designing a boat - A moose kiwi story

[chocolatemoose]

Good points, thanks for that
the waste hose is always on the outside of the transom and leads down to the lower area. but i might see what we can design up with a drain hose ducted into the boats overflow

I am trying to find if we can get the rodholder/cup holder units in alloy

Partially for weight. a boat of this size with what we would want inside would be hard to replicate in glass for the weight we require. and the beauty of alloy being a lot more customizable in the computer and build stage than making new moulds

[chocolatemoose]

speaking of transoms

We wanted something a bit different from the usual. i really like the portofino style transoms seen on euro boats often and a bit of curve and flare is appriciated for sure.
As mentioned earlier we also liked this centre walk through idea instead of a port or stardboard door. this gives us two even compartments either side. Well one had to be the livewell for sure and the other we wanted use for tackle storage
The motif with this boat is that everything had to have a "home" we didnt want open pockets anywhere , places where things just get chucked. we wanted everything to be neat m, tidy. and lockable.

The live well
Its 70lt with a folding baffle/devider in the middle should it be needed. We opted not to paint the interior owing to it just being hard to get it to keep that colour and a prick to ever repaint. so instead we just planed for a raw acid washed nylac allumiun with blue LED lights. the lid does slope down a bit , this overall shape does reduce the amount of water we can have but "BEAUTY IS PAIN"
We did cleverly get the overflow and drain plumbed down and into the Scupper tubes. so we wouldnt have water flowing over the back of the boat onto the swim platform or over the side of the boat onto the paint work.
There is a stylish viewing window on the inside of the transom

The tackle storage locker
We work very closely with Plaztek in qld. they have done several boards for us in the past "after we decided that making them ourselves was just not economical" And we have enlisted them to come up with a tackle storage locker that suits our dimensions
we had about 500x 500x 700 to play with and liked the cupboard door idea . when open having a rack of slide out draws on one side and Plano tackle storage slides on the other. locked behind a single lock door.
This was more cost effective than our fabricator producing it in alloy and supports another australian manufacture.

under the transom on the left is a receptical for the salt water wash down hose. and on the right is a tilted storage locker to fit a folded up freezer bag "name a brand, they are all the same" the centre of the transom holds 110lt fresh water tank

[Out-Station]

Hey Moose, i recon put a little insulated bait cooler where you have the sink under the bait board for the bait thats "in play". Sink up the front, dirty hands down the back, clean hands up front!!

Is the hull much like the Nautic Star plumb bow designs? Love it, hove you keep going with the the thread as it evolves.

Scott

[ranmar850]

Now i do belive you are a celebrity mr speaking on ABC radio Ranmar

and beauty i guess is in the eye of the beholder lol

Yes, had my 30 seconds of fame....as you say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Stabi's make me want to go blind.

[chocolatemoose]

Hey Moose, i recon put a little insulated bait cooler where you have the sink under the bait board for the bait thats "in play". Sink up the front, dirty hands down the back, clean hands up front!!

Is the hull much like the Nautic Star plumb bow designs? Love it, hove you keep going with the the thread as it evolves.

Scott

similar but different. Nautic star are closer to axopar than the Herley. but yeah they are both "plumb" in a way.

we do have some interesting plumbing on board. Forward in the saloon is a galley hot and cold water sink and a hot and cold sink in the forward Head. Though to keep the dirty hands and all that in the buisness end we were looking to include a couple of these knee or hip activated timed hand wash systems over the side of the boat. seen them a few times on some other boats and they look liek a very neat solution!

[Lovey80]

How do those hand wash systems work? Are they available in Australia?

[chocolatemoose]

Yeah we sell them in a few guises. They are a timmed valve "think public toilet lighting" where you press on the button with... what ever. hip. knee. bum and you get 30 seconds of water out the side of the boat to wash your hands.. without having to touch anything

[Lovey80]

Could they just as easily be plumbed into the deck wash for salt water use?

