How is your key switch set up ?
Is it on a dash or integral to your outboard control.
I'd be checking the key switch itself then the wiring to the rear of the switch.
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Hi everyone,
I am after some help to diagnose and solve a problem that is currently intermittent but scary all the same.
Occasionally, when the key is turned, nothing at all happens. No diagnostic lights or beep and no crank of the engine. Of course this first occurred 30km offshore! I switched the batteries, turned the key and still nothing. Wiggled the forward control a few times, back to neutral and nothing. Repeated a few more times then it started as normal.
Obviously there is a loose wire or bad connection somewhere! The fact that there is not even a diagnostic light or sound when the key is turned may help identify the problem. I think I will start by opening up the forward control and check any wires/switches I can see.
Does anyone have any ideas or experienced the same symptoms?
Cheers
Joffo
How is your key switch set up ?
Is it on a dash or integral to your outboard control.
I'd be checking the key switch itself then the wiring to the rear of the switch.
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Key is on the rear of the outboard control. I think that's where I will begin. Perhaps the kill switch is playing up even though its never been used?!
Find the white wire, and make sure it is fully intact, and connected direct to the battery.
Neutral start switch in the control box possibly on the fritz
Be pretty unusual for a fuse to be "on the way out" fuses blow, or their good, be unlikely for anything in between.
firstly does your motor make all the usual noises at first part key turn? Fuel pump priming etc?
Secondly I'd be tracing voltage to your start relay, determine if it's at the control box or in the motor. Should be quick and easy.
Easy to print off a circuit diagram from a service manual to help,
If it's intermittent sound like dodgy neutral switch or loose cable.
Also check your stack of neutral cables on your motor block. First place stuff generally corrodes/loose.can affect a lot of stuff
Coukd also be your starter/solenoid. Do you hear a click at key turn?
I don't think the white wire being connected to the solenoid would give an intermittent loss of power to the helm self tests.
Without a circuit diagram I'd start at the fuses looking for a dodgy blade connection.
Probably limited to visual & physical checking unless you can get it to 'do it's thing' then you could pull out your meter.
A circuit diagram would surely help, is it a late model 4 stroke?
Edit: If it does crank over fine then I doubt it has anything to do with the 'big' wires failing to power up the self tests.
How old is the motor, I had a suzi which did the same, the kill switch had shrunk back just enough not to make contact,
My money will be on the neutral start switch. Anything you suspect - activate or deactivate as required and see if it produces the same results - put the engine in gear and then turn the key - if it produces the result you have intermittently had then it is a possible cause. If you activate the start in gear protection but it beeps and the diagnostic lights work - it's not the switch. Same with any fuses or joins in wires that you think may be suspect.
And don't forget, there is a neutral switch on the motor, and control box on most Suzukis.
Just as a side note, be careful turning the key on a putting it in and out of gear, lots of motors (including Suzuki) utilise this in set sequences to "program" the ECU/EMM (computer) and it has been known to screw up functions by random operation.
I'm pretty sure the motor is a 2010 model.
Lots of great ideas and information. Thanks everyone for your input so far. I still haven't had a chance to pull anything apart and start checking wires/fuses etc yet but need to get to it soon as I plan to take the boat out mid-week!
I will keep you posted on what I find or don't find.