That’s the go it’s just got to hold its shape while you do the restore.
That’s the go it’s just got to hold its shape while you do the restore.
If you mark out your outboard mounting hole and use a bigger hole saw to drill it out then bog it back up when you drill them out again you want need to seal them again if get what I mean,I used a 35 mm hole saw so you have plenty of meat when you redrill them .
You can chop up some glass and mix some resin to make a structural bog or epoxy if you have some this will stop any ingress into the transom in the future.
Looks good so far but I’m certainly no expert , MattOriginally Posted by Kevinwd1
A bad days fishing has got to be better than any day at work......
It’s funny Matt,
I am the same, I can bring a 20 / 30 storey high rise out of the ground,but doing something that Kev is doing would scare the shit out of me.
Keep the updates going Kev ,enjoying the journey.
Shawn
Kev, the way you've gone about this so far !, I can tell that you will ace this, even myself being no expert, there's stuff done by others on this forum that unfortunately i cant unsee, wish you well.
Mark
Kevin, I see you got some ply, my mate couldn't help wigh a supplier in Redcliffe.
One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce and canonized those who complain.
Thomas Sowell
After a few hiccups were hopefully back on track .Managed to laminate the to pieces of ply on Saturday and then glue the core to the transom on Sunday.Probably used a bit to much glue .There was a lot of glue that was pushed through the drain holes and we used quite a bit of acetone to clean off excess glue .I think everything looks good .Just have to remove screws from transom skin tomorrow
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Better more glue than not enough. You're going great.
One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce and canonized those who complain.
Thomas Sowell
Beautiful work, Kevin.
I should have asked earlier - Did you set the transom for 20" or 25"?
Set it for 20”.It seemed like we needed about another 5 to 10mm more than existing transom to get dimensions correct to suit outboard.Decided its probably easy enough to grind off the extra timber if we’re wrong.Will dummy up the motor before reattaching top deck?
20" is 20".
Make the transom to that dimension, then fit the engine well to that.
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Glass it all in with a couple of 450gsm d/b's and don't forget the choppy if you're using poly.
Add an extra choppy on top, so when you get to fairing, you are not overzealously sanding into the db.
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It will look something like this when bogged up and sanded off the 1st time:
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But don't panic, it will end up perfect.
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Important to use the same layup inside the boat where the rear deck attaches to the sides and transom.
It will be so much stronger than factory.
If you don't have a drilling jig, you will need to mount your motor to mark the mounting holes. These will be over-drilled to 1" diameter, epoxy glue filled, and re-drilled 1/2'. Have to protect that core...
Set the motor up so that the bottom of the hull is a level with the bottom of the cavitation plate, and spend as much time as is necessary to mount the motor perfectly square to the boat. Water level the same spot on the outer chines is a good start.
There will be sufficient holes on the transom bracket to lift the motor upto a couple of inches if needed, which will be most likely with modern propellers..
Fibreglassed the inside of the girders after removing the old plywood.Laid two layers of combination mat and used thickened resin to cove the corners.Needed to practice on something before doing the transom as I haven’t much experience fibreglassing.Things went pretty smoothly and the combination mat seemed easy to work with .Hoping to do the transom next weekend
100%x
Just a word of warning (and I know this is obvious, but....) when working with resin, no matter how careful you are, little drips/drops will get on the floor, then you walk in them and spread resin all over the place, little bits of mat stick to your shoes until you look like a Yeti! Be warned......walking into the house with resin on your shoes can result in a near death experience when you wife/partner/girlfriend/boyfriend sees the carpet or wooden floor covered in non removable marks, note, do NOT bring acetone into the house, or that previous near death experience will seem like a picnic when you dissolve, Lino, wooden floor finish or any painted surface..........don't even ask how I know.
Just a few home handyman tips (that I have mentioned before) ice cream containers work great for resin mixing, when hard, twist the container, and the old resin just pops out, leaving a "new" container, save a few for use. Use cheap disposable paint brushes and rollers, don't try to clean them, the acetone costs more that a cheap throw away brush, only wash a metal roller if you have one. Constant washing of hands with acetone will dry your skin out, use moisturiser after washing, and constant use will dissolve your finger nails too! Spread an old tarp or drop sheet on the ground to work on, that saves you garage or lawn from resin "blobs" it's a big advantage if you have a helper to mix batches if resin, it saves you jumping in and out of the boat, and a new batch can be ready just as the previous one is used.
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