GETTING OFF THE TRAILER

[ON-THE-CHEW]

I own a Yalta 555, I have had it since new and has become a real pain in the a*@# to push off the trailer. I have noticed it is sitting right down on the centre rollers, a couple of them to the point it has put a groove into it. Would this be the reason it is getting so hard to push off? If I drop these centre rollers so the boat is just touching them and is supported mainly by the side rollers will this fix the problem?

Andrew

[finga64]

looks like all the rollers etc need an adjustment and yep, it may be why it's hard to get off the trailer.
When the boats off next just see if any of the rollers are siezed up.
It's a bugger when the boat doesn't want to get off.

[griz066]

Just be carefull all the weight of the boat MUST be on the keel rollers the side rollers are for support only

[jimbo1]

I think you will find that taking a bit of pressure off the centre rollers will do the job. And I wouldnt be too concerned about having all the weight on the centre rollers, if it was so important they wouldnt make trailers without them. As long as the weight is evenly distributed on all rollers and sits level you cant do much more.
James

[Chimo]

On The Chew

Agree with jimbo 1. If boats are to roll off and on easily the weight needs to be spread evenly across all the rollers on the trailer. The boat should roll off by itself on the ramp if the thing is set up correctly; after you have relaeased of course!

It is less than logical to put all the weight on 5 or 6 rollers along the keel and little or none on al the others on the trailer.

If the keel rollers have grooves in them from the keel there is a damn good reason for it. [smiley=angry.gif] Replace them, reajust the rollers on the trailer so that they can all do their job.

Sounds like you have another job to do......

Cheers

Chimo

[Grand_Marlin]

Jeez Fellas, come on

All this advice, and you dont even know what configuration the side multi rollers are... a good way to damage Andrew's Hull if you don't know what you are on about.

Grizz is spot on .... weight must be on the keel rollers, and the side multis are for support only.

The reason the rollers are grooved, is because the manufacturers use cadmium plated roller pins which rust in no time and sieze solid in the roller.

When you push the boat, it is trying to turn the metal pin in the roller bracket, rather than the roller turning on the pin.

So, in practice what happens is, the boat is skull dragged over the rollers which aren't turning - therefore cutting grooves in the rollers.

Andrew, when you replace them, use the red polyurethane rollers for fibreglass (blue are for alloy and the black rubber ones are just cheap crap)

I mount my clients rollers on 316 stainless pins and then you dont have any more problem - ever. (Just keep them clean)

Never grease roller pins as they trap salt water ... when the water dries it leaves salt, which mixes with the grease ---- and there you have instant cutting compound.

Spray the pins with silicone spray.

If you need a hand to change them and re adjust the rollers, feel free to give me a yell.

Cheers

Pete (Valet Boat Services)

[newchum]

i have haines v19r and it was a cow to get off even driveing off. my mate adjusted all the rollers so the bow was higher than the stern. now when i launch i start up and select foward so i can undo my safety chain,put it in neutral and it takes off backwards.

[Fast_Freddie]

Jeez Fellas, come on

All this advice, and you dont even know what configuration the side multi rollers are... a good way to damage Andrew's Hull if you don't know what you are on about.

Grizz is spot on .... weight must be on the keel rollers, and the side multis are for support only.

The reason the rollers are grooved, is because the manufacturers use cadmium plated roller pins which rust in no time and sieze solid in the roller.

When you push the boat, it is trying to turn the metal pin in the roller bracket, rather than the roller turning on the pin.

So, in practice what happens is, the boat is skull dragged over the rollers which aren't turning - therefore cutting grooves in the rollers.

Andrew, when you replace them, use the red polyurethane rollers for fibreglass (blue are for alloy and the black rubber ones are just cheap crap)

I mount my clients rollers on 316 stainless pins and then you dont have any more problem - ever. (Just keep them clean)

Never grease roller pins as they trap salt water ... when the water dries it leaves salt, which mixes with the grease ---- and there you have instant cutting compound.

Spray the pins with silicone spray.

If you need a hand to change them and re adjust the rollers, feel free to give me a yell.

Cheers

Pete (Valet Boat Services)

Hey Pete,
I recently bought a 195 Allison (1992 vintage) and the trailer doesn't have keel rollers.
There is fittings on the trailer so I can fit them and I think I will because I want to pull the boat fair distances up the highway and it just bothers me that there is nothing supporting the keel.
Is my thinking right?

Fred

[SeaSaw]

I have been told many times that fibreglass boats are Ok without keel rollers as long as it has plenty of side multi's. On the other hand, ally boats must be supported by the keel and the side rolers are just for stability. Is this right or was this bad advice I got ????

Mark

[flotsom]

there is nothing wrong with load sharing weight from keel to side support a little, this is to prevent keel rollors pins bending, if every glass boat had full weight on keel rollors none would come off as they all would bend.

rule of thumb, about 60% keel, 40% side support, keep keel rollors straight and greased, also have seen some awkward keels on some boats that the keel does not go all the way to the back of the boat, like the cox craft rum runner. if this is the case you need split rear rollors so keel can go wright through.

