are Well Nuts the way to go

[scottar]

Chimo, why not just the full length of the fuel well, it would definitely hold better than short lengths.

If you aren't going to penetrate the well wall to end up with the mount under the glass and you have enough room to get sufficient thickness to tap into effectively it would probably offer the best result. Personally I'd use some countersunk self tappers into the tank well wall along with the Sika.

[Chimo]

Morning Dignity.

Just trying to save you some $s.

I would use a full length of each side myself but I am not saving for a bigger tombstone!

Cheers
Chimo

[Dignity]

Morning Dignity.

Just trying to save you some $s.

I would use a full length of each side myself but I am not saving for a bigger tombstone!

Cheers
Chimo

Boat is incorrectly spelt, should be BOATTT, Bring Out Another Two/Ten Thousand. Same here Chimo, in fact we aren't having any tombstones. The boss keeps wanting me to sell the boat but then what would I do in this inclement weather.

The tank has to come out now as I've found a few pinkish spots on top of the tank where fuel has obviously condensed, if I stand on the tank a small whiff of fuel can be smelt. In theory if I pump air into the breather hose I should be able to find the pinhole, I've cleaned the top of the tank but where the spots were the tank is solid and other suspect spots I've polished out but can't see anything.

[Dignity]

If you aren't going to penetrate the well wall to end up with the mount under the glass and you have enough room to get sufficient thickness to tap into effectively it would probably offer the best result. Personally I'd use some countersunk self tappers into the tank well wall along with the Sika.

Scottar, penetrating the tank wall to glass a mount in will now in all probability be the case as the tank has to come out due to a pin hole leak. I have to be careful not to create leaks into other areas of the hull if the tank leaks or ruptures.

[Chimo]

When you pull the tank out you may find there are no suitable spacing strips under the tank.
This was the case with my ss tank in my Vag as someone apparently forgot to install them and when the tank instalation was inspected this error was not detected.
It cost me a new tank due to pin holes due to contact between the frp and the tank.

If you have to fit strips you may well lose some of your clearance above the tank too

Perhaps one of the newer poly tanks could be an option if you have to renew your tank..

C
C
PS Given your under pressure to sell the boat probably best not to get into too much discussion with .............

[Fed]

In post #12 picture #2 are you sure that's hollow or supposed to be hollow?
It looks like glassed over wood, If it's hollow how would they have 'formed' it and why?
If it's the top of a bearer maybe it's rotted out, perfect place for rot with water going straight down the screws into a glassed over wood bearer below.
Judging by the tank width that picture is the end wall, are the sides the same?

[Dignity]

In post #12 picture #2 are you sure that's hollow or supposed to be hollow?
It looks like glassed over wood, If it's hollow how would they have 'formed' it and why?
If it's the top of a bearer maybe it's rotted out, perfect place for rot with water going straight down the screws into a glassed over wood bearer below.
Judging by the tank width that picture is the end wall, are the sides the same?

Fed, that is the side of the tank, to the bottom left is a piece of neoprene sheeting I've thrown on as I was working in that area so looks deceptive. The raw f/g you are looking at is basically a hollow stringer running the full length either side of the fuel tank and kill tank behind it. It is twice the width you can see in the photo, I can confirm this as I did go to the Allison factory when they were still building them at Archerfield to buy another SS duck board support as the boss couldn't understand why there was only one, must agree with her after installation.

There are no wooden stringers or frames in this boat, the only wood is in the transom and the floor of the anchor well, this last piece caused me grief but that's another story. The main floor is stuck directly onto the stringers and frames with resin, not ideal over a long length of time. When I got the boat (5th owner) I'd lifted the flook in the fuel area as the screws were no longer holding it down, filled the old holes and put new bigger screws down, I also sikaflexed between the two floors to give added support and rigidity. After all a Stanley knife makes short work of it if needed. Last time I also dipped the screws in some resin before fixing them to act as a seal, probably worked because there hasn't been a hint of water the other side of those stringers. I had to access the bottom of the hull for the new pod and put inspection plates in the sidewalls at the rear and also sent my endoscope up for a look (best $12 I ever spent on ebay).

Cheers
Sam

Edit, the above is not quite truethe framework and stringers are all one piece, they were made to a mould in the factory and looked a bit like an egg carton then glassed onto the hull.

[Fed]

Thanks Dignity, now it all makes sense.