Sounds like there's a pretty good story behind this post BR65 !!!Originally Posted by BR65
Care to share?
Ian
Alcohol doesn't agree with me, but i sure do enjoy the argument!!!
Of course [smiley=hammer.gif] I hadn't really thought of the springback effect. Rather than tying it to the back cleat, we run the rope past it to keep the boat straight and to be able to keep the rope well in view and away from the prop
The shortend prongs on the reef pick is something I have been doing for a few years now and find it far more effective and much easier to get a hold on the reef. With a long prong the anchor tends to "bounce"along the reef and it is harder for it to get a hold. My success rate at anchoring "first go" is much, much better.
One point of note Phil is that the said local is actually using about 6or7 meters of heavy chain. He currently uses TWO 300mm lift floats and that is still not enough!!! His total anchor system weighs around 20kilos!! (anchor and chain)
He is now looking at those large inflateable bouys to lift his anchor. This would make a fair difference in his success rate with the reef anchor. I still prefer to use a sand anchor in that area, with at least a boat length of chain. We have lost one reef anchor there, (with shortened prong and hose clamp system) and nearly lost another during times of heavy run.
Speaking to the divers who regulary recover the many anchors on that wreck, itis about 10-1 reef picks to sand anchors.
Regards, Tony
Giday Tony
Having seen a few anchors on the bottom in my time, the thing i notice the most is it's most often the chain that is snagged with the anchor sitting free on the reef . This is particularly true on rocky reef areas as opposed to coral reef areas.
Ian
Alcohol doesn't agree with me, but i sure do enjoy the argument!!!
Gees Phil I reckon you are taking a risk with that anchor and trying to hang on a wreck the way it is in the photos. This is what I would suggest for hanging onto wrecks from out on the sand/mud/shale/gravel/sponge beds, a tripped plough.
Underneath. You can get them real small or get them for boats up to desroyer size.
Swallowed up in the anchor well of the Signature with 300m of 10mm for anchoring on things like the Tiger Kelly, a boat length of chain and a bouy on the end in case we have to chase something and ditch the anchor. #Also notice the bar for straightening tynes although the moulding is for hanging fluke/sand anchors vertically I think. Well is lined with some soft cushion stuff from Clark Rubber type places. The glass was copping a fair beating in there.
Like Tony's mate we need two boys to float the whole setup.
But I used to get away with 1 on my other boat and an Ezy Lift Clip.
Our whole system starts with a piece of rope on the bow roller.
Splice a loop on the end and go back through itself. If you fix it to a cleat you run the risk of being rubbed off at night. It has happend to us twice, wearing through on the bow roller sides.
This piece of rope has a carabina type clip spliced on the end and it comes back to the cockpit.
Once you have deployed your anchor and attached your bouy make a grannys glasses clove hitch in the anchor rope and clip on.
A clove hitch will always come undone by pushing the tags ends into the middle of the knot.
The weight will come back on this short length of rope, cleat off the anchor rope with a bit of slack and you are done. A jamb cleat works fine for this and won't get in the way as much.
Phil
The tripped plough is definately the go. I have been using this on all types of bottom (including a wreck that claimed my last reef pick that was lead filled with short tynes) for some time now with great success.
Steve
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