[Chimo]

Having owned both Al and FRP boats the advice I have been given by both AL and FRP boat manufacturers and trailer manufacturers is to share the load between all the rollers on the trailer ie both keel and side support rollers.

Why would the manufacturer eg Seafarer offer a 5 year hull warranty if the boat is on a Tinka trailer that is designed to carry the weight evenly spread over all rollers and less (1 year I believe) on any other trailer?

The Al boat manufacturer told me face to face to get under the boat and adjust each roller so they all were equally hard to turn. This was on a trailer fitted with 29 rollers! Never wore a groove in any of them in 9 years and the boat always fell off when uncoupled.

None of this is my idea, its what boat and trailer makers have told me over years of boating.

If all we needed were rollers along the keel wouldn't all boat and trailer manufacturers justl be doing that?

Personally I don't think its a great idea to use grease or any lubricant on roller pins as if it traps dust and water (salt) there will be rust etc eventually. I used to just wash the salt off after use.

I like the stainless pin idea tho.

Anyway thats my GOM experience

Happy trailering!!!

Cheers

Chimo

l

[PADDLES]

i've got a redco tinka trailer with a fibreglass boat on it and it doesn't have any keel rollers either. it's just got sets of 2 rollers that are shaped like a 't' and pivot in the centre.

[Grand_Marlin]

G'day Fast Freddie,

If your trailer is set up with lots of quad (sets of 4) multis, then it is fine - as it creates a cradle effect to support the hull... just as long as it is adjusted properly.

Keel rollers on these trailers can sometimes upset the balance of the boat as it comes on / off the trailer.
But in saying this, any extra support cant hurt anything.

SeaSaw, you have it right - you have been given the right advice... it is the same theory with glass boats and ally, just that ally (especially pressed ally tinnies) are more exposed to the problem as they are thin and flex a lot more if exposed to "point loading" pressure.

Point loading is the pressure created in one spot that carries or transfers any weight.
In this case, the top say 10mm of the multi roller carries all the weight.
In a car the bottom say 25mm of the tyre transfers the weight to the ground.
It is not evenly distributed over the whole tyre or multi roller, so in effect it is like the hull is sitting on a chock of rubber that is 10mm wide and 50mm long.

Then bounce it on these small support points as you drive up the road, and you have a recipe for destruction.

Another way to look at it is if you had a piece of thin cardboard like a manilla folder to simulate the hull of a boat.

If you balance this on one finger, the pressure is "point loaded" at the end of your finger, which causes the folder to stress, flex and bend (just like a single or twin multi roller) as it doesnt spread the load properly.

If you spread your hand or both hands out, but still using your fingertips for support, the folder retains its shape and doesnt bend, as it is well supported (like a series of quad multis)

If you were to balance the centre of the folder on a piece if 25mm wide timber (simulating keel rollers) and support it with all your fingertips on each side - look how string and supportive it makes it.

NOTE: We were originally talking about On The Chew's trailer which has keel rollers and side support multis, which I assume would only be the twin (2) multis per cross member.

This is the case with most keel rollered trailers.

If you take the weight on these twin multis, you put "point loading" pressure on the hull which will flex and ultimately crack or deform the hull.

This is why Seafarer boats only offer a 5 year warranty on their own designed trailers, as they were sick to death of boats coming back with hull problems from inappropriate trailers / adjustments by dealers that had no idea, or just wanted to save money to clinch a deal.

Flotsam,

I dont know where you get your ideas from, but what garbage.

If your trailer is bending pins it isnt designed correctly, and has inferior products on it.

If it does:
Change to stainless pins, they are stronger;
Use the double keel roller brackets to spread the load.
Change up to 20mm (3/4 inch) pins from the standard 16mm (5/8) pins if needed.

Putting load on side rollers is ok if the points above are adhered to - re: point loading, but the strongest part of the boat will always be the keel.
Makes sense to support it.
If you need a ratio - I would say 90% keel 10 % side.

Greasing rollers.... please read my last post.

Horses for courses with the keel problem, but the 555 Yalta has a flat keel right to the end and this is the boat we are trying to fix the problem for.

I set this trailer up for a client ... the boat ran on and off the trailer with ease.
We opted for teflon slide side supports instead of multis to give the boat a better self centering attitude, and maintain its balance on the way up the trailer (Freddie, this is the balance I was talking about that multis and keel rollers together can upset)

Boat didnt fall over,
Boat didnt stick on trailer,
Self centred every time
never bent pins, even weighing in at 4+ tonne.

Cheers

Pete

[Grand_Marlin]

trailer

[griz066]

rule of thumb, about 60% keel, 40% side support, keep keel rollors straight and greased,

[smiley=wut.gif] This is BS 100% on keel rollers side support is just that support and NO grease.

Get it right before you advise others [smiley=bigcry.gif]