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Thread: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

  1. #1
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seaforth QLD & Cairns

    Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    As my shopping for a new boat is getting more and more depressing, I've been looking at second hand boats.

    What is the best way to inspect a 2nd hand fiberglass boat? Specifically more around wood rot etc. Is there a method to determine whether wooden stringers or transoms have been inundated or affected by water?
    Is there anything else to worry/look for?

    I'm not set the purchase is going to be glass, I think it's more going to be when I find something close to what we're looking (options wise), that might be the dealmaker.
    Cheers
    Corry

  2. #2

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    There's the old knock test but it can still miss heaps, there's borrow a moisture meter from the local plumber, building inspector or pest controller and run that over the boat. But then again ally has it's own problems, are there pinholes you can't see etc. It's a mine field.

    Cheers

    Sam
    One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce and canonized those who complain.
    Thomas Sowell

  3. #3

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    They are not that reliable - moisture meters, particularly in unskilled hands.

  4. #4

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Pay a surveyor to look over it for you.

    In addition to the tap method and see if transom flex’s when leaning on outboard.

    The beauty of fibreglass is nothing is unfixable

  5. #5
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    In the Jungle/Mission Beach Hinterland

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Quote Originally Posted by Flex View Post
    Pay a surveyor to look over it for you.

    In addition to the tap method and see if transom flex’s when leaning on outboard.

    The beauty of fibreglass is nothing is unfixable
    Know a fella that payed a surveyer that gave his thumbs up but then he still had to do a full Cruisecraft rebuild...stringers, floor, transom, cabin bunks, the lot plus the inevitable wiring, steering, fuel tank, new dash and electronics, lights etc etc etc....got his few hundred dollar inspection fee back but no responsibility taken or compensation forthcoming....then sold it last year as he found a cabin boat wasnt what he really wanted after all, as he often liked to fish alone ...

    Sure nothing fibreglass is unfixable but paying a professional to strip, rebuild and refit a glass boat is crazy money plus dealing with the whole process and the time involved..

    If you go glass get one that has no wood in it..

  6. #6

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Undo an engine bolt and stick your finger in the transom and see if its wet or sealed properly a bottom bolt is best and take a screw driver and tap around the transom with the handle end and you will soon hear the different tone from good wood too rotten wood if the transom is wet most likely the stringer are too.

  7. #7

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Quote Originally Posted by billfisher View Post
    They are not that reliable - moisture meters, particularly in unskilled hands.
    Unfortunately there are good moisture meters snd there are basic ones, just like glass boats 😉
    One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce and canonized those who complain.
    Thomas Sowell

  8. #8

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Avoid wood altogether. You won't be able to to tell if there's moisture entirely without pulling things apart imo. It's the budget that'll control the purchase most of the time.
    What size are you looking at?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  9. #9

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Quote Originally Posted by docaster View Post
    Avoid wood altogether. You won't be able to to tell if there's moisture entirely without pulling things apart imo. It's the budget that'll control the purchase most of the time.
    What size are you looking at?

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    Haines Signature specially treat their plywood so that it is unlikely to rot.

  10. #10
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Weren't Signatures notorious for rot, late 90's-early noughties? Like a five year lifespan? They realosed they needed to up their game. Caribbeans have a long standing reputation for being rot-free, due to their construction methods and insistence on building a quality product. Unlike some brand manufacturers who were just intent on turning out as many as they could--looking at you, Seafarer, with your masonite floors, (Markham were guilty of that , as well. ) That being said, of course, manufacturers can build them to as high a standard as possible, then some f*wit numpty owner comes along and drills holes clean through to install an auxiliary bracket , then "seals" the holes with silastic, or sikaflex, and away you go, the moisture is off and running.

    The "no wood" policy is a way of dealing with it, but not the be-all and end-all. If you took that attitude, you wouldn't be buying anything from International Marine, who make Caribbean. Since the early nineties, thye have had very little wood in their trailer boats. No wood in stringers? Check. No wood in deck, or foredeck? Check, it's all a GRP sandwich laminate. Any bulkheads wood ?--the forward collision bulkhead is ply, 25mm thick, heavily glassed, and this is not in the water anyway. Cabin bulkhead is solid glass. Wood in transom? Yes, they do, and before you start howling about that, look at how they do it. The wood section of the transom ) made from actual marine ply, not structural, as some did. Only the centre section, the thick bit, is the ply, fully encapsulated . The outboard mounting holes are drilled before delivery, oversize, filled with epoxy, then redrilled. The rest of the transom is solid glass, drill away to your hearts' content. You can even screw into the very bottom of the section under the ply, because the hull is a solid 25mm thick where it tabs to the transom bottom, so, drilling into that is just solid glass anyway.

