BOAT MODS | BLUE BONE and an UNLIKELY MUD CRAB THIEF - Ep 27 - Bing video
Info on another option for 36 volt Minn Kota's starts at about the 26 minute mark. Know nothing else about it apart from what is featured.
BOAT MODS | BLUE BONE and an UNLIKELY MUD CRAB THIEF - Ep 27 - Bing video
Info on another option for 36 volt Minn Kota's starts at about the 26 minute mark. Know nothing else about it apart from what is featured.
Thanks Scottar that was an interesting watch.Originally Posted by scottar
Shakey - If only I lived near the coast
interesting info and tidy setup....
Is ease of charging the reason why the batteries are hooked up in in parallel and a boost converter then used to step the 12v bank up to 36v...?
I have a 150ah Amptron,--- the 100amp discharge model, not the 200amp version---installed in my camper. I re-did everything to suit lithium in the setup. I have given it some really deep discharge tests, and it delivers what it promises. Not had it for long, but no complaints so far. I wouldn't touch those Voltax cheapies, the one I have seen stripped down are made with the small cyclindrical cells all spot welded together , which give you about a million possible points of failure just in that aspect alone.
On the subject of battery monitoring , I bought one of those cheap chinese AiLi shunt monitors. No BT, just a gauge and shunt, bought it after seeing people use them for a number of years with no problems. I have BT on apps for my Victron charger, and both Renogy DC-DC /MPPT chargers, one in the backseat of the spacecab , and the other in the camper. I was going to go for the Victron shunt monitor, but couldn't really justify the outlay, $70 vs $250 or more for the same functionality minus the BT. As you say, BT is cool, but sometinmes you just want to look at a gauge and see what your battery percentage is when you get up in the morning
I might have mentioned somewhere I was looking at a Baintech Slimline lithium for boat and car duties. I bought one, mounts in the spacecab behind the Engel. I didn't buy the 120ah with the built-in DC-DC, just a plain 75ah. I can move it between ute and boat if I am camping onboard, the Renogy DC-DC is pluggable, so that goes with it. It will be handy for running the pie warmer late in the afternoon after being shut down for a while and the solar is gone. I currently have a regular lead acid start battery working as a house, and you need to conserve energy at night if you want to run the fridge.
I think the main reason is voltage control. There has to be a certain amount of loss through the converter but that may be of lesser concern than the over voltage factor that some MKs have suffered from.
TMC
PS. How did you go with the cyclone Ranmar?
Thanks for that link Scott, tidy setup and something to think about. I'm assuming $6-7K includes the batteries.
Well, the house is still standing, unlike many. Massive damage, all the news reports aren't overstating it at all. I'll post up a few pics the show how high the storm surge got.
You would want to hope so but I don't know. You would have to give them a ring.
That’s good news. Looked very ordinary on the TV.
I’m also wondering if the 7amps per hour on spot lock, is that drawing from the 300amp hours worth of batteries or does it work that at 36v it’s three times that? Does he have 300/7=42.85 hours at that draw before his batteries are dead or 100/7=14.28hours. This stuff I find it hard to get my head around when we start talking converters etc.
the reason I am asking is that I’m seriously considering going to one of the new trolling motors from Garmin/Lowrance. They are 24/36 volts. No 12v options. Still have to do lot of research on that before making a decision.
Ranmar, how would you think one of those 75ah Slimline Baintech batteries would go for a start battery on a 60hp outboard?
Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.
Easiest way with conversion to get round numbers is to convert to watts - volts X amps, then divide by the converter output volts to give the output current draw. It's an approximate number as it doesn't allow for conversion loss which always exists to some extent. As a fudge factor I allow 5%. The 7 amp value given will depend where it was measured - the most logical being on the 12 volt line as that's the value that really matters in this configuration as that is the battery voltage.
Yeah I'd go with Scottar's version..
The shunt for the monitor is most likely hooked up to the terminals on the 12 volt bank...
Whereas on mine the batteries are hooked up in series creating a 36v battery without converter....
the conditions his boat is in also looks consistent with that 7 amp reading at 12v as using 7 amps on my 36v system would mean i was in choppy conditions or with quite strong current..
That victron battery monitor bluetoothed to your phone is well worth the $250.
What are the Garmins worth..?
So we are talking 300/7=42hours of run time?
The Garmin run to 5 grand and I’m thinking with lithium’s that I can’t justify the total spend. All I really need is maybe a 55lb electric with spot lock and 12v for a little 4.3m Webster Twinfisher. It’ll mostly be used in the creeks with the odd day in the bay or on a really good day, close in offshore. Ie 12knots of breeze or less.
Currently my start battery is on the floor at the back of the boat below small live bait tank. If the 75amp slimline is appropriate as a start battery that would be fantastic as I can mount it on the starboard side under the gunwhale. Anyone have thoughts on that.
Then a 150amp slimline under the console should be more than plenty to run the electrics, lights and trolling motor.
I guess I need to decide on what trolling motor also.
Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.
Yep.
I think my basic setup was around $5500 for 36v motor and Lithiums, circuit breaker, wiring, Victron monitor and 36v charger.
That video shows a very nice setup but the 2 onboard chargers and converter are a luxury that I didnt need and just more stuff exposed to the salty environment....I just stick the chargers alligator clips on my battery bank to recharge from my 240v at home..its no drama at all just not as fancy to show your mates....
Though the converter may be worth it as mentioned previously, if it regulates the high voltage so you dont risk the burn-out that has troubled the Minn Kotas..
Best to talk to someone more knowledgeable then me on that front....It was TMC that made mention of it above..
Do you think the Minkota riptide will do the job?Yep.
I think my basic setup was around $5500 for 36v motor and Lithiums, circuit breaker, wiring, Victron monitor and 36v charger.
That video shows a very nice setup but the 2 onboard chargers and converter are a luxury that I didnt need and just more stuff exposed to the salty environment....I just stick the chargers alligator clips on my battery bank to recharge from my 240v at home..its no drama at all just not as fancy to show your mates....
Though the converter may be worth it as mentioned previously, if it regulates the high voltage so you dont risk the burn-out that has troubled the Minn Kotas..
Best to talk to someone more knowledgeable then me on that front....It was TMC that made mention of it above..
https://www.bcf.com.au/p/minn-kota-r...011015#start=9
Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.
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