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Thread: Bilge Pumps

  1. #31

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    ppppppppppppp
    .......

  2. #32
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    In the Jungle/Mission Beach Hinterland

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    I don't even read your post i just skip them now
    Liar...you know where the ignore button is...

    Quote Originally Posted by Mopheus View Post
    Note that quite a few of the automatic pumps available right now operate on a timer circuit rather than a float switch. They come on every few minutes and measure current draw to determine whether the impeller is spinning freely in air or pumping water, and will run for a second or so before switching off (unless water is present in which case they pump until current drops).

    While I guess that solves the issue with jammed floats, I couldn't stand hearing it start every few minutes so paid the extra for a separate electronic switch. YMMV.
    Thanks for the info Morph..

    I have only had the ones with the float switch before...is the timer circuit more useful for boats in marinas or moorings ..?

  3. #33

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    Quote Originally Posted by disorderly View Post
    I have only had the ones with the float switch before...is the timer circuit more useful for boats in marinas or moorings ..?
    More reliable if you're on a mooring with solar power, I guess. There are still plenty of switched auto pumps (eg Rule-Mate) but it surprised me that some like the Rule Auto are timer-based instead. Just something to watch out for.

  4. #34

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    Hey Col once the fuel tank floor piece goes down there will be a piece of SS mesh getting siliconed over and around my cables etc so mo tree leafs can enter the bilge so no way of accessing the bilge to regularly check the pumps are working other than to flick the switches hence i chose manual over auto pumps

    I dont really wanna be going thru a bunch of dead leafs in the bilge we get huge red back spiders here and my bilge and fuel tank cavity will house a few females that i dont wanna mess with trying to clean a bilge out at the ramp if it every happened
    Gazza, I don’t think the SS mesh over bilge area is a good idea. It may stop the large leaves getting in but you will be surprised what will accumulate in the bilge area, and you’ll be regularly removing mesh to clean the area.

    I believe it’s best to have an accessible bilge, but that’s me.

    Best thing to do is ensure boat is always covered, and that’ll stop rubbish fall into boat. Good Luck


    Shakey - If only I lived near the coast

  5. #35

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    Fishing line, fish scales, general sand muck from getting in and out of the boat.
    you need to be able to get your hands around the pumps and even to remove and clean line sucked into them

    cover the boat at home, sounds like asking for trouble let alone sun damage on everything you’ve replaced
    pain in the arse but I managed to get a heavy silver tarp over the top of my half cabin on my own and used a heap of occy
    straps to hold it down

  6. #36

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    Not to late to cut my fuel tank cover into 2 pieces 1 for the bilge and 1 for the fuel tank cavity just means more messing around and it may look untidy

  7. #37

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    My take.

    Electronic bilge pumps.........2 from 2 failure rate - customer supplied. Won't be a third on my recommendation. Can't be installed on a "24 hour" circuit direct off the battery without some form of charging input if the boat is left unattended for lengthy periods. Over complication of a pretty simple system really. Bit of braid or other crap around the impeller to make it draw more current (far from uncommon) and it runs dry until someone notices or the battery goes flat.

    Float switches - they can fail but in my experience they are pretty reliable. Easily tested - even if it is with a a bit of wire with a hook on it or a length of mono/cord attached to lift the float . The one on my rig is original at 15 years old and is tested before each trip. We use them on the tugs for high water alarms - same deal - tested fortnightly as a general rule and most replacements are as a result of rough handling more so than electrical failure. Regardless of the type, your bilge does need to be kept clean.

    Pump failures - Depends on what fails. They can fail on auto , manual or both. Dash mounted switch fails courtesy of corrosion and pump may still run on auto via a float switch if it's not powered by the same source - this is the one "issue" with the auto/manual switch panels. If the switch fails - the auto most likely will too. If it's wired direct off a battery or the battery switch via an independent fuse, the auto function is independent of the dash switch.

  8. #38

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    ppppppppppppp
    .......

  9. #39

    Re: Bilge Pumps

    Got my pump, hose and skin fitting today a bit of info gone over the shoulder cant remember what the amp draw for the pump was but its labelled 3amps which i think ismore than i previously stated from the sellers web site, hose seems really shit quality one of those thin plastic ribbed hoses with set smooth lengths for cutting/hose clamps

    Need to order a 2nd one tho may change the hoses

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