Disconnecting your battery

[troy]

How many members disconnect there battery and why.
By not doing it what do you think can happen apart from the fact whether it is adults or kids can leave the key on.
Does the battery go flat quicker or is it just a precaution.
Troy

[Morlers]

Hi Troy

I disconnect my batteries (two) when boat not in use via the isolater switch. This way it eliminates any leakage of power if a unit/appliance/light is accidently left on and hopefully the battery wont discharge.



Morlers

[Spaniard_King]

I never disconnect my battery

nor do I turn the battery switch off and I have neva had a problem, could be a result of wiring my own boat

I do swap batteries every time I am out tho

Garry

[Pointyfish]

Same at the isolator switch. With my last boat ( which didnt have an isolator switch ) when I left the battery connected I had problems with the plug to my sounder corroding.

[scuttlebutt]

I usually disconnect my battery because I've heard leaving it connected can cause corrosion in ally boats. Would be keen to hear from any experts re this.

cheers,

steve

[troy]

Scuttlebutt not sure about the corrosin issue in alluminiumn boats but you could have a valid point there.
My query is an outboard motor any different than a car engine.
If you do not use your boat for a month should you disconnect the battery.
troy

[Dignity]

use isolator switch - have a habit ofg leaving something on as often get into the boat at night to check last couple of gps marks, look to see what tackle needs replacing etc. Also have a circuit breaker for the anchor winch and it is surprising how much it will drop a battery over a couple of weeks.


Cheers Sam

[aido]

i always turn my batteries off when not in use.
my electronics have a leakage of about 1/10th
of an amp with everything turned off.
that will flatten a battery after a week or two.

[bidkev]

Turn 'em off. It reduces the risk of corrosion via electrolysis. I do it, even on the glass boat.

kev

[Hagar]

Same as Spaniard king

No we are not brothers . I have wired my boat myself like Gary . All my accessories and anything other than the motor come off a busbar that is isolated from both batteries by isolator switches . These are turned off when the boat is not on the water but the motor is always connected . My batteries never go flat . Mine is glass and so is Gary's from my understanding .

Chris

[Wear_the_fox_hat]

Scuttlebut,
I'm no expert, but I had a bit of advice from someone in the know before I stripped my boat & re-did every metal fitting & re-wired it.

My understanding is that electrolysis can be prevented in aluminium boats by:
a) Making sure that any metal fittings do not not come into direct contact with the hull or cabin/console. Different metals will react with each other by means of creating their own small electrical current. For example, stainless steel to aluminium or even one grade of aluminium to another grade. When you add moisture it makes it worse. Worse again if you leave the battery connected or not isolated. To prevent this, use Duralac. It is a yellow paste in an overgrown toothpaste tube & I have seen it being sold anywhere from $22 to $35. I have never seen evidence of this being used on a new boat but I beleive it should be especially from new.
b) Make sure that any salt water on the boat is neutralised by using Saltex or plain old dishwashing detergent. When there is moisture in the air, salt water residue even aftyer drying will continue to absorb this moisture & stay wet, thus helping to create electrolysis.
c) Disconnect or isolate battery/s. Any boat with a bad electrical connection or current continually circulating through it will get electrolysis.
d) Make sure excess water is removed from the floor of the hull where it will pool after washing or whatever. The chemicals in town water also assist electrolysis.
e) Don't leave sinkers, swivels or anything metal lying around in the bottom of the boat.
Even the friction between your boat/motor & the water creates a small electrical charge, thus the use of sacrificial anodes. Have heard of a guy that had his new aluminium boat moored in a marina & it developed pinholes in the hull within a couple of months. Turned out that it was moored next to an old timber sail boat that had copper fittings somewhere under the waterline & this was creating an electrical current in the water between the two boats. Apparently at night you could see flashes of light under the water between the boats.
Anyways, that's all I know. Someone out there will know more or may disagree, but I hope this helps.

Regards,
WTFH

[noluck]

Scuttlebut,
I'm no expert, but I had a bit of advice from someone in the know before I stripped my boat & re-did every metal fitting & re-wired it.

My understanding is that electrolysis can be prevented in aluminium boats by:
a) Making sure that any metal fittings do not not come into direct contact with the hull or cabin/console. Different metals will react with each other by means of creating their own small electrical current. For example, stainless steel to aluminium or even one grade of aluminium to another grade. When you add moisture it makes it worse. Worse again if you leave the battery connected or not isolated. To prevent this, use Duralac. It is a yellow paste in an overgrown toothpaste tube & I have seen it being sold anywhere from $22 to $35. I have never seen evidence of this being used on a new boat but I beleive it should be especially from new.
b) Make sure that any salt water on the boat is neutralised by using Saltex or plain old dishwashing detergent. When there is moisture in the air, salt water residue even aftyer drying will continue to absorb this moisture & stay wet, thus helping to create electrolysis.
c) Disconnect or isolate battery/s. Any boat with a bad electrical connection or current continually circulating through it will get electrolysis.
d) Make sure excess water is removed from the floor of the hull where it will pool after washing or whatever. The chemicals in town water also assist electrolysis.
e) Don't leave sinkers, swivels or anything metal lying around in the bottom of the boat.
Even the friction between your boat/motor & the water creates a small electrical charge, thus the use of sacrificial anodes. Have heard of a guy that had his new aluminium boat moored in a marina & it developed pinholes in the hull within a couple of months. Turned out that it was moored next to an old timber sail boat that had copper fittings somewhere under the waterline & this was creating an electrical current in the water between the two boats. Apparently at night you could see flashes of light under the water between the boats.
Anyways, that's all I know. Someone out there will know more or may disagree, but I hope this helps.

Regards,
WTFH

troy all above

[cooky]

i haven't charged my battery for over a year and I never disconnect. Have left it in the driveway for up to 6 weeks with no problems

[Heath]

I'm the same as Garry & Hagar. Never turn the battery off.

I didn't wire my boat myself, but the guys at Cruise Craft did a great job on the wiring using Pos & Neg buss bars.

[troy]

i have never had a good run out of marine batteries and i now buy heavy duty truck batteries.
They seem to me a better option unless i have been unlucky with marine batteries.
troy