Autopilots on small vessels.

[Islander77]

I’m total newbie in regards to autopilots. Never really thought of them and didn’t even think I would ever need one. But this thread sparked my interest. Did a little bit of research, and it looks that Auto-Pilot is one of those things that people think they don’t need at first, but then, once try it out cannot look back

Few newbie questions please:

- With Autopilots can I mix brands? For example Garmin MFD, but Simrad/Raymarine AP? Will the devices “talk” to each other without problems? Are there any benefits of doing so, or better to keep everything same brand, say Garmin?

- What exactly should be included in AP system and what’s the average price? I’m checking the Garmin range on their official website and feel completely lost… What exactly do I need?
https://www.garmin.com/en-AU/c/marine/boat-autopilots/

- Does it (AP) replace hydraulic steering or is it installed in addition to it? Do they provide any additional power assist to steering? Do I have to have hydraulic steering for AP, or AP can be a standalone system?

- Is it something that is DIY friendly for installation after getting the boat? Or is it better to include into boat package in a first place?

[scottar]

I’m total newbie in regards to autopilots. Never really thought of them and didn’t even think I would ever need one. But this thread sparked my interest. Did a little bit of research, and it looks that Auto-Pilot is one of those things that people think they don’t need at first, but then, once try it out cannot look back

Few newbie questions please:

- With Autopilots can I mix brands? For example Garmin MFD, but Simrad/Raymarine AP? Will the devices “talk” to each other without problems? Are there any benefits of doing so, or better to keep everything same brand, say Garmin?

- What exactly should be included in AP system and what’s the average price? I’m checking the Garmin range on their official website and feel completely lost… What exactly do I need?
https://www.garmin.com/en-AU/c/marine/boat-autopilots/

- Does it (AP) replace hydraulic steering or is it installed in addition to it? Do they provide any additional power assist to steering? Do I have to have hydraulic steering for AP, or AP can be a standalone system?

- Is it something that is DIY friendly for installation after getting the boat? Or is it better to include into boat package in a first place?

Can you mix brands ? If the pilot you choose has it's own independent display and they use the same interfacing protocol - in most cases the answer is yes BUT if you choose to go down that road it is a good idea to use a technical retailer who does installation and ask first what happens if your chosen gear doesn't communicate because from time to time it does happen. Tech dealers who actually install across a few different brands have often run into brand incompatibilities previously and may already know if your chosen combination will work. If you are looking at a pilot that does not have a head unit and are intending operating through a MFD it will need to be the same brand and a compatible model.

What's included ? Depends on brand and model. Some brands sell every part separately. Others offer a "corepack" and you then add a drive unit to suit. Some come complete. Typical pricing 10 years ago (haven't needed to keep tabs on prices) ranged from two to near on seven thousand depending on brand, drive unit type and accessories.

Needs? Depends on brand but most pilot systems have a display (stand alone or MFD) , a heading sensor (fluxgate compass, satellite compass or a compass top sensor ) and a processor unit as a bare minimum. Then you will most likely also need a drive unit (depends on your steering) and potentially a rudder feedback device. Pump selection is based around the volume of your boats steering ram. The pilot needs to be able too steer from full steering lock in one direction to the other within a set time. Too fast or too slow and it will have steering issues.

Does it replace your steering? - No. It's in addition. On a typical offshore rig with hydraulic steering this means teeing a reversible hydraulic pump into the existing steering. Your steering system must incorporate lock valves in the helm unit for this to work or the wheel will spin and the motor won't move. Most recognized brands do but I have seen in recent times a cheap Chinese system that didn't. The pilot then drives this pump. A standard pilot doesn't provide any power assist but some brands do have the option of removing the helm pump and being set up as a full electric steering system - not something I would bother with in a trailer boat. The best option in a small boat is to have hydraulic steering. You can get mechanical drives that incorporate a clutch and use a steering cable but then the wheel physically turns as the pilot drives - means you can't really hang on and need to be careful nothing gets hung up in the wheel. "Spoked" steering wheels and mechanical drives have been known to cause injury. With hydraulics the wheel will stay motionless while the pilot is driving.

DIY - Sure if you are handy and everything goes according to plan - plenty have but just make sure you purchase from someone who has the option of technical support if it doesn't. Typically guys who specialize in marine electronics will have a better understanding than your average boat dealer but this will depend on brand and said dealers. Going down the DIY route will require mechanical, electrical and plumbing skill sets.

