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another angle
Would like some help with a problem. I have been having trouble with breaking anchor ropes. when offshore fishing, like a lot of people I use a anchor ball and drive the anchor off the bottom. A number of times now when I drive off and there is a bit of tension on the rope and bow roller it has managed to cut the anchor rope. I believe the the problem is where the rope meets the side of the bow roller, it is acting like a knife. I would like to hear from anyone who can help.
Thanks Troy.
another angle
Troy,
Bring the rope around loosely and tie it off at the transom bollard if you have one.
Cheers
Steven
Cheers
Steven
Originally Posted by Hi-Yo
As was suggested on LuckyPhills thread on anchoring,(http://www.ausfish.com.au/forum/YaBB.cgi?num=1152692082) tying off on the transom cleat or #bollard is dangerous. #The risk is that if the anchor doesn't free itself and you dethrottle, the stretch in the rope #reduces and you can pull your stern under.
Troy I reckon the #better option is to #to tie it around the front bollard rather than through the bow roller. #I haven't looked at it closely but again on the Lucky Phill thread Smithy shows (I think) how he sets up the bow roller for anchor retrieve.
Tony
Hi Zulu
Just wondering
1 what length of what weight chain are you using and of more interest'
2 how big and what grade of rod is on your reef anchor?
How about some photos please,
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
Chimo I would like to show you a photo of my anchor, but their all gone. I normally use a mooloolaba reef pick 16lb.[probably to heavy] and about 4m of chain. Boat is 6.15m.
Thanks for the thread to the ''Smithy helpline'', as usual he provides good info.
Cheers Troy.
G'day zulu
Is it always necessary to drive the anchor off, its a bit more manoeuvring but why not reverse off with the anchor retrieval buoy.
Those standard bowsprits and rollers certainly don't look like they are designed for that purpose, you'd need something like a Panama lead (rounded edges).
Using a short line or pennant that reaches back to the cabin is a good idea, and ensure your bowsprit and roller are strong enough before tying an anchor line off to the roller. It may be difficult to release in a hurry if its fixed to the roller. As wind speed increases the resultant forces acting on the boat have a squared effect.
e.g a 5knts to 10 kts wind increase has 4 times the forces acting on the boat, add to this wave and current effect and there's a lot of weight on the anchor line. A 1 kt current can have the force of a 10kt wind.
I have observed a common theme in this and other recent anchoring threads. Its only my opinion and theory, but more scope could be used when anchoring on reefy ground. It may not always be practical but if more scope was used there may be less anchors lost. With more scope there will be less weight on the anchor and chain and more on the rope itself. In some cases if the chain was laid out better and there is reduced tugging directly on the chain and anchor, they will have less opportunity to snag on the reef. Only a theory.
rgds
Hi Troy
There does not seem to be a lot of give in the system with that style of anchor.
If its stuck in the reef then somethings got to give.
I reckon I'd be pleased it was the line and not the bowsprit. I certainly would never tie off from the stern, way too dangerous in the open sea situation.
Unless you have some sort of religious conviction that requires you use the pictured style of anchor why not try a standard reef pick that is designed to let go by bending rather than trying to break up the reef?
The length of the chain (about equal to the boat length, yours could be 30 % too short) and the weight of the chain keeps the line down that holds the boat with line up to 3 times the depth of the water. A longer line also does seem to help retrieve by giving a good change of direction to the up pull when you take of at 30 to 45 degrees to lift it.
My experience with a 6.2 m hull and regular anchoring in 120 to 150 ft has all been painless to date and as I often do it solo. I hope it stays that way. There is no way that solo, I could or would want to haul my reef anchor plus 7 m of chain plus 200 to 250 ft of line over the bow!!
Hope it works out for you
Chimo GOM
What could go wrong.......................
What about simply cutting and slotting a peice of hose and and attaching it over the offending sharp areas?
Yeah cut the side wall out of a tyre, big enough to fit in the channel and extend past the cutting edge.
Then remove only 1 bolt holding the bow roller sprit bracket on, you might need longer one to replace.
Drill a hole in the rubber secure that down with a washer back in to the bow sprit.
Hopefully that will hold the rubber in place, and stop the chain with that rattling noise as well.
Done something similar to the bow sprit of mine but only to cover the gel coat from scratches from the anchor chain.
A marriage licence should be like your fishing licence!
Expires every year and you get a 3 day pass when you go interstate.
I would say you are lucky it has cut the rope before something busts. I'm with chimo. Standard pick is designed to bend before anything else does.
I'd see if a different anchor solves the problem.
Jim
Troy, by the looks of it your using 12 mm rope which should easily do the job on your rig. 12 mm should nearly pull the bow under before the rope breaks.
That front roller is deffently a problem and no doubt is cutting the rope. I had the same one on my boat, there a cheap crappy roller system and i demolished mine on the first few trips. In fact it riped clean off and the plastic roller exploded into pieces. Get rid of it and get a plate boat builder to make you up a proper roller with nice rounded edges, that way the problems solved with it cutting rope.
As for the mooloolaba pick, they work just fine unless your anchoring on heavy bottom whereby youll need to setup the chain on the front of the pick with a break away system on the back (usually zip tied).
Dont worry about the wieght of the anchor a 16lb is ok, usually the biggest problem is whether the float will lift the wieght of the anchor and chain. Its a bugger having to use two floats as they tend to twist and tangle.
And as mentioned already never tie the rope at the stern unless you intend to swim home...foxy
well said dave i agree
never tie rope on stern
unless you like swimming
pete
Thanks Dave, Pete and others
I have upgraded to inflateable anchor ball, I found the foam ball would float about a metre below the surface under the load of the anchor and chain! I think a heavy duty bow roller is the way to go as this is my second one and bent easily. Any ideas where to get one? Yes I use the break away system with the cable ties. Last lost anchor on the Banks, I just could not budge, I can only put down to the chain becoming jammed, I tried driving off in in every direction before rope broke, I don't know what would of saved that one?
Cheers Troy.
also make sure you are driving off in a big sweeping arch - the removal of the anchor is a combo of the flotation of the ball and the thrust of the boat, there should be a big bow in the rope
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