Originally Posted by
ranmar850
As to connecting a bunch of 12v up in series, you are increasing voltage string, not a/h capacity. Connect 20 in series. , you get 240v, but still only 100a/hrs of capacity. Connect 20 in parallel, you have 12v and 2000a/hr capacity. Well, 2000 amp hours from 12v seems like a lot, until you start using inverters. The sums are pretty simple as a rule of thumb--take the 240v current draw, then to run that same load off a 12v/240v inverter, you multiply the 240v draw by 20. So that kettle you think nothing of turning on, is generally 2.4kw. Most heating element stuff you can run off a socket outlet is rated for the max of that outlet, ie, 2400kw or 10 amps @ 240v. So that kettle is now drawing 200 amps from your 12 v system. Ok, it only runs for a few minutes, but you get the point. 300 amp/hr systems are very popular nowadays in small caravans, running 2.5kw-3 kw inverters, made much more effective by the adoption of LiFePo4 batteries. 600-800 watts of solar on the roof, DC-DC charger to bring them up if you are travelling. A basic system like this will cost you $10K in parts, before instal. That's buying ready made stuff. And currently, installers are hard put to keep up with demand. But, even at that size, you can only run the little AC if it's hot, nothing else, unless the van is cooled right down and is only cycling, you might get away with running the coffee machine. Or trip the inverter if the AC compressor cuts in while you are doing it. If you want to go truly off-grid and run off batteries, and not be running a gennie to charge them, you need to be very smart about energy useage.And lay off the inverters. As for getting 100a/hr deep cycles for $200 ea, you'll be getting rubbish that will likely last less than 3 years. Inverters kill old chemistry batteries pretty quick, they hate being drawn right down. Even the good ones are down to 50% of their original capacity after 500 cycles or so, will vary. And that 100 a/hr is actually only a useable 50a/hr.
Off-grid energy is actually a pretty simple equation--how much will you use in 24 hours, how much can you get back from your solar or whatever? If using the old chemistry, you need to put back in 1.1 to 1.2 times the energy you drew down. If using LiFePo4, it's so close to 1 to 1 it doesn't matter. And you can draw down to 20%, this is where the exaggerated claims of LIPO 100ah being the same as 200ah of AGM come from--its more like 150 ah in reality. From better quality stuff, not the $400 ebay specials. So, if you use 100 ah every 24 hrs, which isn't much, just a couple of Engels, one as a freezer, and some LED lights, phone charging, etc, and are relying on solar, you need to get 100ah back during available day light hours. If you have a perfectly sunny site, no shading, and track the sun, you can count on about 7 hours of max output per day. Plus a little bit at each end.So you just need 12 amps of steady solar, whch you can get from around 240 watts of panel. But bear in mind that, while you can pull a LIPO battery way down before the voltage drops, you are not doing it any favours in the longevity stakes. Regular deep discharging then charging back up to 100% is the worst thing you can do. If you can keep them between, say 60% and 90%, you will get very good life. This comes from generalised scientific research on the chemistry, not manufacturer's claims. In fact, the chemistry can last an infinite length of time,unlike old chemistry, if managed correctly. Temp, both high and very low, is important. It's a field I find very interesting, since I got the solar bug about 10 years ago, and LIPO batteries are a game-changer. I'm just changing over from the old AGM Fullrivers, after 8-9 years of hard use they are shot. Not complaining--I can replace them for $700 for the pair, but a 150ah LIPO is costing $1419, and will outlive the AGMS , as well as giving better performance, at a weight saving of 40kg for the batteries alone.