Cooling System Warning Alarm

[Smelly]

Question..

THe rubber spacer (in thermo housing) that holds the grommets shows scuff, pitted marks around the inner diameter of each grommet hole.

I have brand new grommets now, but now this scuffing on the mating surface of the rubber spacer may concern me..

THoughts before I re-install?

[Roughasguts]

You got any wet and dry, real fine stuff roll it up so it fits in side the hole and give it a light polish.

[Roughasguts]

He, He yeah you didn't need a water pump, but hows the housing if that is scratched, at the bottom of the pump, it's next to usless.

But yeah I thought it didn't sound like pump issue to me, but you wanted to play with the motor some more didn't you.

[Smelly]

You're right mate. I had to know what other suprises I may get...

If you saw the amount of salt caked onto the water jackets/head, I think you woudl do what I did too..

ANyway, what relationship does the scuffing onthe rubber spacer have to the housing at the bototm of pump?

I may take a pici.

What impact (on water flow) does the scufifng on the rubber spacer have on anything anyway?

[Roughasguts]

Airation, then cavitation = useless pump pressure.

But sounds like you had good pressure before, so i don't think it an issue.

[Smelly]

thanks fo rsticking by GUTS.

I have now polished all 4 holes - now feeling horney...

Anyway , maybe I should have got a new rubber spacer as well..?

SHould I put any lube on these holes beofre I insert these grommets? (feeling hornier)

Smelly

[Chimo]

Smelly
Re the water pump impeller (based primarily on experience with 115HPs )

Having had a number replaced, the old one always tends to look fine and I have argued with my guy as he has replaced them but the proof has been in the pudding or in this case the water flow.

When we have given the motor a run with earmuffs before and after changing the impellers the water flow with the new impeller has always been considerably better with the new one.

In the end I gave up and decided that more flow is better and I change em every service and the old one always looks fine : but it does not pump as well or at as high a pressure.

Once the grommets are in, preferably on a nice smooth unpitted surface, a la RAG; are the grommet hole diameters the same size?

This is where the issue arises of balanced water flows past each thermostat. Ie, when the thermostat gets pushed back by the water pressure (with the new impeller) against either the standard length or shortened spring after the primary cooling occurs with the thermostat itself opening which is more or less enough for engine cooling in cold water or when running at low to middling revs.

Presumably the bores of the grommets have the nice dimpled surface to get water flow happening past them?

So basically I disagree with RAG on the impeller, I suggest you change it now and at every seasonal yearly service.

Happy outboard mechanicing

Cheers

Chimo

[Roughasguts]

I would Vaseline would be the go, or some other white lithium based lube.

As for the other problem think of your Mother in law in the shower.

[Smelly]

OK guys..

problem!

THat little damn plastic key that fits into bottom of shaft.

How the hell does this stay in it's spot when lowering the impellor onto it??

[Chimo]

Speck of grease?

[Smelly]

does it lie on shaft and then impeloor is slid down?

[Roughasguts]

Yup press it in to the shaft, then slide down impellor. Don't forget those vanes in the same direction as the one you pulled out.

[Smelly]

I'm getting really pissed now!!!

of all the show stopper things - this is it.

My gasket glue is drying, the wife wants to go shopping and I cannot get this fkn thing on!

[Smelly]

Sure press into shaft. but then pops out as soon as you move impellor over it..

what gievs?

[Roughasguts]

Maybe file just a tad of the corner of the key, so the impellor gets a hold of it.

Not so horny now Huh,