Having a go 146r rebuild

[Dignity]

On the itchy side of things when I first did fibreglassing I would lather up in talcum powder, theory was it filled the pores of the skin but as years wore on and I got thick skinned 🤣 I stopped doing that.

Kevin, certainly take Giddyup up on his offer, his work is excellant. His beef, if it could be called that is his posts being side tracked which is fair enough as he is focused on what he is doing.

Gazza, is that a fair amount of white showing through in places where the epoxy didn't wet out the glass or just bad lighting.

[Kevinwd1]

Spent a few hours grinding the glue that held the floor onto the hull today ,then started grinding the transom. Scary how thin the top of the transom is.
Thankfully I haven't had the itches yet. I only do a few hours at a time and really cover up, but do struggle with the heat
Still have a lot of grinding to go .Will post some pics at the end of the weekend

[gazza2006au]

On the itchy side of things when I first did fibreglassing I would lather up in talcum powder, theory was it filled the pores of the skin but as years wore on and I got thick skinned 🤣 I stopped doing that.

Kevin, certainly take Giddyup up on his offer, his work is excellant. His beef, if it could be called that is his posts being side tracked which is fair enough as he is focused on what he is doing.

Gazza, is that a fair amount of white showing through in places where the epoxy didn't wet out the glass or just bad lighting.

Digs it was 800gram woven roving it doesn't or didn't for me go translucent like 400gram double bias, the 800gram woven roving is thick picesof fibreglass atleaee 4mm-5mm in thickness per strand apposed to 400gram double bias that the strands are 1.5mm in diameter massive difference its like sowing cotton to anchor rope

[gazza2006au]

Spent a few hours grinding the glue that held the floor onto the hull today ,then started grinding the transom. Scary how thin the top of the transom is.
Thankfully I haven't had the itches yet. I only do a few hours at a time and really cover up, but do struggle with the heat
Still have a lot of grinding to go .Will post some pics at the end of the weekend

Thru summer i found working under led lights at night was really good, working during the day in summer the resin and glue mixes kicked off to fast

[gazza2006au]

Heres my build not perfect but it works, maybe doing a 55km trip next week offshore

https://youtu.be/Gme5U69u-eY

[bluefin59]

Heres my build not perfect but it works, maybe doing a 55km trip next week offshore

https://youtu.be/Gme5U69u-eY

You don’t want people contributing shit to your threads so you should go away and do the same , the only thing anyone will learn from your pile of garbage is how NOT to do it . Go away your not relevant in any way .

[Dignity]

Kevin, my suggestion is you start a new thread with your build and do as Giddyup did, brook no shit and shut people down to keep it on track, which is what makes his post enjoyable.

[Kevinwd1]

If I start a new thread I’ll just be changing the battlefield🤪
So I’ll lighten the mood and post a few pictures from todays grind
image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg
This took me 2 hours so at this rate it’s going to take awhile
I think I’ve been over thinking things and have decided I’m going to use Vinylester resin for the entire build
I will glue in new transom core using resin/cabosil glue
I’m going to use thermolite because I don’t trust quality of imported ply and Australia made ply is almost as expensive as thermolite
The fibreglass layup once the new core is glued in is what I would like some guidance on
I’m thinking of using a combination of 450 or 600 gsm chopped mat and 400gsm double bias as follows
1st layer - Chopped mat
2nd layer -Double bias
3rd layer-Chopped mat
4th layer-Double bias
5th layer-Chopped mat

Each layer will progressively tab further and further into sides and bottom of hull by 50mm
I may add a few more layers in the corners later

Any constructive criticism/advice welcomed

[gunna]

Just for encouragement Kevin - there are probably plenty like me who don’t have the skills but nevertheless thoroughly enjoy following the progress of these rebuilds when done properly. Giddyups is a classic example. So I am looking forward to your progress reports and to the advice you will get from those who have done their own professional, top quality job.

[bluefin59]

If I start a new thread I’ll just be changing the battlefield[emoji2957]
So I’ll lighten the mood and post a few pictures from todays grind
Attachment 126237Attachment 126238
Attachment 126236
This took me 2 hours so at this rate it’s going to take awhile
I think I’ve been over thinking things and have decided I’m going to use Vinylester resin for the entire build
I will glue in new transom core using resin/cabosil glue
I’m going to use thermolite because I don’t trust quality of imported ply and Australia made ply is almost as expensive as thermolite
The fibreglass layup once the new core is glued in is what I would like some guidance on
I’m thinking of using a combination of 450 or 600 gsm chopped mat and 400gsm double bias as follows
1st layer - Chopped mat
2nd layer -Double bias
3rd layer-Chopped mat
4th layer-Double bias
5th layer-Chopped mat

Each layer will progressively tab further and further into sides and bottom of hull by 50mm
I may add a few more layers in the corners later

Any constructive criticism/advice welcomed

Excellent work mate carry on with your post it’s good to see and can’t wait to see the progress . Matt

[Dignity]

Yep, keep it up as it's your build not someone elses, unfortunately the photos didn't come through for me.

[gunna]

If I start a new thread I’ll just be changing the battlefield浪
So I’ll lighten the mood and post a few pictures from todays grind
image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg
This took me 2 hours so at this rate it’s going to take awhile
I think I’ve been over thinking things and have decided I’m going to use Vinylester resin for the entire build
I will glue in new transom core using resin/cabosil glue
I’m going to use thermolite because I don’t trust quality of imported ply and Australia made ply is almost as expensive as thermolite
The fibreglass layup once the new core is glued in is what I would like some guidance on
I’m thinking of using a combination of 450 or 600 gsm chopped mat and 400gsm double bias as follows
1st layer - Chopped mat
2nd layer -Double bias
3rd layer-Chopped mat
4th layer-Double bias
5th layer-Chopped mat

Each layer will progressively tab further and further into sides and bottom of hull by 50mm
I may add a few more layers in the corners later

Any constructive criticism/advice welcomed

Can you throw up a couple photos of the complete boat as it currently is please.

[Dignity]

Yep, keep it up as it's your build not someone elses, unfortunately the photos didn't come through for me.

Working now, thanks.

[Kevinwd1]

A few more hours grinding
A few pics of the boat for gunna
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

[giddyup58]

Hey Kevin.

I've been absent for a few days, and I'm really impressed with your progress!
Apologies for not answering your PM immediately.

A couple of observations, if I may be so bold.
Forget about Vinylester. Way too expensive and not as easy to work as Poly. No big advantage.
Forget about Thermolite or Cootaboard. There is nothing wrong with waterproof glued ply. Your boat lasted 50 years with it.
Just my 2 cents worth...
I want to see this boat finished as quickly and as cost effectively as possible. Eliminating totally unnecessary expense will help attain that goal.
Keep up the good work and focus on the objective. Restoring one of the best 14.5' hulls ever built.