Road trip. Steering movement. Engine support

[Brettoh]

Going on a 400 km road trip with the sailfish in tow.
I can comfortably tow with the engines in the full down position without the risk of dragging or hitting the skegs on the road . What I am concerned about is the engines moving on the steering from side to side loading up the hydraulic steering system. I have a single side mount ram connected to both engines.
The trailer is not able to accommodate outboard support brackets.

I wonder if I turn the steering full lock so that the steering ram is all the way in and then tie or strap the engines in that position?

Just had a thought. If I place a connecting hose between the 2 steering bleed nipples ( one on each end of the ram) and open both nipples the engines will be able to rock to and fro a little bit providing I tie the engine to the trailer to minimise movement without loading up the hydraulics. Does it work like that?

Any suggestions? I dont want to get to where I am going and find the steering ram leaking.

[shakey55]

I’m not much help here, but I would have thought tie them off to stop movement and all would be good. I’m sure someone with more knowledge on power steering will chime in here. Good luck on the trip


Sent from my iPad using Ausfish forums

[Dignity]

I have on long trips used pool noodles, cut to length and slit down the middle and slip them over the rams. Soft enough to force in yet surprisingly strong enough to stop the motors from turning.
Just remember to remove before launching, panic stations when you wonder why your steering doesn't budge.

You could also use a bungee cord onto the steering wheel, I have on longer trips hooked it to the staunchens of the bimini but the noodles will work for you.

[Noelm]

Wouldn't worry about it myself, if you can trailer with the motors in the trim position (not tilt) it will be fine.

[ranmar850]

Same here, you are overthinking it. In my experience, they tend to work over to one side then stay there. And, so what if they move? A slow movement is probably less stress on the system than you get in normal operation, it not like they are flopping loosely from side to side as they can with cable steering. I do trips of up to 2000km return, and would consider a 400km trip one way a short one.

[Brettoh]

Ranmar850, you are correct .
I am an overthinker. Sometimes its a strength and other times its a weakness.

I like to pool noodle idea, Might give that a crack as I have a few floating around here somewhere.

I am cautious because when I bought the boat the system dumped a lot of oil from the power steering ram on the journey. There was excessive air in the system before the journey started and that probably contributed but I am uncertain if the leak was due to an underlying issue or the 800 km journey.

[baitable]

Ranmar850, you are correct .
I am an overthinker. Sometimes its a strength and other times its a weakness.

I like to pool noodle idea, Might give that a crack as I have a few floating around here somewhere.

I am cautious because when I bought the boat the system dumped a lot of oil from the power steering ram on the journey. There was excessive air in the system before the journey started and that probably contributed but I am uncertain if the leak was due to an underlying issue or the 800 km journey.

Thats not normal mate.... Tow up to 1770 from Brisbane and not a single drop of oil ever from the ram.. id say you have other issues.

[stevej]

On. decent roads it doesn’t matter if your going 20 or 2000kms
what’s the difference between 20 local trips and one big trip

rams don’t leak oil unless something is worn out

[scottar]

It's not uncommon for steering rams to "leak down" over time during transport when the weight of the block is applied constantly in a full tilt up situation. Leaving the motors at a lower angle as mentioned alleviates a lot of the weight. It's extremely abnormal though to get a puddle of fluid. There is something either not done up, damaged or simply aged to the point of no longer sealing. The seals in the ram can be damaged if there are any marks in the piston rod or they can simply harden with age and no longer seal properly. The bleed nipples could be loose or the fittings on the hoses themselves or the threads into the ram may not have been sealed properly at installation or have been moved after the sealant had dried.

[Brettoh]

Hi all, I have replaced that Ram with a new one so that issue is resolved. As for decent roads. Well we are talking about the Bruce Highway . Yep thats the road that is so rough that it shook the allow bullbar on my Iveco Daily so much that it failed in 2 places to the point where I had to support it with straps to complete the journey. lol
Thank you for all of your answers

Ill be transporting like this Screenshot (510).jpg

[Greg P]

I use a steering stop from TH marine. These are for Seastar cylinders so not sure what you have (Hydrive or Seeastar). You can order these from CH Smith locally for about $60.

I think someone has a local copy now (Haines or BLA)

https://thmarinesupplies.com/product...-steering-lock

[Dignity]

I use a steering stop from TH marine. These are for Seastar cylinders so not sure what you have (Hydrive or Seeastar). You can order these from CH Smith locally for about $60.

I think someone has a local copy now (Haines or BLA)

https://thmarinesupplies.com/product...-steering-lock

I would hate to have reversed off the trailer and find I'd forgotten to take that gizmo off and have no steering, ask me how I know. With a $4 pool noodle it is much easier and I was surprised at how stiff they were when on, I just could not turn the steering wheel, fortunately I just ripped them straight off before any damage done to any vessels etc, all except my pride that is.

[Mopheus]

One additional thought - tilting the outboards puts the powerhead behind the transom and balances the outboard (somewhat) over the transom. That means the outboard fixing bolts at rest are acting mainly in shear and not much in tension, which is the strongest arrangement for both the bolts and the transom (as it minimises torsion over the span of the transom). Transients over bumps will of course change this while underway, but you're at least starting from a near-zero tension/torsion 'at rest' point.

I'm not saying that travelling with the outboards down is bad - it might be absolutely fine - but there is a logical reason for transporting them in tilted position other than just ground clearance.

[Noelm]

In the trim position is the best position, providing you have road clearance, the motor and mounts are designed to operate that way, tilted up you need some kind of motor support, the tilt rams are not load carrying and can move all over the place on rough roads.

[Mopheus]

In the trim position is the best position, providing you have road clearance, the motor and mounts are designed to operate that way, tilted up you need some kind of motor support, the tilt rams are not load carrying and can move all over the place on rough roads.

Agree you definitely can't rely on the rams for support. Whether the tilt lock mechanism is rated for trailering depends on the outboard - my old Suzuki DT85 refers to the lock arm as the 'Trailering lock arm' in the service manual. Other outboards specifically state that the lock arm is for servicing only and not for trailering.