New motor and water thru mounting bolts

[paullee]

Hi Guys,
i got a new 130 yam put on my Haines 8 months ago. 20 hour service I got them to raise the motor 1 hole. Today I put it back as it cavitatied more than I hoped.In doing so after re doing the top bolt sika I decided to pull the bottom bolts out to ensure they were sealed correctly. I was pissed when I found these bolts to be damp meaning water ingress to transom. Top bolts appeared fine and transom was rebuilt professionally about 10 years ago. I just don’t think they have used enough sika when installing the new motor. I am yet to re install the bolts but need to tomorrow so I can hopefully get out later in the week. My question is is there a better way rather then just getting as much sealant in there as I can? The top bolts are easier as the bolts go through a hole rather than a slot like the bottom bolts. Sika the crap out of it and hope for the best or what is best way preferably without removing the motor?
Thanks,
Paul

[Dignity]

I think it's been said many a time here, drill the holes oversize, fill with thickened resin then drill correct size hole.

[paullee]

I think it's been said many a time here, drill the holes oversize, fill with thickened resin then drill correct size hole.

Hi dignity thanks for that I was thinking that would be the response but I suppose I could get away with doing this from tthe inner side of the transom meaning I don’t have to remove the motor? Can’t believe the installer didn’t give a crap

[Dignity]

First trip out in mine the pod filled up with water, probably 150kg extra I didn't need on that trip, wondered why it was so difficult to get back on the trailer.

[ranmar850]

Hi dignity thanks for that I was thinking that would be the response but I suppose I could get away with doing this from tthe inner side of the transom meaning I don’t have to remove the motor? Can’t believe the installer didn’t give a crap

You'd better believe it. I had a s/h motor installed once, single replacing twins, on a sound transom. This supposedly very experienced marine serviceman, when quizzed on fitting, said, yep, we'll fill it with silastic, meaning the holes he had just drilled for the single motor. I hit the roof, and ripped him. Left him under no illusions on how I felt about that approach. "You WILL drill them oversize, fill with epoxy, drill out the next day. " As for the holes left from the twins, I had to instruct him to get hardwood dowels, clean out holes, hammer in with plenty of epoxy.
Just having the bolts damp isn't necessarily a disaster. As long as the transom is sealed tight to the holes via the above method as described by self and Dignity, the water will stay out of the transom itself. That is the important part. And down to how well the builder did it in the first instance.

[snatchy]

As mentioned already, drilling hole oversize and epoxy filling then redrilling is the safest way. Sealant doesn't seal forever.
I had a horror experience with the most experienced tech at a large boat dealer. Drilled holes into new wood floor and transom without any sealant, let alone epoxy.
The poor quality work experienced at many workshops is one reason to rebuild boats in non wood products.

[ranmar850]

As mentioned already, drilling hole oversize and epoxy filling then redrilling is the safest way. Sealant doesn't seal forever.
I had a horror experience with the most experienced tech at a large boat dealer. Drilled holes into new wood floor and transom without any sealant, let alone epoxy.
The poor quality work experienced at many workshops is one reason to rebuild boats in non wood products.

Not wrong there. They might be good at diagnosing outboard problems, just have no idea on boatbuilding and the long-term implications for the owner of doing a sh*t job.