[Crocodile]

Hello Moose,
an interesting project for sure, but I wonder at the conflicting principles.
Shallow vee with deep forefoot is good for low speeds ~ 16-20 knots, any faster and the hull skims on the flatter aft sections resulting in dreadful pounding.
50 knots is racing speeds and very few racing boats have deep forefoots, they can dig in and cause a spin out.
A deep forefoot can cause a boat to broach in a following sea, I know I have done it.
All in all if it had say twin 100s for a 18 knot cruise with a top of 25 in calm water very nice but 50 knots is overdoing it on that hull.

If you look at high speed offshore monohulls they all look like Edencraft, Cootacraft etc.
Very deep vee to soften the re-entry after becoming airborne which is unavoidable at speeds over about 25 knots.
I fear that your client may be disappointed with the outcome.

[chocolatemoose]

Could they just as easily be plumbed into the deck wash for salt water use?

yeah any plumbing fitting "except fuels obviously" lol. on this boat we have a salt water and a fresh water one. one on either side

[chocolatemoose]

Hello Moose,
an interesting project for sure, but I wonder at the conflicting principles.
Shallow vee with deep forefoot is good for low speeds ~ 16-20 knots, any faster and the hull skims on the flatter aft sections resulting in dreadful pounding.
50 knots is racing speeds and very few racing boats have deep forefoots, they can dig in and cause a spin out.
A deep forefoot can cause a boat to broach in a following sea, I know I have done it.
All in all if it had say twin 100s for a 18 knot cruise with a top of 25 in calm water very nice but 50 knots is overdoing it on that hull.

If you look at high speed offshore monohulls they all look like Edencraft, Cootacraft etc.
Very deep vee to soften the re-entry after becoming airborne which is unavoidable at speeds over about 25 knots.
I fear that your client may be disappointed with the outcome.

Totally agree. its a bit of an advise and caution situation. we fluid dymantic tested the hull. without apendiges, the hull needs 340hp for 43knotts. and 375hp with apendages. for 45knotts. i am extremely comfortable running this with twin 250;s low end props to aid the joystick steering. and keeping her at a 40knott max boat with a very economical 31knott cruise IMO

[chocolatemoose]

The helm /dash and seat

So we wanted something a bit more 3 dimensional than standard dashes. i do a bit of work for riviera and always loved the captain position in larger boats. i figured build the geogramtry around a comfortable secure seating position when driving.

We were also rather limited on space behidn the dash due to the forward bunk rod storage. As such we wanted to keep everything to a minium behind the helm, and then have all the eletronics in a dedicated eletronics area under the helm seat.
In the dash we would have our Garmin 8416 with 2x HKI sigital switching panels. our Yamaha CL5 guage. our Quic kGyro display, zipwake controller, yamaha autopilot controller.. all of these ocnnect via NMEA2K or Ethernet. so the plan is to have a NEAM2K bus behind the helm and we should end up "even with joystick, steering etc" a rather small collection of cables coming out of the helm.



On the plynth we would have the yamaha joystick and a cup holder.
Getting whats what where it needed to be was a bit of just a case of moving things around to see where they would fit.. and where they would be easy to operate from. especially from a sitting position.
The helm seat itself was going to be able to tilt forward. exposing a 240 induction cook top and extra counter space for the galley. so we looked at ways to have the armrest on the starbaord side fold along with it.
the arm rest was going to house the throttles. the GRID garmin remote , wireless charging dock for phones . we moved around the joystick, zipwake etc from all these locations a fewtimes

The one thing i was really keen on with this design was to NOT use an off the shelf standard marine seat.. even if we could retrim.. i wanted to have something solid and build to the design of the boat. whilst being stupidly comfy and big to sit in "im no little person nor is the client" i reflected a bit on my caribbean 2400 build we did 2 years ago where their OEM seats are built in house and are crazy comfy. big wide solid secure. its a bit like your nanas couch

So with that in mind though i did want to have an arm rest on either side to hold you in place as well as give you somewhere to lay your elbows. the port side had to be folding to allow easy egress etc to the seat. when looking at attatchment options for the hinge on the seat we felt it look better to run a polished stainless frame around the back of the whole chair. this would also double as a bit of a splash guard for the sink behind. we havnt yet decided on any logos or names etc for this piece yet.

i almost forgt the compass in the dash at one point. so. popped that in real quick.

