Reading the specs for the bearings they quote 40% lomger life expectancy using oil over grease, might have to give dura hubs a go
Reading the specs for the bearings they quote 40% lomger life expectancy using oil over grease, might have to give dura hubs a go
Marine type rear seals DO NOT BLOW OUT. Yes, conventional road type seals, which are useless on boat trailers which actually get wet, certainly can suffer from too much grease pressure, and "blow out" The multi-lipped marine type running inside a stainless cup will always leak some grease. If they are not, there's not enough grease there. The grease in there is what helps to keep the water out from the inners. You cannot overgrease boat trailer bearings--you can waste grease by pumping in so much it just all comes out the front and the back, but it's not hurting it.There are some really crappy marine seal sets out there, I struck a brand a couple of years back, from Coventries, that had absolutely no contact between the lips of the seal and the cups they were meant to be running in. Bearing buddies do not remove the need for annual inspection, cleaning and re-packing--people who slag them off seem to fall into this group. I tend to do two heavily loaded trips away each year, both of which involve long high speed bitumen to get to either dirt roads or appalling station tracks--rest of the year is mostly down the local ramp, with some grease pumped in about every 3 or 4 launches. Bearing sets are replaced at THREE years, whether they need it or not.
pumping in some grease every 3 or 4 launches! my word id be greasing my bearings every week at that rate! I clean and pack mine once a year and that hasn't failed me. In my early days I paid the price for using bearing buddies than then ignoring the rest. So I don't bother with them anymore
Where does it say bearing sets should be replaced every 3 years?
What braking system is it running Crunchy? I have had a similar problem with a "hot hub" a couple of times now - both times it has turned out to be a hydraulic caliper jamming so the brakes have stayed on.
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Where does it say bearing sets should be replaced every 3 years?[/QUOTE]
yeh its a good point...but you do need to check the bearings out to see if they are still ok..both for tightness and" rumble" on some sort of regular basis. ....how long the bearing lasts is as much up to how you keep em greased ,dont go in the water hot etc. use regularly etc etc...so theres no set time...
I bought a trolley jack from the cheapo shop and its a pretty quick job to check/ change bearings if you think you need to, it also gives you the chance to check out the springs etc.I run a tandem,single axle and boat trailer....and in general the boat trailer gives the most work....salt water never sleeps!
Electric over hydraulic, you might be right Scott, not sure if jammed on but certainly may have been* but also down to the shims so metal on metal. Some gouging of the disk.Originally Posted by scottar
How do you make the flange in the copper pipe(?) brake line? Special tool?
tx
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*last owner used bearing grease to grease the calliper pins.
I would imagine a good quality flaring tool Crunchy but I have never undone mine at that end. I usually try and push the piston back with a decent sized screwdriver - one in particular of mine (the hot one) didn't want to go without significant force - time for attention.
I have actually just gone through a full strip down of all four calipers and bearings along with new stainless backed pads. I undid the calipers at the caliper using a bar through one of the caliper pin holes and a spanner initially and then holding the hose and rotating the caliper to remove it. I then use a compressor, blower gun and piece of timber to remove the piston from the caliper (good demo of this on U-Tube) - make sure you cover it with a rag to stop any remaining fluid spraying. Next step with my calipers was to remove the bleed nipple and then carefully the caliper seal. Then remove the cylinder from the caliper. I found that the cylinder bores appeared to have "grown" internally ( have also seen this with some hydraulic pumps - don't know why) to the point that the pistons could not be rotated even with the seal removed so I gave them a quick hit with a linnishing wheel and die grinder and then polished the internals and also polished the pistons. Lubricate the seal with rubber grease (available from super cheap) and carefully reassemble making sure not to damage the seal. Then simply reverse the dismantling procedure making sure not to over rotate the rubber connecting hose. It's a bit daunting at first but once I had it sorted it took about a half hour per caliper. If you are a bit more organized than I was, having some new seals would probably be a good idea but no leaks so far (touch head - I mean wood)
Clear as mud hey.
I use marine grease to lubricate the caliper pins. This isn't where they have been jamming though. Every time I have had issues it has been the piston jamming in the cylinder.
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