Cooling System Warning Alarm

[Smelly]

Next steps?

[wayneoro]

hi smelly take the leg off i guess

[Smelly]

go for it - repalce impleeor too!

just done it a second time (5mins ago) because I have no gear engagement - see other thread if could offer some advice..?

[wayneoro]

ok mate

[wayneoro]

ok put the leg off in the too hard basket i removed plate and exposed piston heads plenty black carbon on piston heads so spayed with super tune slowly coming off the water chanels around pistons had sand in them cleaned that up the bore is smooth the gaskets as new maybe i didnt do any damage o/heating it a few times any tips please wayne

[Chimo]

Wayne

I see your difficulty with respect to the geopraphy of the location.

Have heard similar from others in that neck of woods.

There must be enough work there to get a mobile guy to visit and do a mess of work on your and other motors in the area at the same time.

Maybe its like Al welders, no one wants to live beyond the "tram tracks" and do that either.

Sorry cannot help with your repair over the computer, all I'd suggest is that you make sure the bore doesn't get rusty while your doing your sand mining.

Hope it turns out OK

Cheers

Chimo

[Smelly]

Hi Guys.

Yes - it's on again....

I promised I woudl report back to you the first time I take my boat out for a trip...

DISMAL FAILURE - AGAIN! >

The gears engaged and we actually travelled 4m until that dreaded Warning Siren came on again...

YES - Both heads are still cooking (tested with touch as well)...

What to do guys...??

I know some of you are probably saying dump it and buy new but really cannot afford $10k worth of donk right now...

I want to persist with this donk and get it up to scratch...

Obviously I fkd up initially when I bought the thing - and relying on the qualified/expreienced boat inspector to provide me guidance upon sale of boat 12 months ago..

Once again, I have not yet taken it out once... due to storage and 'doing it up'..over this time..

Yes, water was spitting out of exhasut and indicator..

THoughts?

Smelly

[blaze]

take that bloody leg off again mate.
submerge the leg in a container of water and turn the gearbox drive shaft (splined shaft) with a 18/24volt baterry drill. You only need to have it submerged so the water pick up is covered. There is a few ways to hook a drill up to the shaft. With small shaft it can be done by putting the drill directly onto the shaft. Another way is to put the right size deep socket onto the splines and then cut the drive end off a socket extension and put into the drill.
If you can carry out this test you will get a constant flow of water at a slow speed as the pump is a displacememt type pump, this flow of water will/should be free of air bubbles.
cheers
blaze
ps
looks like I will be over your way in feb for a little while, doubt you can wait that long.

[Smelly]

Thanks Blaze.

Why do I need to perform this test after I have just taken boat down to ramp and ran it in ocean?

After stat/water pump kit replaced, I still get overheating - why?

BM - You mentioned on 11/12/06:
"Re the sensors, I would wait till you have it back together again and running. As long as you know the impeller/pump is good, there are no restrictions in the water galleries and your thermos are new then run it, check its temp and disregard the warning tone..."

All this checked out and when I ran it, the warning tone came on - I stopped baot and back home I went...Should I have ignored this warning tone and why?

Smelly

[FNQCairns]

Hi smelly sad news but glad to hear you will persist, personally if it were me I would assume the leg/pump was OK in the mean time, pull the thermostats and retest identical to your last failure, if a negative result pull the heads and replace the headgaskets but also include a measure of how warped they are before replacing, I would also clean all the galleries manually as best I can, sometimes a precautionary head replacement can be a good idea with old saltwater donks, I plan to do it soon on a 16 year old engine I just bought.

Apart from a tach, the most important guage on a boat is the water pressure guage, consider one of these in your future sometime.

As an option on next launch: Smelly another thing to think about is when idling all the time you have bugger all water pressure to punch through the head and clear minor blockages or airlocks consider warming the engine for 20 seconds then punching it up to 40kph for 50-100m then back down to idle as you head back to ramp (pretend you have a skier). But only do this if you feel sure you can be on top of it overheating and will shut down before it does.
The above paragraph sounds rough and it is a bit, although your engine is not new any more and the above practice can and has worked in the past, but it needes to be done with due caution.

cheers fnq

[FNQCairns]

Smelly just read the abovedont disregard the tone unless you have another backup way of assuming temperature, I understand what BM is on about and it happens but ATM the tone is all that stands between you and a new engine or around $2500 worth of damage.

Dont like spending other peoples money although invest in one of these, very cheap as a boating bit and will give you some REAL data to work with. I have one in my diesel 4wd and it is a good unit, want one for the boat now although it is about as waterproof as a piece of cardboard - looking at how to get around it.


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CAR-ENGINE-OV...QQcmdZViewItem

[blaze]

Hi
for me, when I have a problem like you are having I tend to go right back to square one, start all over again and work my way right through the system, hence the pump check. Can you garentee that the pump has a good flow even with a new impellor. Is there a hair line crack in the pickup area etc etc.
Nq is also giving good advice
blaze

[FNQCairns]

Yeah Blaze there is no bad advice and it is almost impossible to finger a cause that would not be a guess from the computer without hard data, at least pulling the leg would be a rather casual affair now smelly can start charging for his services soon.

Low speed overheats will be pump, thermostats or blockages and the pump may still seem to pump.

Highspeed overheats will be thermos or blockages but the pump may still be very good.

A blown head gasket can cause any symptom!

cheers fnq

[FNQCairns]

Wayne missed your post above, where are you up to now? any Joy?

cheers fnq

[Roughasguts]

I would leave the leg on and assume it is pumping properly.
But I would remove the thermostat housing, and have a think about drilling a small hole in, or filling a few slots around the poppet valve.

I reckon this be the problem with the over heating.
So Smelly I would for a very start remove the poppet valves and take it for a run see what happens, sure your motor will run cold, but it will eliminate or prove the cause of the over heating.

Then if proven to run okay,start modifying the poppet valves, so they give some flow and circulation arond the block, I don't think you have any, within the the engine where you need it.