[chocolatemoose]

Digitial switching

At first i was relucant to opt for digital switching in lew ofjust a very simple and neat bespoke wiring install . with then the option of having some pretty nice custom switch panels as well.

However as more and more components and systems were added to the build "acturators, motor drives, various lighting systems etc." and with less and less room behind the dash we re opened the discussion with czone and their sister brands as to what we could do for this boat

BEP recently released a new Smart Hub battery switch system, that combinds their motorized switches and czone battery monitoring into one super neat unit


These are an amazing piece of kit that are really seeing a lot of traction in the US centre console scene with tripple engine fit ups, Ours with only twins would mean we would have a centre battery switch left empty. though BEP came through wit hthe goods and informed us they are bringing out a dual engine version. which we will likley be the first in Australasia to have installed pretty happy with that.

Back to the switching side of things.

yes we will be able to have it programed into our Garmin MFD. which yeah is all well and good but only really effective on larger vessels. though various "mode" functions are kinda handy, ... pressing one button o nthe screen for "night time mode" etc.


But the client and i agree that having physical buttons that you can easily see/activate is nicer.

THOUGH! the Czones contact 6/12 buttons IMO look pretty terrible

And there was no way i was going to let them be part of this dash design.
We also work with another digital switching company "Blink Australia:" who do produce a very neat compact switching system, and they were on my consideration list for this build. however a few things swayed me to Czone
1. Czones access to fuses in their COI and Contact panels is alot easier
2. Czone allwos for up to 16 circuits in their COI systems where as other modules are only 6 to 8 depending on amps
3. we can intergrate our czone switching with Siren marine or Cenital marine cloud based vesse monitoring and control the boatsoperation from anywhere in the world
4. Czone can intergrate easily with our mastervolt inverter, charger, lithium battery set up etc

we opted then instead to use the HMI PKU switches "same style as blink but with NMEA2K czone intergration" these switches are a lot nicer, more tactile. they allow RGB illumination and programming with thousands of symbols and words. plus various surrounds to allow us to style it to the boat


The plan will be for 2 12 ways on the dash and a single 8 way out in the cockpit.
we can program these switches to have slow starts for pumps "ramp up the current instead of full current straight away to protect their life span" multi mode per switch. so press one for live well timmed to 5 mins. press again for live well timed for 8 minuites. press again for live well on full, press again to turn off.. all with different colours to indicate what state its at.
can even have the winch switch timmed so press the down button twice to lower the anchor a certain length "anchors in the same depth/body of water often"

hold a light switch button down for dimming , press again to turn back to full brightness or off. that sort of stuff.

all in all. just fun toys for sure

[chocolatemoose]

Just a sneak peak at a final render

[chocolatemoose]

Gyro choice!

One of the msut have no questions ask solutions the client wanted for this build was a gyro built in. one of the main reasons some of his family memebers have been reluctant to venture out on his current boat is the sideways rolling in wave and swell.

I have been keen as mustad to get a gyro in one of my builds, and whilst i did look originally at seakeeper i ultimately went with Quick . for a few reasons

the Quick MC2 DC range is aircooled. meaning we dont have to worry about salt water to fresh water heat exchangers, pumps, anodes and all other asociated plumbing. it also means we can cool down and spin up faster.
The system is cube in design making it crazy easy to factory in to a design,
Whilst it does use a bit of power, it still doesnt use as much as other systems, and most importantly. it makes nearly twice the torque of the same size seakeaper system.



The system is controlled by a 5" colour touch screen, however we will have it networked into the garmin so it can be controlled from there as well.

The hull itself is rather stable in design anyway, especially with abeam fuel tanks and twin engines. but a gyro will just take that little edge thats left and smooth it out.

Powering the Gyro we have two 200ah lithium mastervolt batteries. along with 300w of solar and both engines 70amp alternators helping out. so we should be good for a long along run time.

Order was placed yesterday for this gyro, it will be one of the first boats in australia to recieve one. so very excited to get it going and reviewing it
below are some numbers crunched by Quick on our boats dimensions for their smaller x2 and our X3. they are both the same weight and size, just higher RPM