I've just seen a write up in a mag on a paint aimed at boats & trailers to stop rusting... Thought I'd post it up for anyone looking for that sort of thing
It's an American product called "POR-15". They claim it stops rust completely.
It's being imported by "Permanent Painted Coatings" (Ph: 1800 643 229), and comes in black, grey or silver.
Wow sounds pretty impressive would be good on trailers if claims are true.
I got some paint in the garage that my spraypainter mate gave to me years ago.He was spraying submarines for the navy back then in perth,this stuff is good for 10 years on a sub .Its a rustkiller a primer and paint all in one
George
its japanese methinks
At Heaven's gate a soldier stood,
his story ready to tell,
St Peter said, 'no need my son all is understood,
Go right in cos you've already served your time in Hell'
It sounds just like McDonnalds sweet & sour sauce
That would have being the Collins class submarines nothing but trouble those subs.
POR 15 ,is not UV stable,and is an undercoat only.Needs a top coat
David
Ah see.. I knew the smart people on this site would know...
I just saw the ad, and thought I'd whack it up.
Pete - Does that make the trailer a McNugget?
Originally Posted by Fishin_Dan
Nah Dan, thats just silly
Cheers
Pete
Isnt that what killrust's supposed to do?
When you look at coatings on trailers, you have 2 types.
Protective coatings - being paints like 2 pac, and any other coating that is desiged to stop the metal coming into contact with a corrosive atmosphere ... in our case, salt water and air.
Sacrificial Coatings - ie Galvanising - either ot dipped or spray on cold gal.
These coatings are designed to eat away slowly when exposed to a corrosive atmosphere, and therefore protect the meatal structure.
This is achieved by using two metals that are a fair way apart on what they call the reactivity series of metals.
In our case we have steel (Iron) and Galvanising (Zinc)
The zinc is higher in the reactivity series of metals, so therefore it corrodes before the steel in your trailer does, and hence protects the steel.
This is the same theory for annodes on motors and moored boats, albeit you have to balance the electrical charge your boat emits with the amount of anodes.... but thats another story.
... so is rust conversion....
Cheers
Professor Pete [smiley=scholar.gif]
So Pete,
I have a patch of surface(?) rust appearing on one or two cross-bars on my trailer, what do you suggest I do?
Sand it then Killrust it then Cold Gal it?
[smiley=worried2.gif]
Fred
I have same problem as you Fast Freddie - I'll wait for post from Professor Pete also for some good advice!
When we rebuilt the landrover and had the chassis blasted. The boys put a coating on it that's as hard as buggery. We even had a lot of trouble removing it with a file to put the rear shackle rubbers in.
It's been up and down the beach at Evans Head now for the last 5 years and NO sign of corrosion or chips or anything else that looks nasty.
The sandblaster guys spray it on trawler decks and guarentee it for 10 years on the trawlers.
Good stuff
More info call the sandblaster mob in Cassino (without the 2 S's, damm spam filters).
Can't remember their names but can find out of my old Dad
Hey fast Freddy, treat the rust, then the cold gal then whatever else
Hey Pete, how about a talk on electron transfer and the periodic table??
Pete, Maybe you should spend less time on being the professor and more time on that cat...... we are all waiting to see it finished!!
Sure Finga, no problem ... and we can discuss balancing ionic equations with particular reference to oxidation / reduction (redox) reactions in steel (Iron - Fe).... how it forms Iron Oxide (Rust Fe2O3) and how Killrust uses liquid hydrocarbons to convert, or reduce Fe2O3 to a useable metal compond.
Now, for the part, we will assume steel is pure iron without impurities (which it isnt in the real world)
Fast Freddie and Fishbait...
Use a brass wire brush to rub back any loose surface scale .... if it is really bad, use a grinder ... but only if it is heavily rusted with badly flaking scale.
Use Killrust rust eeter over the affected areas.
It doesnt hurt if you go over the edges onto the existing galvanising a little.
The best product around for a cold gal is:
Silver Zinc (Silver Grade)
Manufactured by the Wholesale Chemical Company at Acacia Ridge.
Phone (07) 3276 1169
This stuff is brilliant, and it is a silver sheen the same as a new trailer ... not the grey ordinary looking cold gal.
Give them a call and ask for your local seller, or I can supply it for you if you like.
I use this stuff straight over the rust eeter, and havent had any rust "bleed" back through the cold gal (unlike other cold gals that let the rust straight through it)
Cheers ....
Professor Pete
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote