mmmm. not sure. i can view it when i click on it.
mmmm. not sure. i can view it when i click on it.
We cannot and thats the problem..............
What could go wrong.......................
You only have so much vertical distance from the transom height to the exhaust outlets
I personally dont think heavier plywood, glass, cloth couldimpact it so much the exhaust ports will be submerged
You have a ton of bouyancy inside the hull as in air you would be close to water coming in over the transom if it were over the exhaust ports
Have u checked your transoms finished height and checked where your cavitation plate sits?
Try using the go advanced tab to add the pictures. I get the same result if I don't and try to add pictures.
Making the assumption the design of the transom wasn't changed it can't really be anything but the weight of the glass and potentially denser timber than original. Short of being able to lift the motor sufficiently, the only real options are bolt on buoyancy pods in the form of transom steps or add a pod with the extra buoyancy required unless you can shift enough weight forward. He didn't re do the under floor tank position or anything similar at the time? He must have added a fair bit of glass to get enough weight for a 75 to be down that low on that hull - unless the transom was shortened.
Scott a Gazza are where I was headed, it would take a considerable amount to make that much difference, something else has caused the issue.
Re your pics, sometimes if you've moved/removed the pic soon after posting that "Attachment" error shows up for other users.
Neal this is pretty common but did u forget to put the bungs in the new transom?
I had a leaky hull in my last little boat and the bilge cavity below the floor filled with water and done exactly what you are experiencing
I removed my bung cleaned it up than epoxy glued the bung back in and my hull was water tight after that
thanks for the replies.
i have experimented with heights until it cavitated. its more about the boats arse end being heavy. when i take off, whether its slow or fast, trim down, the nose comes up heaps more than it used to until up on the plane. i use twice as much fuel as before. and yes, i had to sikaflex nylon boards cut out around the motor to stop water coming into my motor well even on a small wave at the back end as it was much lower. i am not complaining about the workmanship of the transom repairer, he did a fantastic job. i believe its beefed up too much. i just wondered if there were any tips on correcting a heavy stern without breaking the bank. i like the sound of the buoyancy pods and will look more into them, although its adding more weight.
Built properly they will add more flotation than weight. They will need to follow the lines of the hull and should reduce the bow rise during take off as well.
I just can’t see that you could use different wood, more glass and more resin to the point that it now makes the aft end of the boat noticeably heavier, and even to the point of adding 80 kgs forward and still no difference.
Is it possible that the builder reduced the transom height by mistake, for example - what was once a 20 inch transom is now an 18 inch transom, which would have the motor sitting lower in the water.
Just trying to put things out there, as I find this scenario extremely strange
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Hi, i still have more mount holes for the motor to go higher but i am at my limit as it will cavitate if i go higher
Try reposting your picture as I can't see it either, once up I'm sure a few on here would spot the problem
Attachment 122415last time trying to post pic.
Doesn't seem to want to work unfortunatelyOriginally Posted by nealeboy
Neal
May I refer you to the links in post 14.
Using the method and tools described will give a result.
What could go wrong.......................
heavy back end.jpg ok i have tried the other way now. lets see???
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