Thnaks Chimo. Advice taken on board..
I hae just got back from my session onthe motor and read your post.
In the middlel of taking the stat cover off. >Sorry.
THat middle bolt is the bummer.
BM - how do I remove this damn middle bolt from the stat cover shown in this thread?
The two other bolts are OK - just.
BM.
You quoted..."Also make sure that th eoverheat sensor isn't malfunctioning. If you switch on the key and th ealarm sounds and the engine is cold then you have a sensor problem..."
This alarm does sound in this case - shoudl I proceed to changeout sensors?
Chimo - I am currently downloading the Johnson OMC Manual... (130MB to go..)
Smelly
What are you like at drilling out and re tapping threads?
Hope not
the manual has to be a help
Good luck
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
HI CHimo.
Have not stripped bolt heads - YET.
The amount of clearnce between the cowling and bolt head is weird!
I need to knwo what tools I need to gewt that middle bolt out...
Will keep you informed..
Smelly,
Pull off the plastic horseshoe shaped cowl that attaches beneath the lower cowl. This gives you access to the powerhead bolts and also a little bit better access to the thermo bolts.
The thermo housing is a shit to get off......
If you want to save yourself some drama, unbolt the powerhead, the shift shaft, and lift the powerhead off and work on it on the bench.
Only about 8 bolts and 1 gasket and you will have an easier time.
Re the sensors, I would wait till you have it back together again and running. As long as you know the impeller/pump is good, there are no restrictions in the water galleries and your thermos are new then run it, check its temp and disregard the warning tone.
If its running well and temp is good (I don't mean take it out and thrash the shitter out of it, I mean tank test it or run it on the trailer but reversed down a local ramp) then you will need to look at a warning system failure.
Cheers,
Nicholas
Thanks BM.
I already have the two(2) side bolts loose and can get them out no probs. DO I still need to remove both powerheads? I have just removed (& put back on with new gaskets, etc.. ) powerhead to flush out water jacket and cyilnder cavity...a few hours there...
It is that middle bolt I cannot access....
How do I pull off the plastic horseshoe shaped cowl?
Just had a look - does the horseshoe cowl have four M10's?
I think from memory they are 5/16 bolts and there will probably be another 2 or 4 from inside the lower cowl.
This then gives you access to the bolts tht retain the powerhead to thje midsection.
cheers
FYI - I was abel to remove the thermostat housing - both stats look shot and will not pop in extremely hot water. time to replace?
If they wont open in bolied water then its time to replace.
Cheers
Hi Smelly
Agree with BM / Nic, replace thermostats.
What are the grommet / thermo housings like? These impact on second stage cooling as you know.
You probably need to check / sort this out too as we discussed earlier.
They are not a real dear item; if you can get to them you could look at replacing rather than modifying. I guess it is also a question of what sort of condition the rubber items in the internals of the motor are in.
Have you done the impeller too.? Might pay to check the ss plates adjacent to the impeller too?
I think I'd leave the sensors alone til its all back togeter and running , it seems that they are doing their job OK. This has also been mentioned earlier too.
Soldier on!!
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
Thanks CHimo and BM.
What sort of condition does the therm housing have ot be in to deem it in bad condition?
THe grommets appear ok but should i rpelace these as welll?
Smelly
In the later motor you would woud look at things like
Are the bore diams the same?
Have they swelled?
Are they firm or spongy?
How far in do the t-stats sit, same for both?
Have to say I'm not familiar with the specifics of your 110 but assume the principles are the same as the 115
Others may be able to add comments too
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
New water pump kit on it's way.
New tstats and grommetts on way..
Big weekend coming up for me!
ANy mor ebits on this shaft wobble ?
Should it wobble freely without the impellor locked in?
I don't htink it wobbled when the impellor was in..
Smelly,
The driveshaft is retained in the lower unit with a tapered bearing race sitting inside a cone and a shim or 2 and a pinion gear hanging below that sitting between forward and reverse gears.
With the lower unit off, the driveshaft of most outboards will have a degree fo wobble in them due to the design.
Don't forget, that when the lower unit goes back on the engine the cranshaft is where the top of the driveshaft locates and this ceases any lateral movement of the shaft.
Obviously without having the offending article in front of oneself makes it hard to assess but if shes been running well with no strange vibrations or noises or clunks or bangs then theres a better than even chance that things are ok downstairs.....
But, if your concerned then embark on journey number 3?? is it and strip the lower unit. Although you will need specific tools to do so, including heat, and it can be a difficult job.
Cheers
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