Reply With Quote
G'day Terry, are you familiar with other motors? If not I will run you down on the procedure I cannot see this procedure changing as it is so simple and straight forward. Leg technology is stuck in the 80s and probably will be for a few decades, doesn't mean they didn't change a couple of things just because they can on the E-T. If thats the case forget I replied
There will be a couple of straight blade screws one just above the skeg at the bottom of the gear tunnel the other will be near the top of the lower leg. There may be a Philip's head screw between these two leave that one alone.
First remove the lower one to start draining into a container then remove the top to speed up the process. Best to drain into a graduated container to help you check how much came out and what went in considering this is the first time on this engine.
Anyway allow to drain for a while until drips slow or stop. Then cut just the very tip of each oil bottle and force this into the lower hole and squeeze the bottle guts out! grab the next bottle swap with your finger over the top hole to slow flow out the bottom hole and squeeze that also. When oil starts coming out the top hole it is full and you are virtually done.
I like to run on the muffs for a couple of minutes in gear (kids dont try this at home) then I recheck level before the next on water trip.
Consider replacing the plastic washers after each full tightening of the screw as these are one of the major causes of water in oil on outboards.
Cheers fnq
