit of dirty watery crap came out followed by creamy goop.
coffee coloured oil may be old or overheated. maybe water??
depends, do you know how long its been in there?
water and oil don't usually mix too well, and in a clear container
i'd expect some water to settle on a lower level than oily sludge.
further, i'd drain it, refill with new oil, go for a short run (to load it up)
then drain in a clear container. if all looks good fill with new oil again
and sample some at the drain hole after every few trips out.
at least till your confident the seals arn't leaking.
A good submerged transmission gear oil, as made by the major brands will have additives to allow it to emulsify as much as 5% water. Normal gear oil 3%.
And the oil still will still be able to perform OK.
At 5% you can expect the oil to be very milky white.
If your oil is just a dark coffee colour, it is most likely to be from long service life, and due to be changed.
The gear oil will go dark black in colour from this point the longer it is in service.
Change the oil.
If it has a slight milk coffee colour I would still change it and monitor it. The milkier the colour the more contamination.Milky sludge is bad.
You can easily test for water in oil by putting a good drop in a very hot frypan.If it spatters it has water in it.
Cheers Kev.
I have had straight water in my gear box. The seal around the drive shaft went, you are better off having water in there than nothing ......... well thats what my mechanic told me anyway
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Good frypan idea Reel Hard!
definately try that when the missus is out.
read in my merc w/shop manual that if the box has been assembled with the proper merc recommended ASSEMBLING lube the oil will have have a whitish tinge to it, good idea to drain into a clear glass container and let it sit for a day, the water will start to seperate and the water will show on the bottom. I have just resealed my box and the gear select seal was leaking a little with 10 psi of air pressure. I was going to only replace the suspect seal until, while checking the water pump I found effedence that a small amout of water must have ingressed there as well. Ended up doing all the seals.
A good home made system to check for leaking seals is to get a spare oil bung and drill an 1/8 hole in it and silver solder a 3/8 diameter nib onto it (I used an old mig tip), srcew this into one of the oil fill or drain hole and using a regulater set to no more than 10 PSI of air pressure, apply the air pressure and then submerge the unit in water. There will be some bubbles from air escaping the hollow section of the gearbox, they will then stop, check around where the seals are for air bubbles. Merc recomment 10PSI for ten minutes. DO NOT APPLY ANY MORE THAN 10 PSI
Hope this is of some help to somebody
cheers
blaze
10 PSI seems like a lot Blaze.
But if its in the manual it must be the correct way to do it.
Thats how suspect samples are first checked at the lab, before going the whole hog NQ.Originally Posted by nqcairns
Sounds rough but it works.
And yeah keep an eye out for the cook for sure.
Kev
just rechecked the manual
10 to 12 psi for 5 minutes, the pressure is right just the test time is to long and that wouldnt hurt
cheers
blaze
I am still astounded by the pressure. But I guess with a submerged transmission the seals have to be able to take a lot more punishment then a conventional unit.
Cheers Kev.
You are probable right Kev, if you did it to a transmission or diff you would probable pop the seals
cheers
blaze
Yeah the Exon Valdeze would be all over the shed floor.
Thank's guys you have helped me a heap, the oil is a milky coffee colour so I'm changing it and will keep an eye on it, I was told that the gear box was letting the water in thru a crack but after taking the prop off the crack is no were near the gear box , I'll try to add a photo of the crack , also if some one could tell me what this other thing is called ?? after taking off the prop and thrust washer this was around the leg, Sorry I'm not up to date with terms or descriptions of these parts, but after people have been telling me $h1t (eg, your motor's stuffed )to make more money, it's time I learn't to fix it myself. my old motor is a 1984 marnier 40 hp serial no. L 40998 can any one tell me if it has 2 seals or just one at the front on the prop shaft.
Cheer's chris
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