Reply With QuoteSo the bottom motor holes have a bolt that goes thru the plate and the transom and the top holes only thru the plate?
How thick is the (I assume) ali plate?
Something you knocked up yourself?
Its a jack plate 20in transom, 25in motor.
I have a 75L tank under the floor. Good for pretty much everything that I do, but I like to have a backup.
I was going to put the original 60L tank back in as backup, but decided to go with jerries again. 7That way I don't have excess fuel sitting in the boat. I can take jerries out and put the fuel in the car when I go back to work and the boat sits for a month.
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So the bottom motor holes have a bolt that goes thru the plate and the transom and the top holes only thru the plate?
How thick is the (I assume) ali plate?
Something you knocked up yourself?
What could go wrong.......................
Just took this. Shows it pretty well.Originally Posted by Chimo
The guy who installed the motor had it made. He does them regularly and has a guy.20190524_161820.jpg
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OK i think I get it, what thicknes plate did you use?
What could go wrong.......................
If have to have a look in the morning. Maybe about 6 or 8mm
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Glad u took her out already to test the engine on that mounting bracket, There is a guy in the USA that makes the exact same bracket but only rates it for low HP
the motor mount is interesting, ive looked at it for a while. i get the 8mm plate is bolted to the transom together with welded top piece. the side squirts coming in to meet the jack plate are just trims arent they ?
further more excellent job , looks great and i was suprised by how much inside freeboard there is, i mean those pedestal mounts gotta go 600 mm high yeah.
i had a 225 black max bolted to a haines 223 and all it was was a piece of 20mm plate ally
2 bolts through transom 2 through the plate
Did a similar thing myself. Went from short twin 2 strokes to LS single 4 stroke. Worked well, still going fine with current owner.
If you haven't already found out you can bend the filler spout on those jerry cans into a complete U turn and insert it into the filler hole while the jerry can is still upright, then upend it to 90 degrees, sit it on the splashwell wall and open the breather. You won't spill a drop.
It actually goes over the transom in a C section.
Really solid and full of sikaflex.....
He did a really tidy install.
Second hand motor and if you take the cowling off I reckon there's dirtier engines coming straight out of a crate from Japan.....
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Gford its a nice engine u have but a bit ballsy hanging a 10k donk off that bracket when i was looking into alloy pods i called the guy off ebay i asked if he had insurance for his workmanship incase it broke and engine sunk he relied "what bloody for? I have been in the marine industry for x years" i politely said no worries mate and hung up.... walked away from it a bit risky
If you saw it you wouldn't have any reservations.
Solid as a rock.
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Done properly, there are no issues with this. Of course, there is no point hanging it off a rotted transom, what you are bolting to to needs to be solid. You need to remember that the thrust is being applied at the bottom of the leg, via the prop, so the thrust is pushing , effectively against the whole transom, not acting purely as a lever against that extension. I could see absolutely no deflection on mine, with full throttle starts on the F115. My transom was proved good when they drilled, clean dry wood.
If that bracket goes anywhere it will only be because it has taken the transom with it.
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