I had a ram fail (o ring leak) and lower an outboard onto the road destroying a prop and gearbox. Stuff the transom, I use the lockout to protect the engine.
I had a ram fail (o ring leak) and lower an outboard onto the road destroying a prop and gearbox. Stuff the transom, I use the lockout to protect the engine.
nil carborundum illegitimi
driving the boat on water or big trips on bitumen is nothing like driving on a corrugated unsealed road
Absolutely destroys everything
This is my set-up built by Sam. Hope it works as I am heading up to Stanage soon. SS 20190912_122938.jpg20190912_122918.jpg
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I donno the real figures or facts mate so take this with a grain of salt but can u imagine a 200kg engine sitting vertically on a transom going down the highway at 100kph hitting a pot hole now that 200kg engine will be turning into tons of G force vertically on that transom from the jolting, what about jumping a swell or a wave and that 200kg breaking the surface as it lands, transoms can endure a lot of punishment, rotted transoms still often hold there load even when completely rooted (towing) transoms are structurally very strong and well engineered and the original transom still goes unmodified for many decades
a transom consist of not only the transom, the hull under the bottom and over the splash well along with the floor and stringers all play a part in a transom strength its all locked in like lego
hmmm... hadnt thought of that...mainly tow max 1 hr each way...dont worry about transom support for leg...but I reckon a little custom built piece of 4x2 pine worth 50c and a cord could save me a lot of heartache.thanksOriginally Posted by GBC
I've never trailered my boats without one and have never had an issue. But then I don't go off the bitumen too often either. Although some of the roads keep the trailer springs working. And the boats are strapped down securely. Little, if any, movement on the trailer.
As above, I'm more concerned about the motors lowering and dragging. Now that wouldn't do the transom any good either.
A mate of mine never uses one. Although his motor lowered while retrieving at a ramp and he now has only half a keel on his outboard, it proves to me that it does happen. He says he doesn't need one now. Plenty of clearance with the motor down.
All these arms and brackets are far more complication than is necessary. I use a 200mm keel roller over the ram, trim motor down onto it, makes a perfect shock absorber.
IMO, do what the manufacturer manual states. Surely they have tried and tested before in their R&D to what works. As I said previously, I use the mounts that come with my Etec as supports as per the manual and no stress fractures of any sort to the transom after 9 years of both on and off road use. The only problem I’ve encountered is a little paint flake from the support arms which is expected after nearly a decade of salt use.
Probably the most valid point for their use and certainly typical for the majority of larger vessels in regards to the skeg hitting the ground when fully trimmed down. You see plenty of T&T units that gradually leak down. Under the vibration from a long distance or rough road tow, it's certainly a chance that the engine would come down quicker.
Possibly not but our outback highways are far from smooth. My most vivid memory of crossing the Nullabor was literally screaming "Why can't you c*^ts fix your roads?" in outback South Australia. It was physically impossible to avoid the potholes for considerable distances.
Maybe a little worse
But corrugated roads will boil shocks, springs rub through chassis rails, welds break
The extreme opposite to a nice piece of asphalt
But as said above losing skegs to ground contact is partly for me the reason I have a support
I have seen aftermarket blocks that go in between the leg and bracket they have been around a long time on ebay
A piece of ply cut to size is as good as any and can’t damage metalwork.
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nil carborundum illegitimi
Hi Chris.
I think that little flip down tab maybe a Mooring Lock, ie not designed to be used when Trailering.
Cheers.
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Transire vinus forticulus
I do use some pool noodles either side of the hydraulic rams as it doesn't stop the motor from swiveling from R to L. If I lose the pool noodles I just lick the steering wheel in place with a couple of occy straps.
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