Reply With QuoteHi Kevin.
I haven't been able to post for weeks.
Seems I can now.
What 's new with your build?
Supporting the hull is critical, if you have ever seen a hull with the deck and floor removed it would scare you how "wobbly" it is! My guess it was just pressure from cutting "something" out has distorted the bottom, or, it might have been like that before?
Hi Kevin.
I haven't been able to post for weeks.
Seems I can now.
What 's new with your build?
Haven’t done much in the last month.Last week we glued and glassed in the first outer stringer.Started in the morning but things took longer than we hoped , and had to stop after getting first layer of glass on due to the heat (34 deg).Waited until late afternoon to put second layer on.
So far this weekend we have removed second outer stringer, shaped and glued in new stringer ready for fibre glass
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Yer 34 deg is not a good day to be glassing or cutting out stringers hot and sweaty and itchy scratchy.
Been slowly chipping away over the last month.Since the last post we’ve glassed in the outer stringers and bulk heads .The transom knees have been cut to shape and fitted ready for glassing in .I spent a few hours today grinding up the front section of the boat .Not much fun in the 30 degree heat and high humidity🤢.Summer is supposed to be finished .Will hopefully start shaping the front stringer tomorrow
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Have you scotched the idea of putting her in the water before the floor goes on?
One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce and canonized those who complain.
Thomas Sowell
Originally Posted by Kevinwd1
Any reason why you didn't go with thermolite board for your rebuild ?
Specially for such a important job
Chris
Give a man a fish & he will eat for a day !
Teach him how to fish
& he will sit in a boat - & drink beer all day!
TEAM MOJIKO
The boat lasted 40 years with ply and to be honest it probably would have been alright to use it for a few more years .Once I’ve finished rebuilding the boat it will probably outlast me 😳.Also I’ve never done anything like this before so spending 3 to 4 times more using epoxy and thermolite wasn’t that attractive for my first rebuild .I can definitely understand way people would spend the extra on thermolite/epoxy especially on bigger boats but for me polyester/ply was what I decided on .I,m hoping the boat will cost me around $4000 in total to rebuild (this includes purchase price).If it only lasts 10 years it’s still pretty cheap
Probably won’t put the boat in the water before doing the floor but still tempted
Slowly getting there,the stringers are all glassed in
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A friend had some thermolite offcuts so decided to dry fit it to the rear floor
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Last weekend we drilled the limber holes through the bulkheads and outer stringers ,then sealed them firstly by brushing on two layers of thinned epoxy resin then a layer of thickened epoxy
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Also decided to start flowcoating the stringers and bulkheads to help prevent future rot (maybe overkill?)
Today we decided to start fitting up the floor .I’ve found that its easier to make templates when fitting things to this boat .It might not be the quickest way to do things but normally we don’t have any issues with things not fitting
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This template worked out perfectly with the floor fitting with minimal adjustments
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The way we did the template gave us a good profile of where the top of the floor intersected the hull and also where the bottom of the floor intersected the hull and various points.This made bevelling the edge of the floor to fit the angle of the hull a lot easier
I still need to glass the chine strengtheners and finish flow coating the stringers before gluing the floor down
Still a long way to go
Any updates Kev?
Since the last post we have glued the floor in and then put one layer of mat back on top .Used peel ply everywhere as I don’t like grinding much..The front kickboard took a bit of time to fit and glass in .l have started filling in all the holes on the rear top deck before we glue in back in place .Not sure whether to flow coat the inside after the rear deck is attached .It will be summer before I know it and don’t really want to do flowcoating in the heat .
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Making slow progress but progress never the less
[QUOTE=Kevinwd1;1704209] Not sure whether to flow coat the inside after the rear deck is attached. It will be summer before I know it and don’t really want to do flowcoating in the heat .
I would suggest that you flowcoat up under the foredeck now, as it is a truely horrid job. Everything from the dash back is easy. and even summer shouldn't bother you.
I did my whole interior before refitting the deck, but that was a mistake, as I then glassed the hull/deck join and didn't pay enough attention to keeping resin where it belonged... So a lot more rectification work to be done. Bugger.
You should be proud of your workmanship. Excellent work!
Thanks Giddyup ,I’m going to leave the flowcoating until later.Need to do some more research on how to do non skid for the floor.
I’ve been getting the rear top deck ready for reattaching and should hopefully get that done soon .Unfortunately I have some major projects around the house ,so time on the boat will be somewhat limited
Have been working around the house for the last couple of months so haven’t done much on the boat.Since the last post we have glued the rear deck on and glassed it to the hull from the inside as well as the out side.We removed it from the cradle and put it back on the trailer .The transom skin gelcoat was ground off and a layer of surfboard mat was glassed over over it to seal up all the holes making it ready for bogging. Peel ply was used on the outside so hopefully bogging will be a lot easier
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