Cooling System Warning Alarm

[Chimo]

HI RAG Smelly et al

Clever idea the bins

If your not into all the fiddling, a half blue or black plastic 200 lt drum ex stock and station or horse feed place for about $20 to $25 either for a full one (too big) or a half same cost to cover the cost of their labour cutting it with or without the RAG fitting is quicker. I like the RAG fittings tho, Very smick>

Cheers
Chimo

Back from pimp test run

[Smelly]

OK -

Test carried out with drum - thanks GUTS.

1) Cleaned plugs and ensured correct gap.

2) Started without plugs and kill switch off for 15secs

3) Started with plugs/kill switch on

4) Ran OK (in slow idle) with water coming out of exhaust ports/indicator

5) Felt both heads and hotted up after about 1min of running

6) Kept running with kick in throttle

7) Heads seemed to stay at same temp (no guage however)

8) Warning siren not come on at all

9) Shut engine down

10) Await your feedback


Questions :

How do i tell if stats are working?
Is it normal for heads to heat up without boat moving under throttle, etc..?


Smelly

[Roughasguts]

Well done sounds good Smelly,
Yep heads will heat up as soon as engine running, doesn't have to be in the water with the boat moving.

Mate if you have cold water coming out the tell tale, nice even steam and
warm water coming out the exhaust vent that can sputter and spray but that's what it is suposed to do.

Now run it at 1000 rpm, and keep an eye on temps and water flow.
If okay for a couple of mins's run to 1500 Rpm, but carefull here as the motor can pick up rev's pretty quickly, Typical 2 banger, so stand by the warm up lever until your confident rev's don't pick up quickly.

Now I still think you need a link, and sync as per FNQ, advise before you run it out in the ocean.

[Roughasguts]

Heres another tip for future referance re: water pump.

Run the motor in your tank at 1500 Rpm, and catch the water coming out the tell tale over a 30 second period.

Measure how much water that was in 30 seconds, then write that down on your garage wall for future referance.

I use a empty beer bottle there always at hand in the garage or out in the boat. eg: how many seconds to fill on of those at a set Rpm.

In a couple of years you can use these figures as a bench mark for what a new pump will push out, and compare the figures to the used pump in case you ever have doughts about it working properly.

[Smelly]

The motor sound really beefy when i kick the revs in.

Unfortuantley, I do not have a tacho - so unable to tell exactly what revs are doing..soultion?

What is typical 2 banger?

Will the warning siren go quicker if i leave engine at idle for a long time?

NExt step - where/how do i locate a Master Service technician to perform the link and sync in the POint Cook area of Melbourne?

How can i tell if the stats are working properly?

Can anyone recommend a good additive in water drum to leech through system and flush out remaining salt/crud build up?


Smelly

[Smelly]

godo tip on the water flow GUTYS

[Roughasguts]

Oh yeah don't run the engine in gear when using the flush tank.

Your going to get a big wall of water come out the tank, and may damage your prop. Okay to do it with a 5 Hp but not something that size.

[Roughasguts]

The water siren should never come on but has an incresed chance at idle compared to 1000 Rpm.

A typical or any 2 stroke will get to a certain rev range, and then run away with the rev's unless under load.

For example the rev's may slowly increase by them selves to around 2500 Rpm, and then with in a few seconds race up to 6000 Rpm and beyond. not advisable at all.

Thermostats must be opening Smelly as the motor is not getting any hotter, if they were closed she would get hotter and then sound the siren

[Smelly]

THanks GUTS.

Where/how do i locate a Master Service technician to perform the link and sync in the POint Cook area of Melbourne?

Can anyone recommend a good additive in water drum to leech through system and flush out remaining salt/crud build up?

What do I need to do/get to mointor RPM on my rig?

Smelly

[Roughasguts]

Don't know about the master Tech Smelly in your area but BM is from around there maybe he can help.

If your planing on keeping that boat for a while I do sugest a couple of gauges you should buy.

First a tacho, then a water temp gauge, and maybe a water pressure gauge. About 300 bucks all up.

You can get them from boating places Bias, Etc and are easy to install, compared to what you just did anyway.

As for any thing to disolve the salt build up, best thing is fresh warm water, the motor in the tank will take care of warming it up and the tanks un salted water will take care of the rest.

