No waranty cover

[peter]

I've spoken with the dealer again and he assured me it could not be electrolysis.
He said it was salt creep and the best way of treating it was to give the affected area a good spray of Inox.

I also gave Blue Fin a call, they said they will call me back as they didn't have anyone in the office that could help me at the time.

Peter

[blaze]

Hi Peter
check this thread out I started sometime back
http://www.ausfish.com.au/forum/YaBB...51062436/10#10
cheers
blaze

[Alex9797]

Hey Guys,

It looks like the problem could be disimmilar metals in contact with each other. The only way to fix this is to revove the fittings and insulate with something like duralac. IMO this should be standard when the boats are put together.

cheers

Alex

[peter]

Blaze & Alex

Good read blaze and thanks Alex for your input.

Its becoming a little clearer. Guess I'll have to take out the bung and the studs and treat the area's and then cross my fingers.

Whats the Duralac famous for?

Peter

[Mr__Bean]

Peter,

If the Press Studs had been installed by a conciensus Boat Trimmer he would have installed the nylon washers between the stud and the boat. These act as an insulator for galvanic corrosion.

See photo below of the washers installed by the trimmer that did my travel cover.

- Darren

[peter]

Mr Bean,
Nice job, guess the trimmers (East Coast Trimmers) that the dealer sent my boat of had a low care factor.

Thanks for the trouble of the photo.

Peter

[Az]

i would be letting bluefin know about it as these dealers/trimmers are still giving them unwanted attention and I know if it were my business I wouldn't want the quality work done by the manufacturers undone by an associated company

[Camo]

[quote][/I've spoken with the dealer again and he assured me it could not be electrolysis.
He said it was salt creep and the best way of treating it was to give the affected area a good spray of Inox. [quote]

Your dealer is probably right it could be salt creep, or it could be that the surface wasn't prepared properly, before it was painted.

In any case forget about duralac. It dosn't do much good, because a few microns of this product is not going to stop the passage of electrons between two dissimilar metals. If you are worried about electrolysis, just make sure that your outboard motor is earthed to you hull.

Most outboard motors have a sacrificial annode made of Zinc, Mercatel, or a similar type material which is less noble than the alloys in the motor or the aluminium hull. By earthing the motor to the hull you make the boat and motor one cell and the least noble metal in the cell will not be the alluminium hull, but the sacrificial annode in the motor. This is what will be eaten away.

Provided you have the motor serviced and the annode cleaned and replaced on a regular basis you won't have a problem with electrolysis. I have had three ali boats over the last 13 years and all the motors were earthed to the hull. I didn't know why this was done for some years, but I didn't change it, and not one of them has had electolysis in the hull.

Camo

[Murks]

Thats unfortunate Peter, My guys at QLD Powerboats INSISTED that the paint chips and some flaking paint that had occured to my boat was fixed even though I was not fussed..
Good luck with it mate
Murks

[Seahorse]

when i paid my dep on my new boat today i put this to them . they told me that all paintwork will be cover telwater with stacer boats. thats why iam getting the whole package done by the dealer. i will not be getting anything done outside. i like the look of those nylon washers for covers and i will insist that this be done. salt creep? never heard of that. is that a cop out or common? on all those areas they will have to sanded back to bare metal, etch primed then painted.

[harlequin]

gunna the stuff recommended to me by marine coatings here in whyalla was an etch primer wattle ep it is an epoxy 2 component, eggshell colour yuk off green. abraded with 80 grit then wipe with alcahol rag left for 48 hrs. wiped again then final coat dulux luxathane, polyurethane 2 component proper application of base coat is important . spent 3 wks 10 - 12 hr days repairing holes 16 off & split 8" long caused by stems of rivets left in bottom of hull ( galvanic corrosion ) & bilge pump electrical joint laying on hull (electrolosis) no problems that was a year ago. except a split i caused by leaping out the water while wave jumping, no fish that day was bored.

[Mr__Bean]

Another thing to find out is whether the Press Studs they use are stainless or if they are nickel coated.

I can't remeber which one is preferred but I do remember the trimmer mentioning it.

- Darren

[gunna]

gunna the stuff recommended to me by marine coatings here in whyalla was an etch primer wattle ep it is an epoxy 2 component, eggshell colour yuk off green. abraded with 80 grit then wipe with alcahol rag left for 48 hrs. wiped again then final coat dulux luxathane, polyurethane 2 component proper application of base coat is important .

Thanks Harlequin