Hi
I have read about anchoring from the cockpit with all the rope in a nally bin. Do you need a walk around layout to run the anchor rope out through the bow.
Thanks
Whichway
Hi
I have read about anchoring from the cockpit with all the rope in a nally bin. Do you need a walk around layout to run the anchor rope out through the bow.
Thanks
Whichway
No, you can anchor from a tiller steer or side console the same way, I have a mate who is a ex trout skipper and fisherman and told me that all the anchoring those guys do is from a seated position, so as to not stress their back out standing up setting and retrieving the anchor when bommie hopping for weeks at a time, all anchoring is done sitting down and all anchor retreival is by a float.
Went on a charter once where the skippa didn't have a deckie to help him anchor and didn't need one either, (7Mtr custom buile charter boat)
His anchor rope was stored in a large drum behind his seat, both ends of the rope were in this drum, the rope run to the bow and through the doova thereand back to the drum.
When anchoring he just threw the anchor out the side took up the chain slack as normal, then let out required rope and tied of on bollard on side near the rope drum, leaving exces rope in drum.
When raising anchor he simply drove around parralel to the rope being carefull not to go too close at the stern for obvious reasons, using a boat hook we grabed the line and attached a float and he motored away till the anchor was up under the float.
Then he proceeded to pull the rope in to the storage drum.
I can't remember exactly what the rope ran through at the bow but it was able to keep the rope straight out the front of the boat either way the wind and run was hanging us.
Tight lines <*)(((((((((><
Try making up a heavy line long enough to attach an eye on the bow and an eye to reach around into the cockpit. On this fix a float on a short lanyard or retrieval buoy. Keep ur anchor and line in the nally bin and move it between the cockpit and bow when u like.
When u wish to anchor from the cockpit tie off to the floated buoy and fall back onto the heavy line with float attached by an eye to the bowsprit. When retrieving motor up to the buoy and pull anchor onboard.
Tied off with a bowline-on-a-bight it can be released easily.
A variation to the spliced line idea.
Run a rope from the bow to the cockpit, or side of the boat.
This rope has an eye spliced both ends.
One end for the bow bollard, and the other (to tie off the anchor), inside the cabin.
keep the cabin end of the rope,in the cabin,along with the anchor and anchor chain etc in the boat .
Run the anchor rope, through the eye,
Release the anchor as normal
Tie off the anchor rope to the eye with a bowline,
keep the balance of the anchor rope , in the boat, to use to recover the anchor.
Now your anchor operates in the normal manner from the bow.
David
Simpler still - If you fish in roughly the same depth of water all the time - give or take 10 or even 20 meters, you just need to tie off your anchor at the bow bollard with the appropriate amount of line to the anchor. Drop anchor from the side, retrieve by using gaff/dan buoy, but when anchor is at the surface and before you retrieve the line, tie anchor rope to side bollard to stop the rope (the short distance between the bow and the nally bin) falling into the water. Undo from side bollard when anchor is dropped again.
Judging the distance to drop the anchor from the mark is made simpler by getting used to the zoom on your GPS
Modified:
Having said that I have just reread what David (dnej) has described and I do like the simplicity of the technique It gives you more flexibility. I reckon I'll try it.
Tony
Gidday Tony,
That will cost you a beer
David
Having a low profile cuddy cab, I found it a pain to get up through the front hatch, (not being a small person) also a bit dangerous in rough water, so I came up with a rig that I find works well for me. I have a rope attatched to the front bollard at the end of the rope approx 3 mts I have a stainless snap catch that is just long enough to reach a rod holder on the side of the cabin beside helm position. I have rope 150mts chain and anchor in nally bin.
I throw anchor in and when it has bitten I tie a loop in the main anchor line and attatch it to the snap catch then feed it out with end of rope still in bin in cockpit, when finished all I do is pull in the rope undo the snap catch then retrieve rest of line. I will see if I can take some photos and post them.
After using this rig for a while I have included in a rubber mooring ring and it takes the shock a lot better.
Pete, that is exactly what I was saying, except you use a fitting, and I use a spliced eye.
I dont have to put a loop in the rope, but rather do a bowline, with the anchor rope doubled, so as to not have to drag the rope, all the way through the eye.
Come to think of it, a stainless climbing link, would be great.
David
any chance of some sketches please would be a big help thanks folk
john
I just went to gat the camera and the Batts were flat [smiley=angryfire.gif].
I now have them on charge and will post some pics tomorrow
Pete
So David - does that mean that you owe Pete a beer, and since i owe you a beer, would it be easier if i shouted Pete the beer? Just to complicate the issue I need to ask: Isn't the bowline a loop and don't you put that loop through the splice in the same way that Pete ties a loop for his snap catch. Also How easy is it to untie these loops in the anchor rope each time you up anchor? Can you expand on the climbing link a bit?Originally Posted by dnej
Now how many beers is that I owe, and who to?
Tony
Have a look at this thread.
http://www.ausfish.com.au/cgi-ausfis...27299299/16#16
Tony,
My eye is spliced,and permanent.
You can have a fair length of rope left as a tail end, still in the cabin.
You dont want to drag the rope all the way through the eye, so the rope gets doubled, and a bowline tied in the normal way,with double rope.
Petes idea, means you could snap the fitting over the rope ( replacing the fixed eye), and then tie the bowline, with a single thickness.
A bowline knot, was designed so that it can be easily pulled apart, even with pressure.
About the beer, you owe me,and Pete hasnt made a claim yet, so no you dont owe Pete,---YET. LOL
David
Ok David I concede I am slow (I am also very poor because life costs me so many beers) - but would your doubled bowline look anything like the pic below with the double loop at the bottom going through the spliced loop and the two ropes coming out of the top of the knot in the pic going 1 to the anchor and the other to your surplus rope coil?
Tony