Lifting roller doors for more clearance

[CT]

I've had a look at my roller doors and I can easily lift them 70 mm which makes life much easier for getting targa tops to fit it the shed. Despite the nay sayers online, it appears that roller doors can be safely unbolted and moved if the axle is retained and the door itself is strapped into a roll. Can anyone confirm that this is all thats required?

My plan is to drill the axles and fix them in place with a vertical shaft clamped to the shed frame. One shaft through each end of the axle and its retained in its correct orientation and unable to rotate. Then remove the tracks, strap the door shut and lift it up higher before clamping the axles off again, unstrapping and refitting the tracks. Its a chain lift door so I believe securing the chain should also mean the door can't unroll.

So do I have a crack or am I missing something?

Cheers
Craig

[scottar]

Could do that. I've never bothered. Usually they mount them in place lock the axles down with the door rolled up and restrained then rotate them a couple of times before guiding them into the runners. Really isnt that hard. Main thing is dont do anything with the door in the down position......ask me how I know 👎😕. I would simply put the door up and hang onto it while the runners are removed and carefully wind it back until the spring relaxes - throw a couple of cam buckle straps around it provided there is enough clearance for the buckles - best done as a minimum two man job. Lift it and reverse the procedure. Make sure you get the brackets level - like water level type level - which will be much easier with the door out of the way. If you are going to the trouble of lifting it go as high as you can - I had about an extra 15cm's over what the door was rated for - there was only about 2/3's of a wrap left when it was fully down. The only restriction was clearance on the roll when it was up.

[CT]

Thanks mate. That's what it looked like they did when they installed them.

How much skin did you loose when the door flew up flat out?

[scottar]

Thanks mate. That's what it looked like they did when they installed them.

How much skin did you loose when the door flew up flat out?

Hahaha - none thankfully. It was a mate in Perth's door who was babysitting my 4x4 while I moved the family back to Brissy years ago and the door didn't go high enough. We backed off the u bolts with the door down - makes a hell of a noise and then doesn't work any more. I've added a bit to the reply mate. Any questions sing out.

[CT]

Your addition pretty much sums up the easy way of doing it. I'll let you know the outcome!

[tenzing]

If you only need a small bit of extra clearance, try moving your jockey wheel way up near the hitch, or like me , use a second one.
You can have the hitch on the ground just about, Might help you squeak in !

[Fed]

I'd flick the roller door man a couple of hundred then sit out in the backyard drinking beer.

[Noelm]

I have had a bit of experience messing around with roller doors, including doing exactly what you intend doing, first up, make absolutely sure you have edequate clearance above the "role" you need a bit to play with, because sometimes they roll up much bigger than normal, and if it jams on the ceiling, it will just curl up rather than roll up, making it a real gem to get back down again. Next remember the axle is under spring tension, and if the brackets are undone from the wall, it will fling around at high speed, removing skin and assorted flesh as it does (I know this from painful experience) most door places loosen the little clamps on the axle to release tension, do what has to be done (raised in your case) then retensioned, which is pretty easy with a helper, or a bit of up and down the ladder, you just loosen the clamp, turn the axle with a couple of pipe wrenches, tighten the clamp and try the door, it should lift with light effort, and more or less stay in place, even if half up, or, alternatively, call in a "man" and sit in the shade drinking beer and watching.

[Barry Ehsman]

To save loosing tension you could hire an acro prop put it under one end, loosen the ubolt on that end then wind it up the 75mm you need, refit your bracket & let the door down fit & tighten the ubolt then do the same to the other side. you will have to lengthen the side guides the 75mm to suit. Have done this a few time's myself.