    So, no wood is a good thing for hull longevity, in that respect, but not an absolute. Anything you buy from a reputable manufacturer, under ten years old, should be good. You are at least getting the rot out of the equation.The problem with that? You are paying near new price. Beware of small manufacturers with attractive pricing--corners will be cut, and they just may go belly up during your build anyway.

    As for ali, well, pinholing has been mentioned, but my main concern would be overall build quality. They can look flash, but be a nightmare below, cracking, corroding--stay away from anything ali that touts foam filling as a safety feature, the foam traps salt and moisture against the hull and eats it away. In a glass boat, it will end up a stinking mess. I've had a lot of experience with large ali hulls, and I've seen it all. Paint looks nice for a few years, then fades, dark colours show every scratch, paint bubbles around fittings, it goes on and on.

    Why is the new boat shopping " depressing" --cost? Not getting the layout you want? Selling BMT packages with trailers that are barely legal when fully fuelled, without adding any of the gear you carry?

  11. #11

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Quote Originally Posted by ranmar850 View Post
    Weren't Signatures notorious for rot, late 90's-early noughties? Like a five year lifespan? They realosed they needed to up their game. Caribbeans have a long standing reputation for being rot-free, due to their construction methods and insistence on building a quality product. Unlike some brand manufacturers who were just intent on turning out as many as they could--looking at you, Seafarer, with your masonite floors, (Markham were guilty of that , as well. ) That being said, of course, manufacturers can build them to as high a standard as possible, then some f*wit numpty owner comes along and drills holes clean through to install an auxiliary bracket , then "seals" the holes with silastic, or sikaflex, and away you go, the moisture is off and running.

    The "no wood" policy is a way of dealing with it, but not the be-all and end-all. If you took that attitude, you wouldn't be buying anything from International Marine, who make Caribbean. Since the early nineties, thye have had very little wood in their trailer boats. No wood in stringers? Check. No wood in deck, or foredeck? Check, it's all a GRP sandwich laminate. Any bulkheads wood ?--the forward collision bulkhead is ply, 25mm thick, heavily glassed, and this is not in the water anyway. Cabin bulkhead is solid glass. Wood in transom? Yes, they do, and before you start howling about that, look at how they do it. The wood section of the transom ) made from actual marine ply, not structural, as some did. Only the centre section, the thick bit, is the ply, fully encapsulated . The outboard mounting holes are drilled before delivery, oversize, filled with epoxy, then redrilled. The rest of the transom is solid glass, drill away to your hearts' content. You can even screw into the very bottom of the section under the ply, because the hull is a solid 25mm thick where it tabs to the transom bottom, so, drilling into that is just solid glass anyway.

    So, no wood is a good thing for hull longevity, in that respect, but not an absolute. Anything you buy from a reputable manufacturer, under ten years old, should be good. You are at least getting the rot out of the equation.The problem with that? You are paying near new price. Beware of small manufacturers with attractive pricing--corners will be cut, and they just may go belly up during your build anyway.

    As for ali, well, pinholing has been mentioned, but my main concern would be overall build quality. They can look flash, but be a nightmare below, cracking, corroding--stay away from anything ali that touts foam filling as a safety feature, the foam traps salt and moisture against the hull and eats it away. In a glass boat, it will end up a stinking mess. I've had a lot of experience with large ali hulls, and I've seen it all. Paint looks nice for a few years, then fades, dark colours show every scratch, paint bubbles around fittings, it goes on and on.

    Why is the new boat shopping " depressing" --cost? Not getting the layout you want? Selling BMT packages with trailers that are barely legal when fully fuelled, without adding any of the gear you carry?
    Marine ply will rot just as easily as structural. I'm not sure how far back the Signature group was using the specially treated ply - I think it is at least 2007.

  12. #12

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    With a bit of research you can find out what boats use decent construction methods and materials, most newer boats will have no wood, old Seafarers and Haines (and lots of other brands) were made of rubbish timber, barely suitable for firewood.

  13. #13
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Quote Originally Posted by billfisher View Post
    Marine ply will rot just as easily as structural. I'm not sure how far back the Signature group was using the specially treated ply - I think it is at least 2007.
    Try a little test. Put a piece of actual marine ply, bondwood, you know, the stuff they built entire boats with, out in the weather. Put a piece of structural ply next to it. Come back in twelve months. As I said, they built entire boats of this,large boats, not glassed over. Just primed and painted, will last forever if properly maintained. Or fall apart in 25 years if neglected. There is absolutely no comparison between structural and bondwood.

  14. #14

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    Half the time it’s not the manufacturers fault
    it’s the dealer fitting it up or the owner fitting things like bilge pumps and transducers with just a horns as and bit id bathroom sealer

    If you can pull the covers up over fuel tanks and see if the ally of the tank is in good condition and if it’s a plastic tank check for bulges or weeping

  15. #15

    Re: Inspecting a Fiberglass Boat

    I would venture neither will rot. It needs to be constantly wet. Out in the open it will regularly dry out.

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