personal information deleted
personal information deleted
Something to try Col,
If you're joining large CSA cables, make sure the join ends are pre heated, then pre wet (for a better term) the tip of the soldering iron with a dob of solder just before you go in for the join.
Then use that fresh dob on the iron tip to start the flow of solder into the join, once you see the dob from the tip melt away into the join then feed in more solder as required.
And clean the tip frequently- I mean after every attempt at a join. Wipe with a clean rag or better still a thick moist kitchen sponge kept in a dedicated small tray or container.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
deleted personal information
Yes that works on small wires and component legs but a larger wire you will need to allow the solder to flow straight off the tip into the join, don't be too concerned with doing the join from underneath - a flat/chisel tip is better for larger wires as it allows more heat directly onto the join, as opposed to a tapered/point tip for smaller soldering joins.Originally Posted by blacklab
Certainly pre heat from underneath though, but to get the initial flow of solder going you will need to feed the solder into the junction of the iron tip and the join.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If Ronji can throw the toys out of the cot,, then so can I
Col, I use flux especially on large wires,I don't bother with trying to heat it from underneath this way. Also I no longer twist my wires together, I will open the strands slightly and push them together. I then get a short piece of wire that has finer strands than the wires you are joining, strip most of the insulation and pull out one strand (keep the rest for the numerous solder joins you will be using), now wind that fine strand around your joint, this will hold everything in place, now use some flux and apply the solder and heat. It wont take much heat with flux and solder seems to flow much better than through twisted together wires and a much neater joint overall.
Oh by the way, don't forget to slip your heat shrink on before you go to all that trouble, i still occassionally do, dammit.
personal photo's removed
Soldering. 3 rules - clean, clean, clean. You are dealing with new tinned copper so that really shouldn't be an issue. From that point forward it's really about efficient heat transfer. A larger volume iron tip will work better than a point type tip as the job will simply pull the heat out. Twist your wires tightly together, apply a generous amount of solder to your iron tip and apply it to the job at the same time feeding solder into the solder pool at the iron placement. The actual contact area of the iron to the wire is bugger all - it's the solder itself that effects the heat transfer so if there isn't enough of it, it takes for ever and melts everything in the process. you will then see it flow into the wire as the job reaches temp. With larger joins, you may need to move the iron a bit on a regular basis so the whole join comes up to temp.
Soldering irons - I run a Weller gas unit that's near on 20 years old. Not a big iron but very hot. Even it will struggle in windy conditions though. Anything over 6mm - forget the iron all together - even with 6mm it's a stretch. Get yourself a refillable butane torch - something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/tradefla...stand_p5910253 . Be warned though - they generate plenty of heat. I use one for soldering up to 00 gauge battery cable lugs and shrinking heatshrink - never hold it still if doing the heatshrink. Using the torch you will burn a bit of the insulation in the immediate area but with practice you will figure out the fine line between too much and not enough heat.
If you are joining the smaller wires to the 4mm - apply the heat on the 4mm and let the solder flow to the lighter wire. It will minimise the insulation melting. Be careful using anything mechanical to hold the wire. If the insulation softens due to heat, it will damage it at the contact points. It can be a PITA to get stuff to sit properly but it's usually achievable. If you have to hold it with something - do so well back. Keep your heatshrink well back too.
As a beginner, always make sure to protect the surface under your job - you WILL drop liquid solder at some stage - still happens to me. Don't use your legs as surface protection.
If you need flux - something isn't right. Either the wire isn't clean or the solder you have is shit.
Scottar, i dont use resin cored solder any more due to some rolls I've had that just wouldn't stick to anything which is why I now have plain solder and use the flux. I still have sticks of solder for the bigger cables.
I have managed the knack of using the butane torch on virtually all size cables as lost my good old soldering iron during a shift, bought a cheapy which worked ok, took forever to heat up and eventually hardly heated at all. Pulled it apart and found the connections barely making contact, still buried in the back of a box somewhere.
Mind you I do have the luxury of being able to do most if my work away from confined spaces or near fuel, that then changes things.
both Sam and Scott, were fantastic with giving detailed help,, always appreciated that.
Col, another “good practice” thing to do:
If you’re going to solder after a crimp termination: is clean off the flux/resin after the solder cools- but before you heat shrink of course.
The flux/resin is an acid, so the best idea is not to promote corrosion. Just use a type of alcohol that doesn’t affect the plastic insulation, you know something like Bundy or Jack,,,
Just kidding metho should work. Allow it to dry off then heat shrink it to seal the join up.
Regarding soldering after crimping: I don’t bother.
With a good hex crimper and the right size lug and cable I don’t think solder is required.
But there’s certainly nothing wrong with doing it. Make sure the cable end is supported no matter which way you go.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
deleted personal information
Great stuff Col. [emoji1360]
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That's a bit different Sam. Flux will be a help with plain solder. I never use it though. I can't say I have ever had issue with resin core from Jaycar. I don't use the really thin stuff - takes too long to feed in enough. I use the 1mm stuff. From there it's just clean and enough heat.
deleted photos and information
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
