Cooling System Warning Alarm

[Smelly]

OOPS! FNQ - I used gasket goo for all my gaskets thus far (heads, water jackets, thermo and water pump) - what sht have i put in now???

Just pulle dmy plugs - all four have a black residue on the tip. no appraent trace of moisture..

Smelly

[Smelly]

To confirm :

Do I need to have the leg in water bath to air out/cleanse cylinders? (as you turn motor over with kill switch off, warm up lever up and plugs out)

Smelly

[Chimo]

FNQ

Your talking poppets opening I guess?

On my later 115s the thermostsats have little poppets in the centre of the thermostat and the entire thermostat moves back against the spring presssure as the water pressure increases internally.

In my motors I have shortened the springs by crimping two coils of the spring to reduce spring tension to get easier thermostat movement back. Also fitted scoop lower screens that also force more water in as speed increases and reduces even further the work required by the impeller which only does its thing now at very low revs when cooling requirements are lowest.

Interesting challange to improve OB cooling so my motors dont get SO hot any more.

Chimo


Pimp boat tomorrow!!!

[Chimo]

Smelly

Drown the impeller in water before turning to increase it life span.

FNQ suggested you can stuff it in 30 seconds if you run it dry and it heats up. So YES water in drum first would be best.

Chimo

[FNQCairns]

Smelly dont worry about the gasket goo ,now if you had just finished 100 motors with goo expect a few to come back with goo related conserns- some of those will be costly to put right.

Strictly no the motor turns over at around 200rpm I think and an impeller can handle that but it's always nice to know there is water helping to keep friction down so best to use water.

Chimo I read through your postings and thought you had some pretty natty ideas worth following up! the bloody manufacturers think every engine they sell stays 'as sold' for it's entire usefull life, it's worth thinking outside the square.

cheers fnq

[Roughasguts]

So my take on this FNQ, is this motor could do with a 6mm hole in each of the poppet valves.

From my understanding these holes would be an insurance policy for getting water up in to the block before the thermostats open, provided they open as chimo's device helped with his hot motor.

The motor sounds like it needs a mod on the cooling side of things that's for sure.

[Chimo]

RAG

The later motors have a different shaped thermostat that sits in a rubber grommet with a rough surface or in some of mine filed slots to let water flow past the thermostat to get the water flow started easily to then allow the thermstat to move back easily as second stage cooing kicks in.

Holes in Smellys could be a good safeguard tho. pitty we didnt talk about this earlier/


Chimo

[Owen]

<SNIP>
On my later 115s the thermostsats have little poppets in the centre of the thermostat and the entire thermostat moves back against the spring presssure as the water pressure increases internally.
<SNIP>
In my motors I have shortened the springs by crimping two coils of the spring to reduce spring tension to get easier thermostat movement back.
Chimo

Chimo,
Unless I'm misreading the construction of the thermostat assembly on your motor, I think your mods are superfluous. I'm a bit confused by "the entire thermostat moves back against the spring pressure "
The spring is designed to contract with heat. It does not hold the valve down merely by spring tension.
To test the correct operation of the thermostat, slip a piece of cotton into the valve by pushing it open with a screwdriver.
Then dangle the thermostat by the thread in a pot of hot water with a thermometer in it. Bring the water to the boil and the thermostat should drop off at the rated temperature as the valve opens.

cheers,
Owen

[Chimo]

Owen

You are correct, you are misreading but not the thermostat. In that you are right but in the separate spring that holds the entire thermostat in place in a rubber grommet.

The other end of the spring is captured by a screw in cap. One cap, spring and thermostat for each side of the motor on a 115 OMC Oceanpro

Easy error to make. Cross purposes I guess.

Cheers

Chimo

[FNQCairns]

Yeah possibly Guts as long as it doesn't run too cool overall by opening up somehow, IMO a little hot sometimes is preferable to a little cold all the time.

cheers fnq

[wayneoro]

guys this is good i just put my thermo back on after cleaning it my springs are on two white plastic things there are two small thermostats i used same gasket put back goo on that never hardens [careful you dont get any of that on your head smelly] was very careful not to stick the white things on the springs ran it on hose pumped good through telltale motor got warm but very little water through top exhaust ran for 10mins

[wayneoro]

guys this is good i just put my thermo back on after cleaning it my springs are on two white plastic things there are two small thermostats i used same gasket put back goo on that never hardens [careful you dont get any of that on your head smelly] was very careful not to stick the white things on the springs ran it on hose pumped good through telltale motor got warm but very little water through top exhaust ran for 10mins

[Roughasguts]

wayneoro, that's great mate it's working alright. That top exhaust is a vent and yes water comes out of it, but only when the leg is full of water not on the muffs as water runs straight down the leg and out the thru prop hub exhaust.

So that leg when full of water and engine running has to have another vent in case of water surge, (waves) Don't worry you will find it will spit then.

[Smelly]

GOod morning people - and welcome to antoher day of unknowns...

Wayne - well done on your improvements - hope you can play along..

Goo, heads, muffs, screws, plugs, vanes, holes and spit - amazing connatations to think about

OK - will plan to run engine today - first wihtout spark and then with spark.

WIll then plan to throttle up out of idle and test for more overheating..

Smelly

[Roughasguts]

Okay fella's might be time to make a run tank for your motor.
Measure up from skeg to top of water pump, write that down, then from prop to end of gearbox or cav plate, and also width in case you have a foil.

Now go to Go-Lo, they have 40 litre recycle bins at the moment for $6.49 each nice and solid. you need two

So if these measurements will contain your leg (water pump height) with one bin placed on top of the other get two.

Now buy a heap of bolts and nuts around 5mm I have used 24 nicely spaced., also some good sealer, a click in hose fitting for your hose to tap. You will also need this for draining.

Then cut out the bottom floor of one of the tubs, leaving a lip for strength.

Place that bin on top of the top rim upside down on the botttom bin.

Line the bins exactly together, and start drilling 5mm holes where you wan't the bolts, when completeted the holes clean up the plastic, seal around the join, then put the sealer on the whole way around, put in bolts. Then smooth of the sealer, and thats a nice water tight plastic easy stack bin.

Now some make life easy mods for it.
Drill a hole down one side of the lower tub bottom corner and screw in the click hose conection with sealer.

When dry hook your hose in to that for filling, disconect at the tap for draining, or just take the hose off the bottom of the tank.

Iam impatiant so I stuck a 2 inch bung in mine.

But now with water restrictions, I use the bottom hose conector, to hook up to my water blaster and wash every thing down using the old bath water from the kids bath, no shampoo day of course.

Been using it for 5 years now, nice and quiet better for the motor.