More excellent tips. Thanks FishingRod!
Fishingrod -- what length of trailer would you recommend I use for a 4.55m boat?
All -- what are some reputable trailer suppliers/manufacturers in Melbourne?
More excellent tips. Thanks FishingRod!
Fishingrod -- what length of trailer would you recommend I use for a 4.55m boat?
All -- what are some reputable trailer suppliers/manufacturers in Melbourne?
Fair call...... Im not sure what variations the springs come in.Originally Posted by toymod
Ive got 6 leafs at the moment. I used to have 5 but after they sagged one one side after 7 years the trailer shop suggested i go to 6 leaf.
Ive noticed that some brands of new trailers (EG Boeing) have a single heavy duty leaf rated at 1400kg. Im not that familiar with the smaller trailers.
Back to SMELLYS QUESTION.
Buying a trailer is not that hard, as long as you have some idea (which you should now) Talk to the manufacturers direct. Some sell direct to the public or just phone them for advice once you have picked the trailer you want from a dealer. They know their stuff, its what they do. Take their advice. If they spin you some bullsh*t then go somewhere else.
It wouldnt hurt to measure the centreline legth of your hull from bow to stern. Dont included any bow rollers or steps or pods. Just the part that needs to touch the trailer. Also take a measurement from the bow eye (where the winch cable hooks to the hull) to the stern.
If you have a stationwagon or 4wd with a opening tailgate it may hit against the winch post if you have a trailer that is only just long enough for your boat. IE the winch will be as far forward as possible. In this case you might want to opt for a longer trailer ? In my previous 4x4 the height of the trailer coupling limited far far i could open the tailgate with the trailer on, so the winch post did not matter.
Also if the trailer is too short it can be a squash (or impossible) to fit a wind up jockey wheel as their is no space to put it and turn the handle without hitting the hull. This is extreme but i have seen it once.
Considering your boat is pretty short, make sure the trailer you get isnt really high. Or you will have to reverse too deep at the ramp. Occasionally you see some trailers that have flat frame and horizontal cross beams (left to right) and the boat sits on top of the trailer. Most other trailers have V shaped beams running L to R so the boat sits lower "in" the trailer and not on top it (if that makes sense)
Indeed...
All this important info. is really handy and will go a long way to help me decide on what I want for my new rig. Hopefully, it will assist others..as well
Thanks for the tips!
PS. Any more tips are highly valued as well.
I slightly beg to differ with the last post, 750 and under use the same springs to my knowledge 4 leaf spring the difference is in the draw bar size (in most cases) have a look here at the site below. WSith the increase of steel sizes it will be heavier so in fact this is the opposite theory of the last past it will smooth it out!
http://www.oceanictrailers.com/table...nium_specs.php
This should help you out and give you a guide to go by when shopping around (framing sizes skids etc). I havent found any other manufater that putz there details up not even redco or tinka! which as I found out is a big bugger, when trying to compare.
I to would recomend bearing buddies of some sort all trailers that I looked at has the tie down points the bigger the trailer the more they will have normaly for a trailer your size will have one at the front and one on each side down the back.
Once again hope this helps a bit
Melb based Dunbier trailers...
Melbourne Office
136-164 Boundary Road,
Braeside,
VICTORIA 3195
Ph: (03) 9580 2455
Fax: (03) 9587 3374
Email:
dunbier@dunbier.com
http://www.dunbier.com/trailers.htm
I have a Blue Fin 4.75 Weekender with a 60hp EFI 4st. This sits on an Oceanic trailer that is all gavanized and is only 17 months old. I have a problem with the trailer that I am about to fix myself. The trailer (and many others) has galvanized slipper springs. The spring on the right has snapped into three pieces. I am an engineering technician (retired) and I am fully conversant with springs and spring manufacture. The only comment I can make about galvanized springs is - "Get rid of them!" If you do a search thru other boating forums you will find my comments described in full detail. I have even lesser thoughts about slipper springs, I hate them!
The problem is that a "propper spring" is / should be fitted with a shackle same as found on a good quality box trailer. This unfortunately creates two problems. The trailer is raised a few inches more to accommodate the height of the shackle and a non-galvanised spring needs constant care and attention.
Actually, it may not need any extra TLC at all. The springs on a boat trailer need very constant TLC all the time, galvanized or not. How many of you dismantle your springs and check them over and lubricate them as often as they should be? Galvanized springs are prone to failure because they are galvanized. The extra heat of galvanizing can / will alter the temper and grain structure of the steel. (As I said, check the other forums). OK. I know that many of you will contradict me and tell me your galvanized springs have been going for years with no problems. This is great but I know many of you have come to grief also.
A major problem with my trailer (and yours too I bet) are the U Bolts that hold the springs and axle together. These bolts are only electro-plated and the zinc quickly dissapears. The threads and nuts rust up so much that it is difficult to impossible to undue them. The cheap bolts that lock the rollers and skids at their respective heights are very soft steel and again are only electroplated. They rust quickly and snap off when they need to be replaced or adjusted
I am pulling the boat off the trailer next week and repairing / replacing all the cheap junk on it. The square steel upright bars that hold the rollers and skids are going to have a short length of steel welded to them so that these parts cant slip down from the jarring of the road in transporting the boat. Everything will then be coated with two coats of cold-gal paint for protection. How many of you guys have had the rollers or skids slip down from their initial setting? How many of you tightened the locking bolts and had them snap off?
If I were to get another trailer for my boat, I would design it and build it myself. All the RHS would be sealed at the ends and it would have two coats of cold gal paint and two coats of a good top coat. There would be no galvanized springs or slipper springs.
A final note, I fitted a length of galvanized angle to the rear of my trailer to enable the hold down straps to be fitted. The original location for the holding straps were in a position that alowed the winch to rub on the chine. This cut a hole in it. The angle was bolted to the mudguard assembley and the angle bracket at the rear. The assembley is very rigid and it also stops the axle/spring assembley from moving out of alignment. If I can get a photo to transfer to the forum I can show you exactly how it works. To have the axle located and locked was a great blessing. You may or may not agree with my thoughts and or ideas but they work for me.
Eagle
Can I ask how much you paid for htis trailer Eagle?
SOunds deep - excellent tips - Many thanks!
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