Having a go 146r rebuild

[Kevinwd1]

After reading giddyup58 how to rebuild a 146r post, I’ve decided to give rebuilding a 146r a go.I’ve bought a boat and have stored it at a mates place.He’s on a 8 acre block so grinding dust etc is not too much of a problem.
I’ve never done anything like this before so am doing a lot of research online and posting on forums
So far I’ve managed to remove the back top section of the boat,remove the floor and chisel out the old transom material (finished yesterday and forgot to take a photo).Hopefully in the next few weeks I can grind and clean up transom area ready to fit new material
I’m still unsure on weather to use ply or thermolite.Thermolite will blow the budget and extend the rebuild time a lot.Aussie plywood is almost as expensive as thermolite and I’m not sure about cheap imported ply .
When I do install the new transom of thinking of using a epoxy cream adhesive (Trojan fibreglass supplies) to bond the new material to the outer skin.For the rest of the build I will be using vinyl ester resin .I’ll just have to make sure I remove all traces of epoxy glue left on the hull.Don’t know why photos are rotated?
Any advice,tips etc will be appreciated

[stevej]

I did one years ago

before you take the stringers out get the boat supported with full length supports underneath

even in a small hull like this its easy to get a concave or warp to the hull underneath

[Dignity]

Don't worry about the photo's, at AF here we're all pretty well sideways. I think you msy have taken the photo's in portrait, try landscape mode.

But as Stevej says, do support the hull in a cradle. I've seen hulls where the sttingers were stripped while on a trailer but end up with a hook in the hull or a twist in it. Hell,I've watched an ally boat being built where one bloke pulls the sheet together and another welds, no bracing - nothing. Too many out there getting CNC plate work but not ensuring that the hull is all square.

[Kevinwd1]

I was thinking off jacking the boat up on the trailer and supporting the keel only on the front and back rollers.Then having the hull supported with some timber underneath the sides of the boat .

[chris69]

Yep Another vote for a cradle when you take the combing off and remove your stringers just standing in the hull working on it can change things, what you do now will make the final rebuild easier if the hull stays in shape , less headaches by not having to go back to correct things.

[giddyup58]

[QUOTE=Kevinwd1;1700385]After reading giddyup58 how to rebuild a 146r post, I’ve decided to give rebuilding a 146r a go.

Excellent! Glad to see that you have taken the plunge!

If you need any clarification, feel free to pm me. What you have done so far looks pretty good.

Itchies cure:
If you have a compressor, hose off all fg dust on yourself, then asap blow off with air gun. That will get rid of 80%
If no compressor, get a loofa or similar, and while you are in the shower, load it up with soap and keep rubbing, probably 3x more than you usually would to get clean. Will get rid of 80% too.
Combine both - 90%

Good luck and keep those landscape photos coming.

[gazza2006au]

Don't use the trojan epoxy cream i bought a set of A/B its runny like honey and as it kicks off it runs really thin

The trojan epoxy resin is good stuff but if u fair with it using fairing alone it thins right out as it kicks off and if u add silica to the mix to make it non sag trying to sand the cured mix is like sanding marble with 3000 grit sand paper

Use the epoxy but be cautious where u use it, anything that needs fairing use polyester resin but not over epoxy

[gazza2006au]

I actually made a 18 layer glass laminate using trojan epoxy resin and woven roving i chucked it into my 20,000kg hydraulic press and the press maxed out without the laminate snapping

[Kevinwd1]

I was only going to use the cream to bond the new transom core to the existing skin. So hopefully will only have minimal sanding .I will wipe up any excess cream that is pushed out when transom is clamped down with acetone. I'm hoping the epoxy bond will compensate for the uneven surface of the existing skin ?.In theory I will on have a small bead of exposed epoxy (as long as I cut new transom core accurately) that shouldn't effect bonding of vinylester resin?
Do you think that this cream would be to runny when applied vertically to bond transom.
My other option was to buy laminating epoxy and thicken with cabosil .The longer bonding time of the cream appealed to me

[Ducksnutz]

Kev,

Just a small piece of advice mate….

Please do your due diligence in who you take advice from on this forum. There’s members on here who have contributed outstanding information and education on how things should be done regarding your project.

The search button is the key….

giddyup58 is one who I would be getting in touch with…

Looking forward to the progress mate.👍

[Cobbo1]

Kev,

Just a small piece of advice mate….

