Exploring the idea of putting a casting deck up the front of my platey- but with painted sides would prefer to not have to weld the frame in.
Not sure how to go about it to get any decent structural strength/longevity in it.
Anyone tried/done it before and come up with a good solution?
cheers,
Moffy.
I did one in my last tinnie by using pine studs, a length of heavy angle and ply - all sealed with decking oil. Was there for years.
Savage Stern View resized.JPG
Nice One Scottar - how’d you attach it to the hull?
it’s own weight would have held it thereOriginally Posted by Moffy
just confirming you don’t want it removable, just don’t want to have to weld it ?
most decks arnt welded to the side sheet anyway if your worried about paint blisters
weld in braces make some hatches and get it done properly first time
Hey moffy you can use some double sided tape there are some expensive tapes that are bloody incredible strong i once used this tape that was 8mm wide it was for hobby use i had never seen a tape so strong trying to remove it destroyed what it was placed onto
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My Webster twinfisher casting deck is all bolted in. I did get some welding done to reinforce the part that I cut out to create extra room but that was purely my preference. Can't find the old photos and the ones from the thread I did on it have disappeared
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/sho...=casting+deckv
Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.
Good idea Gazza. I had a similar problem when replacing a door frame and double sided tape to the aluminium sheet was used rather than welding. Still going after 8 years. SS
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LOL. Most definitely not. This boat saw a lot of bar crossing and bluewater action despite it's size which was part of the reason for the platform - a really good storage area for tackle boxes etc that was totally lockable when we went away.
The bottom of the vertical wall was attached with bolts that were tapped into the back wall of the original thwart seat. There was a length of angle bolted to the bottom of the rear vertical face of the foredeck. There was no attachment to any sheeting. There was another angle across the forward face of the vertical wall with 4 pine braces forming the frame between the two bits of angle - small rebates cut into them to get everything at the right heights - one as close as possible to each side and two in the middle under the cuts in the deck that formed a centre hinged hatch. The outer sections were also removable but weren't hinged. They lifted up at the back and then slide towards the stern for removal.
I wouldn't personally rely on tape in a marine environment. I would be polyurethane bedding and drill and tap if you never want to remove it. Have you got a photo of the front area of your cockpit?
Thanks for all feedback!
Haven’t got a pic showing Looking forward - pissing down here at the moment and all tarped up. but here’s one looking backwards.
It’s a Fisher Maxi 600 - full checker plate sealed floor - so not keen on penetrating the floor. You can see the reverse chines on the left that come through the floor up forward - would take some mucking around to build a frame that fits in on all surfaces neatly and is still level ( was thinking mega amounts of sika might hold an otherwise unfixed frame in if I built something to sit in place.
not concerned about internal paint - but hull is painted externally with dark grey metal flake paint and any welding would require a re- paint or a wrap. Not keen on spending that - just want to use the forward space better - foredeck is nearly waist height pulling the anchor (or worse for my taller crew.....) and a casting deck (with storage underneath) would be great!!would also help lock in my 300l esky that sits in front of console for big trips.D59C3896-3C9C-4D2C-A2DD-2F4F665F2803.jpeg
cheers,
Moffy.
Pic didn't work Moffy but there are some good pics here
https://boats.tradeaboat.com.au/Reviews/7463/Fisher_595_Maxi_Series_Revie
If you are happy to bolt through the front bulkhead, a length of angle at the height of the platform and then a couple of braces or better still a rectangular frame with another length of angle across the back, bolted to the bulkhead and sika'd to the floor and you're away.
Edit - pic works now.
The lower frame could be made to the shape of the floor as another option
Thanks for an idea Scottar. I am planning a bow compartment in my 6.2 CC to house two lithium batteries for an electric motor. It is not meant to be weight bearing but inevitably someone will stand on it to cast. I have a similar issue to Moffy with uneven floor from reverse chine hull. I was planning to use double sided tape to secure alloy angle mould to hull and bolt across bulkhead to avoid welding to painted hull. Will then use new floor covering to seal compartment plate edges against floor and hull. SS
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