[Islander77]

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Wow, what a detailed response, Thanks a lot mate - great help, really appreciate it!!!

[inveratta]

Had a near miss out at caloundra wide while anchored one night.
All on board were sleeping bar me. Saw the red and green coming from a fair way off. Kept coming and coming, and coming.
Last minute flashing torches had no effect. Neither did the anchor light (always on) and finally nav lights.
6mtr (+) boat at a fair speed missed us in a wide open blue ocean by less than 10 mtrs. Kept speed and course when past us.
Unattended autopilot (can you do that? ) or just an ignorant idiot? Or both?
Too quick, dark and terrified to get the rego.

yes......this has long been an issue .....when sailing at night,we used to have a white flare readily available to fire towards any ship that was bearing down on us...and we didnt have to ask the skipper for permission...anything to avoid a collision at sea at night....

[TheGurn]

yes......this has long been an issue .....when sailing at night,we used to have a white flare readily available to fire towards any ship that was bearing down on us...and we didnt have to ask the skipper for permission...anything to avoid a collision at sea at night....

That's a good plan. By the time you realise it's not fisheries, water police or someone needing assistance, and isn't slowing, there's no time to do anything about it when you're anchored.

Apologies op. Bit off topic.

[inveratta]

WHITE ANTICOLLISON FLARES
NOTE THIS IS NOT A DISTRESS FLARE.
Visibility: Approximately 3 miles on a clear night
Candelas: Approximately ……
Burn: Approximately 40 seconds
Use: To attract another vessels attention to warn them that you may be on a potential collision course when the vessel does not seem to be taking appropriate avoiding action. Another use for the white flare is to illuminate a man overboard at night, much better than a spotlight as not uni-directional.
How to use: Again check your flares as the firing mechanism is not standard, but all should be held overboard and downwind and tilted away from the operator. It is advisable after using a white anti-collision flare to call the nearest coastguard and report the use just in case it is mistaken for a distress flare.


seems quiet at the moment so I hope this adds to the reasonableness ....of using flares...before the collision....maybe once the LED flares come in that will be the way to go.....

[Danf]

Just bumped this thread to say that I ended up installing a Raymarine EV100 hydraulic autopilot on my Kevlacat.

[ranmar850]

The usual disclaimer about auto pilot use--someone at the helm, awake at all times, as you would if steering by hand. Except the pilot will do a much better job than anyone can at keeping a course. Particularly useful if strong wind or tide is involved. This is where you need to understand the difference beween steering a course and steering to an actual defined point. If set and drift is involved , the pilot will cpmpensate if you are steering to an actual waypoint, not just steering a course which you think will get you to the waypoint. With the Raymarine system, it is called Steer To Nav, or Steer To Heading. Steer to Heading is when you hit auto and it keeps steering you on the heading it saw when you hit Auto. Steer to Nav is when you select an actual waypoint and select Go To. Now, you can select that waypoint, see it's bearing from your current position, get the boat on that heading, and just hit Auto, it will steer that heading. And you will then realise exactly how Set and Drift affects your actual course attained. Unless there is zero wind and tide in play, you will not go to that waypoint. But if you select a waypoint, hit go to, and Steer To nav, you are locked onto that waypoint. it is quite amazing to see just how much the pilot is compensating--I've done a 35 mile run in strong wind and tide coming on the port bow quarter, and that heading cursor on the vessel was never any less than 10 degrees off the heading line drawn to that waypoint, often 20 degrees, to port. This was the pilot seeing the set and drift, and constantly compensating for it. I had an ocean horizon, nothing to visually head for, and a manually steered or autopilot heading steered course would have seen me miles off, steering a very pronounced curve to get to that point. But the pilot steered me straight to it, a significant saving in time and fuel.
I find the Raymarine system very good--have also set it up on another boat, very simple to commission, just works.

[Danf]

The unit works well at both trolling and planing speeds, although I have only tested it in smooth waters at this stage. Calibration was fairly straight forward, and once all settings were complete, the unit worked well with the pump not hunting too much to hold course. Different calibration settings definitely affect the response of the pump. I did fabricate a rudder feedback sensor as the Raymarine unit is around $450 and I read that it is prone to water ingress.