Please do your due diligence in who you take advice from on this forum. There’s members on here who have contributed outstanding information and education of how things should be done regarding your project.

The search button is the key….

giddyup58 is one who I would be getting in touch with…

Looking forward to the progress mate.

Well put, far less straight forward about it than I am

http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/sho...ighlight=Gazza

[Kevinwd1]

No worries Ducknutz
I have studied giddyup58's rebuild post and will be taking his feedback as gospel. I'm going to follow his rebuild as closely as I can .So far things have gone ok, but it's been a bit of a struggle with the heat/humidity here in brisbane.
I now thinking of maybe using epoxy resin for the entire build but am unsure of how user friendly it is compared to vinylester. One of the reasons for this is the short shelf life of polyester( didn't realize it was only 3 to 4 months).
Is epoxy a lot thicker and harder to wet out resin? and require a faster work pace due to shorter pot life
I'm trying to find out as much info before going ahead and buying products

[chris69]

[QUOTE=Kevinwd1;1700465]No worries Ducknutz
I have studied giddyup58's rebuild post and will be taking his feedback as gospel. I'm going to follow his rebuild as closely as I can .So far things have gone ok, but it's been a bit of a struggle with the heat/humidity here in brisbane.
I now thinking of maybe using epoxy resin for the entire build but am unsure of how user friendly it is compared to vinylester. One of the reasons for this is the short shelf life of polyester( didn't realize it was only 3 to 4 months).
Is epoxy a lot thicker and harder to wet out resin? and require a faster work pace due to shorter pot life
I'm trying to find out as much info before going ahead and buying products

QUOTE.

With epoxy it just takes longer to go off before you can work on the new bit and with summer you will have shorter pot life you can measure out some epoxy and cool it down in the fridge or freezer before adding the part b ice cream containers with lids are the go for this.

And epoxy wets out well on some cloths but it’s a bit different with chop strand because of the binder in it ,the trick is to get it out fast to lessen the reaction in the resin a rule of thumb is about1.2 litres mixed will cover around 1 square mt of 450 gram double bias mat glass and that’s for 5 to 1 epoxy ,working with epoxy to make fairing be careful not to mix to much epoxy to start with as if you make big mixes you will feel the heat very fast and learn about exothermic reactions don’t let that scare you but be always it can get to the smoking stage and your mix will go off before you can work with it you will learn very fast on how much you can mix and work with before it goes off.

A tip for you it your epoxy gets tacky and you can’t roll it gently wave a heat gun over it and it will allow you to roll it but don’t hold the heat gun on it.

Start with small mixes until until you get to not how much to use for the cloth size your using large 60 mil syringes for resins are good to work with and 20 mil hardener work well for little mixes, and litre jugs for larger mixes are the go ,just remember to mix well and get it out as fast as you can the gives you the time to work with it.

And peel ply is a good thing to work with with epoxy if your keen it’s pretty cheap and good on vertical surfaces it stops your resin from draining.

[Kevinwd1]

Thanks chris69 for your help
Regarding chop strand would you use binder less mat? Cant seem to find much 450gsm binder less chopped strand for sale online
How many layers of 450gsm double bias could you lay in one go before exothermic heat becomes a problem
Looking at giddyup58's rebuild post it looks like he used 5 layers of glass on transom core.Could this be done in one day ,or would the time waiting for resin to cool prohibit this?
I will PM giddyup58 to see what layup he used
Trogan fibreglass has a sale on their 500 series epoxy laminating resin (super slow cure).Not sure if there are any issues using super slow cure?
When I finally decide which way I'm going to go I'll be screwing 3 pieces of ply together to resemble corner of transom .I'll practice filleting corners ,laying the glass etc to get a feel for the process

[gazza2006au]

Ask Noelm for advice top bloke he is pretty much the only one i took solid advice from in my build

I used 120 litres of epoxy in my 19 foot rebuild heres a video showing the potlife of the trojan epoxy resin use normal speed of hardner only use extra long if your up in north australia

Few ways of glassing stringers this just how i done mine, u can see the roller change frequency because of pot life

Trojans epoxy pot life is 20mins about the same as therepolyester resin, there polyester resin has a 12 month shelf life there epoxy resin has 3 year she life

Take my build with a grain of salt i screwed up here and there but ask Noelm for advice the bloke is very neutral and level headed

Giddyup doesnt post his processes in main forum as he previosly told ne in private likely so people think his perfect

https://youtu.be/rpisRZkdgPQ