Cooling System Warning Alarm

[station-rat]

Smelly
The 15 degrees is too much, you had better have a look as to y it has so much movement
Station-rat

[Roughasguts]

How does the water come through the pump anyway?

There will be a hole under the impellor, that is basically water level.

Impellor spins with shaft when the motor is running, this creates a low pressure area under the impellor, The pump acts like a centrifuge the vanes are more open by the intake hole, and then due to the shape of the housing the vanes compress slightly compressing the water causing a higher pressure, just where your pipe comming out of the housing is, this pumps it up in to your engine.

[Smelly]

DOuble checked - key is in correct position.

There are two(2) housings -
1) Inner - aluminium alloy of some sort which hugs the vanes
2) Outer - plastic which screws into gearcase flange

THe inner one is fairly tight..

Specs of spline? Tried 21mm and 20mm sockets - 20mm socket too small, 21mm socket - too big.

Smelly

[Smelly]

Can't use drill - as no socket will fit the spline - dont knwo what else to use...

[Smelly]

OK - I am off to dealer where i bought water pump from..long drive.

he will look at it and hopefully set us all straight!!

Back in 2 hours or so..

Smelly

[station-rat]

Smelly
What about clamping some plastic hose to the drive shaft( hose clamps) and to a socket extension that you can fit into a drill chuck, and give it a spin that way
Station-rat

[Smelly]

Back from Dealer! Here is the G O......!

1) Dealer says it is normal design for impellor to not rotate in first half turn of shaft as drive key moves slightly to lock impellor to drive shaft..nothing wrong with water pump.

2) Water pump also tested with leg out - works fine...

3) I commented to them that water comes out of the exhaust ports - they say this water comes post thermostats - so water must be getting in there....

4) THey too are puzzled as to why heads are still cooking without water pump discharge indicator working (no pee hole)..even though I was able to push water up through pipe with garden hose - and then out through pee hole and cylidner walls...


So RAT/BLAZE - I have done what you have asked - no problems.

What now???

Smelly

[wayneoro]

yes spark plugs after putting it back togeather using old head gasket that looked v good plus new gaskets on on waterjacket plate just greased it ec side started motor up and water came out of ec bottom plug pulled heads off nothing amiss i could see spayed it with crc ?

[station-rat]

Smelly
I don't know about 1/2 a turn before the drive key takes up the slack????????
If the water pump works fine, and the water tube delivers water to the pee hole and both cylinders
then
No chance that the head gasket is leaking to pressurise the water gallery and force the water out???
There has to be a problem, just a mater of finding what.
Blaze ---your thoughts


Wayneoro
Why did you pull the heads???

Station-rat

[Roughasguts]

Wayne, you can't use your old head gaskett, unless it's copper and then only if you heat it up with a blow torch, then throw it in cold water.
What that does is fatten it up again so it will squash back down and seat.
(it's Called anealing)

But your head gasket she's no good and already squashed flat, you could get away with using goo to fill around where the gaskett ain't any good, or just get a new one.

But this is why I use goo on head gasketts, with water jackets that blocks under a lot of pressure with hot water, explosions and gasses, you never know when it might fail.

Mate now wipe the bores with two stroke oil, and run the pistons up and down.

[wayneoro]

cheers guts i put grease on the gaskets the johno manual says put goo on everything but the guys helping smelly and me said dont put anything will wipe grease off

[Roughasguts]

So smelly, you run a bit of wipper snipper line through your pee hole or tell tale. see where it goes or comes out off.

But sorry smelly never thought right from the start you had a water pump problem. But that happens when you dive deeper in to motor and repair things that don't need repairing, all it does is open up more possibilities.

What to do now put the leg back on, then head gasketts thermostats and modified poppetts, Run the motor in a tub of water or boat ramp.

It should be a goer.

[Roughasguts]

Wayne, I guess you run youe engine on fresh water ? NOT SALT ?

Here is my concern your crank bearings have been exposed to rust now,
So mix up a quantity of petrol and 2 stroke oil around 50/50 and flood your crank case with it, then turn your motor over many times to try and wash the water out of them bearings.

You might need to put the petrol mix down past the slides of the top carbys for the intake side (crank) to get the benefit of flooding with oil.

Then keep turning it over 2 or 3 times a day until your actually re assembled and have given it a run to dry the motor out.

Bad luck mate, don't worry mistakes I wrote the book and done all the wrong things even twice before I learnt the way not to do it.

[Roughasguts]

Oooops I mean turn the motor over by Hand. socket on fly wheel, Don't want sparks and fuel mate.

[FNQCairns]

Gut's is pretty much on the money here Wayne, you need to get as much of that water out like yesterday, here is an alternate method.

Zip tie your throttle full open at the carbs, remove sparkplugs, KILLSWITCH ON or another method of isolating ignition, grab a spray bottle full of tcw3 only, turn the engine over on the starter and spray the buggery down each carb LOTS and LOTS, you cannot use too much, if the tcw-3 starts blowing out the plug holes and running out of the prop hub leaving a big mess-good!. This will scavange all the water from within the crank area and bearings as well as everywhere else.

Then as quick as you can get new head gaskets and build back up and run, The gasket sealing compound that the manuals speak about is not automotive gasket goo! it is a special form of gasket sealer, these two substances have very little in common in application.

cheers and good luck fnq