TRAILER BUNK MATERIAL Questions for Ranmar

[The Mad Cat]

Just about to build a new trailer for a Whittley Clearwater 2100. I really like Ranmars trailer design (photo attached) hope you don't mind Ranmar.
What is the bunk covered with?
Any marks on the hull from the bunks?
Do you drive on or only winch on?
Is there anything you would change on the trailer?
I could have sent Ranmar a pm but thought I would involve everyone for their opinions as well.

TMC Ranmars trailer 1.jpg

[inveratta]

yeh...this is very similar to where I have ended up..I presume those are teflon or similar strips on the inclining guides.

I added guide posts inserted into the rear horizontal....adjustable with a bolt lock and drive on is a breeze...basically the boat cant end anywhere except the middle..unless you try really hard!

As my boat has a running plank the guides actually feed to roller height so there is not an "edge" probably not so much a problem if your hull has a V shape keel

The main difference is that the bunks are more central on the trailer so that they only engage and stabilise the hull towards the end of loading...or disengage near the start of unloading..

The bunks were made in 2005 and are redgum! covered with marine carpet , very simple....I have found the odd wash and spray with silicon helps keep them clean and slippy enough.

I like the safe steps at the back and wire mesh at the front of the trailer.

Again in my case we use the mudguards for access ..and it pays to have some sort of anti slip on the top.

[tunaticer]

I use 40mm poly pipe screwed to the runners.
Super slippery and has give in it to not damage or mark the hull.
Drill 13mm hole in the top and use stainless screws through the bottom side into the boards.

[The Mad Cat]

I use 40mm poly pipe screwed to the runners.
Super slippery and has give in it to not damage or mark the hull.
Drill 13mm hole in the top and use stainless screws through the bottom side into the boards.

I can see how that would work well Jack.
Is your boat glass or aluminium?

TMC

[gazza2006au]

3 years ago it was mentioned these were ok for glass and aluminium boats https://roxom.com.au/shop/boat-trail...r-bumper-cover they have removed some words as to what boats they are for now

I was going to get the last blue model for my trailer



Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

[The Mad Cat]

I have read that the blue ones can mark a glass hull but don't know if that's correct.
I see Ranmar is around, (probably been on one of his amazing fishing trips) he might chime in with his opinion

TMC

[ranmar850]

Hey, sorry, didn't notice this thread until this morning The material on the guide strips just feels like the blue stuff, maybe a bit slipperier? I mostly drive on--obviously the best way is to hit the rubber rollers first, but, if you don't, doesn't seem to be an issue. The guides with the white stuff are just that, guides. If you get a bit sideways, which isn't hard if you come in hot needing the speed for steering if it is windy, the guides will just self-centre --back off the power, and the hull just slides back down onto the rollers. Then drive up the rest of the way. So they are not in contact apart from that time the keel is sliding back onto the rollers. Where that white stuff is in constant contact with the hull is the v-cradle right up the front--blow up the pic, and you can see it forward of the front-most roller. The hull rests on this when it is fully on- it locks the bow into its final position with respect to everything else. I trailer this boat on some shocking roads--I'm talking about roads which they have given up on, can't be graded. Rock outcrops, washaways, and massive corrugations. Followed up by two-wheel station track which gets heavy traffic. One such road can take me over 3 hours to do the 52 km total length. So that front v-cradle is in hard contact with the hull getting flogged by corrugations from your worst nightmare. The first time I pulled it over that road, I found the white stuff had actually melted a bit, but the hull was unmarked. I just cut the dags off with a knife, and are still using it.
As for the rest of the fittings, I changed a couple of things up front for trailering on the bad stuff. Because I fitted an L&R boatlatch, I needed to change the stop up on the winch post. I tried a rubber V-block first, but it wore through quite quickly, almost got down to the through-bolt first trip, so that was no good. I then replaced it with a red V-block, and that has held up well. it does mark very slightly, but that would be down to my useage--most people wouldn't see a mark. I also had to re-arrange everything bolted to the winch post. It had the spare mounted to it, and the brake controller right up the top. I lost the battery-twice -from the flogging, and cracked the mounting plate. too much weight up high. Took the spare mount off it, slid the mounting plate for the controller right to the bottom, and fitted a clamp on the battery case, no more problems. The spare is going on a swing-down carrier. Of course, this wouldn't have needed doing for more normal useage.
Just one final thing I discovered--pretty obvious really, but worth mentioning. I found it harder and harder to drive on, more power needed over a couple of years. So I dropped the boat off at the ramp, and went home and greased all the roller pins. Huge difference, so easy. I had tended to thing that the fact they were largely wet would take care of things, but actual grease makes a big difference. It just glides up.

[The Mad Cat]

Thank Ranmar.
What is the black stuff on the bunks?
Still happy with the Merc 150?
You must have a few hours up now, I'm still under 100 hours almost 2 years now. We missed a few good opportunities with Covid lock downs.

TMC

[ranmar850]

The black stuff is just pine timber, with carpet glued on. Yes, still happy with the 150 Merc--my hours have been down a bit this year due to covid and other factors, and I am just touching 600 hours total--going to try to fit a few days liveaboard up at Shark Bay next week if we get a weather window, then the 600 hour service before I head to Exmouth for a week in November. Would i buy the 150 again on this boat? I've had zero problems, it does a good job of pushing this heavy rig along, and the only time I ever want a 200 ( max transom) is on very long glass calm trips home. If I'm in a hurry, I run at 4500, which gives me around 27 knot cruise at good consumption-- a 200 would give me a 30 knot cruise. But, as the ocean arounfd here normally limits you to a low 20's cruise, the power is enough. certainly not slow off the mark, no need to alter trim in to get it up and going . Screen shot from a flat calm run across Exmouth Gulf back in July.




It actually uses a totally consistent 1.2l/nm from 3900 up to 4500 rpm, so there is little gained by slowing down a lot--you need to go back to 3500-3700 to get 1.0 to 1.1 l/nm. For those who use the other way of looking at it, 1.2l/nm is 1.54 nm/l Or for those of you who don't understand that kilometres don\'t exist below the high water mark () 2.85km/litre. I reckon that's fine pushing a boat which is 2 tonne in the water with 2 POB and an average amount of gear.

[gazza2006au]

From what i have read over the years the blue plastic bunks are good to use untill u scratch them than slide a fibreglass hull across them and the scratch marks leave sharp edges on the bunks which in return chew up a glass hull

Duck down to a boat ramp and have a geeze at a trailer with the blue plastic bunks

In the sort of old days blue was always for aluminium, red and black was for fibreglass but these days u get all different colors in the plastic bunks

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app