Yep it is, I saw it advertised a few weeks ago, he was asked a few questions and didn't really answer them.
Yep it is, I saw it advertised a few weeks ago, he was asked a few questions and didn't really answer them.
Noel probably this placeOriginally Posted by Noelm
https://www.steelsupplyco.net
Isn’t port Kembla just up the road a bit. Surely somewhere around there sells the stuff
Shakey - If only I lived near the coast
Yep, Port Kembla is only 10 minutes away, that's where I am getting mine from, but, I need some light gauge C channel for a little job that doesn't need "quality"
Is is the place Noel http://juststeel.com.au/
There is a super cheap steel place in Minto but i suspect its Chinese steel as its so cheap
What welder have u settled on buying? Hope u dont go with boc
Going to use my stick welder to tack it all together and borrow my mates small MIG to fully weld it, confident using both systems.
If i was a bit closer i would loan u my EWM PICOMIG 180 since u helped me heaps thru my build
Got all my steel today, genuine Aussie steel, from a place in Port Kembla, it was $17 a length dearer than the "discount" places around Sydney, but they will cut it for free, and load it on for you, so in the end, a good deal, and only a 10 minute drive, I should take a couple of photos once I get it all set out, then after I weld it up.
After grinding and rooting around for ages, I have decided to replace the cross pieces as well, took me forever to carefully grind them off so I could try to reuse them, so I will pick up a length of 75X50 tomorrow, there's 6 of them, but I will use the back one because it has all sorts of brackets and things on it for lights and a roller each side, plus the guide ring mounting.
Might be easier going all new cross members as trying to cut each piece to within 1mm on a chop saw can be a real .... of a job and a real f... around when your doing multiple cross members
The thing is with chop saws tthe side u want to cut on your marking or line or usually feed the steel in from the left to right u need to account for the disc or blade thickness unless u feed the steel from the right to left but theres nothing holding the length up to the cutting bed height
Edit: read your going to get it pre cut thats a good option
No, cutting them myself, I just got the steel place to cut the lengths in half for easier transport.
Maybe weigh up your options on how much a whole new diy trailer will cost plus selling your old trailer vs salvaging old parts once u start welding your ganna have heaps of fun
I am building a near complete new trailer, all I am using now is the winch and frame, the entire suspension, brakes, axles, wheels, drawbar, coupling and other odds and ends like the stainless brake lines, spare wheel and carrier, lights and the skids. I will probably try to sell the remaining stuff from the old trailer, I have some stainless 12" roller shafts, about a dozen 12" rollers, a light board, 5 600X9 wheels and tyres, the frame will go for scrap unless someone wants it for some reason, still has about a month rego.
Just to clear something up, the cross pieces sit on top of the main frame, not inside it like a mono would, as I said before, cat trailers are easy to build, just lots of work getting everything flat and square, I went a bit overboard with the frame material, I went for 4mm wall thickness, it will be pretty strong, the 75X50 cross bits are 3mm. Just dreaming about the guide ring up the centre, not too sure how I will attack that yet, trying to scrounge up some 40mm pipe, I will make some gizmos to hold it and make them adjustable, was going for simple, fixed, but talked myself out of it, would make life easy though.
The center guide should be pretty easy to make u can hire a tube bender from places like kennards
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