Seafarer Ventura Rebuild thread

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

Well, the weekend didn't prove as fruitful as I'd hoped.

The rain kind of slowed the whole process down, but got a bit done working between showers and dry out time.

When we left off, the cabin floor had just been removed. The nex day, I had a good look at it and decided that the WC floor had to go too, as did the lower half of the WC bulkhead.
That appeared to be it for rotten timbers in the front cabin.
Getting the WC out was "challenging" and in the end, it was removed expeditiously by the careful use of the demolition hammer and pinch bar!
So onto removal of rotten timbers and grinding the area in preparation for reconstruction.
That's where the time and danger comes into it. Very cramped area, 800 watt grinder spinning at 10,000rpm 300mm away from your face while lying on a floor... Not fun. But slow and steady, and it's now ready for new stuff.

IMG_3547.jpg IMG_3557.jpg IMG_3567.jpg IMG_3568.jpg

Then on to the keel.
It was very heavily laid up, to the point where it sounded solid, but when I pulled the copper nails out, they didn't offer much resistence. I was pretty lucky with the stringers, so i guess I cant complain about the keel needing attenton.

What a mess. Just sodden rotten timber for the most part. Not very pretty. But it all came out and ground up ok:

IMG_3556.jpg IMG_3555.jpg IMG_3562.jpg

Onto the transom. Had to remove all of the old transom remnants and fair in the glass ridges in preparation for the new transom core.
That was all going well, until my grinder (AEG 125mm) decided not to work any more.
OK, I have a spare - the AEG has died twice before, so I keep a cheap Ozito 125 handy because the AEG sole agent, Bunnings, will only repair them and not replace, and it always takes over 2 weeks.
So out with the Ozito, which is a horrid grinder to use, as one must always keep the trigger depressed. Handle like a 7" sander/polisher.
So that's going well, all looking good, until it too decides not to play any more.
OK, there's a few spots that need the fine touch of the vibrating multi tool with the tungsten blade. Nup. Dead. AEG of course...

So full grinding paraphernalia on - dry suit (which makes you sweat like a bastard), full face respirator, ear muffs, leather gloves and work boots and the last thing you want to do is to stop, because it takes a lot of mental preparation to put all that stuff on and commit to hours of grinding... Not happy...

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Well, I got a bit done. Not much. I really wanted the transom prepped so I could fit the new transom core today, but that couldn't happen.

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I took all the broken tools back to bunnings for repair/replacement and decided to flick the Ozito and use the refund to part finance a Makita 125mm grinder.

That shouldn't break too quickly...

[Noelm]

Strangely enough, I have an Ozito cordless and a plug in grinder I got as throwaway tools to do a specific job, and to this day they are still going great, the plug in one is quite old now, my "good" Makita is in the bin, I don't think they are anywhere near as good as they were a few years ago, AEG seem to be the same, good name, but questionable quality now, I think Milwaukee seem to be the best now, I have a mate that is a Plumber and he can wreck anything, most of his tools are dead in less than a year (dropped in sewer, dropped in water, buried in mud, fallen off roof) but his Milwaukee stuff is still working well.

[gazza2006au]

Key to keeping the tools going is to blow them out at the end of the day i have one of those bunning XU1 grinders still going strong after about 4 years my jig saws are another thing tho i have two i think one is Ozito with adjustable speed both crab walk but great tools they keep on keeping on just need to clean them with compressed air blow air into all the vents to keep them clean internally

[giddyup58]

Only got a chance to play with the Ventura for a couple of hours today, but thankfully, the transom is now prepared for the core.

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Still a lot of grinding to go, but as we say - small steps...

[gazza2006au]

I know u don't like people cluttering up your rebuild threads giddy so i'll be quick are u going ply or thermolite?

[giddyup58]

I know u don't like people cluttering up your rebuild threads giddy so i'll be quick are u going ply or thermolite?

Gazza, I'm going ply again.

You may be aware of my 24' Mustang rebuild and the 1600SO Haines rebuild threads hereabouts, and they both turned out well and on budget and I used ply.

It's all well and good to use the thermolite as a sales pitch or for bragging rights, but properly repaired transoms and stringers featuring Marine plywood are 100% acceptable.
I was a professional boatbuilder for over 20 years, worked extensively with hi tec composites and at Millkraft fixing everything that floats and yes, working with the foams is great and they do not rot, but at what cost? And why? The board is just the beginning. You need to go epoxy and that is not fool proof or inexpensive like Poly.