Also there will be 2 stroke oil from running your motor so that will give the internals a nice protective coating.

There is stuff called salt away, but I never used it so can't say how effective it would be.

[Chimo]

Hi Smelly

Been reading your good news and pleased for you that things seem to have finally been sorted out.

Al sounds good and if you just let the motor idle as slow as it will go it will keep pumping and give things a good flush without overheating. Do the hand on both heads sides of motor al the while just to be sure till we all get our confidence back!!!

You ought to do the motor in the barrel / tub or whatever each time you use it in salt water and just by doing it for long enough to ensure the thermostats open you will flush the galleries and get salty water out. In thirty years I,ve only ever used fresh wateras I was never sure about the possible side effects of the additives over time.

Not sure about the level of your water restrictions but recycling is worth while. I use all our washing machine water for garden and i use the 1/2 200lt drum to wash and run my 9.9 and my 2.3 or whatever after salt water.

If you have a spare 12 v battery you too can set up a Johnson or similar bilge pump with a float switch to pump out thru 3/4 sullage pipe with a pope low pressure round sprinkler. Green lawn for years so far thanks to washing clothes. Oops I digress

Re the OMC / BRP Master Technician , great move on your part. Maybe some Ausfishers down Point Cook or surrounds can recommend someone.

If you like I could also ask my guy if he knows somone down there cause its likely they would know each other going to tech upgrade courses as these well qualified guys do.

What about stating a thread in both the wanted and the boating section and see what comes.

Short of a tacho all you have is your ear.

Slow idle should be about 600 to 800 for yours I think and just a tad more will get you 1500 listen

Dont rev it without a load but thats been said before I think.

So in the end did the tell tale did throw water out too? Was there some crud in there?

Once again its been a long journey and we have all learned as we went on it. Good on you for having a go.

Cheers

Chimo

[Chimo]

Hey RAG

We seem to be on the same wave-length again. Beauty

Chimo

[Smelly]

Chimo - could you please follow up on your offer to locate a OMC / BRP Master Technician in the Point Cook (West) Area of Melbourne and post it on this thread?

Otherwise I do not know how to look one up in the yellow pages..

I am still a bit weary on the hot heads I felt today though - after idle..

I hope this will disappear when i take boat for a spin..

Attached is a photo of myself taken earlier this year in POrt Hedland WA - Bit of a humerous conclusion on this thread - to kepp Wayne happy at least.

Well - this is the end I guess (albeit until I take boat for a spin after links inspection). I will report back after my first spin and let u know how I went..

I have had fun and learnt alot in this journey...and I wish to thank all of you who participated. I am sure others will benefit when they are faced with similar issues..

Happy new year!

Smelly

[FNQCairns]

Some good advice above.

RE the advance timing, the bottom line here is YOU know what was touched/altered I cannot, if you in any way altered the length of that rod that terminates under the flywheel or if you changed the stop on that bolt the timing plate slides to a stop on at around half throttle (cannot see why you would have touched it) you are pretty safe to go as the rest will relate mostly to carb opening synchronization on the idle jets and also maximum throttle at the carb linkages.

So if you know what you did touch/change and these important above bits have been left alone you should be good to go as before the entire problem, but again thats your call as you know what you did.

If you do decide to drive it idle along at any RPM that makes displacement speeds for 10 minutes or so (check heads) then blat up to the plane for 100m then back down to displacement speeds or idle (check heads again) if no problems do a longer blat and check again until you are confident, then do whatever you like with hand on head checks every now and then for piece of mind.

The popets will need to open at the higher end of your speed range (like last 1/3) so if you do decide to test them this is where in probability any previous timing change can cause problems also - just so you know.

Sounds like a goer, if this were a job handed back to a customer by a mechanic he would just say drive it as usual, your motor is at this same stage so you could 'just drive it' if you like. I wouldn't cause like you I dont want to go back spanner and cash in hand where a problem could have been avoided.

Home and hosed if both heads were equal in temp and they heated up fast then maintained constant temp, bloody seaweed threw a spanner in the works, clear water ahead .

cheers fnq

[Smelly]

Thansk fo reverything FNQ.

Any ideas how I can locate a OMC / BRP Master Technician in the Point Cook (West) Area of Melbourne ?


Will keep u posted...

Smelly