I just don't see the need to complicate the work or blow the budget on very simple repairs.
Transom and stringers are not rocket science and most of the guys here who have done the repairs themselves, seem to have done fabulous jobs and without any formal training.
Well done chaps! Cudos to you all.

I love reading a good build thread and seeing the level of competence and confidence rising weekly.

Lets face it - I dare say most of us could probably have a pro boat yard do the repairs, but what is the fun in that? I reckon it's really cool to do it yourself and then to carry that smug warm feeling inside that you got it right and saved thousands...

Sorry for the essay...

PS - Just my opinion regarding the ply. I really don't want to get into a debate here on the pro's and con's of the divers products, so if I've stepped on opinions or made anyone indignant, then my apologies...

[catshark]

keeping it old school.... awesome and enjoying this thread, must be a big effort to do all that grinding. like you say preparing for it is probably the hardest task .

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

Managed to get a bit done over the last few days.

The transom was ready for the marine ply core, so easiest way to get it perfect is to make a pattern from strips of 3mm MDF and hot melt glue it all together:
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I keep the transom core about 40mm clear of the hull and topsides joints, so when glassing it in, I can glass onto the actual transom then 75mm onto the 90 degree. Makes the glassing much stronger and much easier.
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I also draw a grid onto the rear skin to drill holes to allow for epoxy glue to escape. I generally make the grid at 50mm centres. Lots of glue, lots of 20mm chipboard screws (all of which get removed when dry) plenty of squeeze out, gentle tapping with rubber mallet - no voids here...
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Glassed in the core. Total of 4 x 600 choppy and 3 x 450 D/B. All waxed poly.
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Reinstated the stringers to the transom. I put the deck back on and scribed the well to transom joint. May have to modify the well to come further up the transom as there's quite a cantilever there to the top bolt holes, seeing I have increased the transom from a long shaft 5" to an XLS. Glassing the well outside and underneath adds phenomenal strength to the transom. Generally, I use a 300gsm choppy tie layer followed by a 450DB for actual strength - no strength in choppy, just bulk - followed by another choppy to make it all neat. It was also a good time to reinstate the rear side/transom stiffeners:
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Next, I had a look at the state if the stringers, cut out and prepped any rotten areas and made new infills. Thankfully, there was not much wrong and the repairs were easy.
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My big complaint with the original build, was that the glass covering the stringers wasn't rolled properly, and a big delamination causing an unattached bubble, formed on both sides of the stringers. It didn't seem to affect the strength of the stringers, for there was no delamination anywhere and no cracking under the hull, but I knew it was there and I was in the mood to get into the dry suit and do a lot more grinding!
I ended up cutting the bubbles out with a 1mm cutting wheel - the bare sections in the preceding photograph - and reglassing all the stringers after a very thorough preparation grind.
I admit, the glassing is probably overdone now considering the original attempt by the factory, but at least I know it's right.
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A quick regrind of the floor to prep for the attachment of the keel, which was already pre-cut.
Bit of thickened resin for glue/coves, bit of resin, a bit of rolling, and all done:
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I also got the front portion of the keel under the V berth fitted and glassed as well as the lower V berth bulkhead.

All in all, the transom and stringer repairs sucked up 5 litres of aerosil, 20 litres waxed poly resin, 7m2 600 choppy, 8m2 350 choppy and 7m2 450D/B.

Apart form the keel section under the cabin floor and the front and rear floor sheet bulkheads, (next job), the boat is ready to be prepped for the floors, The thickening laminates which go under the seat pedestals and at the attachment point of the rear coming, need to be prepped and glassed on the undersides as do the actual floors.

I love seeing these things progress from sows ear to silk purse.

[Noelm]

Looking great, you might have to take up boat renovations in your spare time!

[giddyup58]

Looking great, you might have to take up boat renovations in your spare time!

What spare time?
I'm too busy renovating boats!

[Noelm]

You can do them at night!

[ericcs]

what type of engine are you planning for now that you have a 25" transom?

[Noelm]

Just about everything is available in 25", it's kind of the "standard" these days.

[ericcs]

just curious, as giddyup commented that the black max that it came with was in great condition. though he might still use it, like on the 1600SO!

[giddyup58]

just curious, as giddyup commented that the black max that it came with was in great condition. though he might still use it, like on the 1600SO!

Yeah, we have a few bits left over from when I was accumulating parts for the twin 200's I was going to use on the Mustang.
Extending the gear selector 5" is easy, we have a couple of spare 25"trunks and extending the drive shaft can be done for about $250.
The driveshaft from the 150 was knackered, so we knew it needed attention, so may as well go 25". We have all the bits.
Just makes sense to have the higher transom...