The water pressure here has been dropping and is inconsistent a d Unity aren't too interested in doing anything about it. When they build that new Aura satellite city behind us with 80,000 more people I can't see it improving.Originally Posted by Jsmfun
Flush bag.jpg
There are, or were, some canvas type bags with 4 x vertical conduits that hold them up. Pull the conduits out and you can collapse the bag to get under the engine. Put the pipes in and start filling via the hose connection at the bottom of the bag. Honda900 on here uses one on his DF175. Works a treat. After he is finished he adds another hose to the fitting on the bottom and runs it to his yard to water it.
I was a bit concerned as I had read previous posts however after 15 months of just using the bypass system on the last service my mechanic checked it all out and found no corrosion at all, and he is very thorough. I suspect there are other things at play when it does occur so I am happy to continue with my current set up.
I bought a second hand plastic commercial laundry tub which has been great. Probably holds about 450 litres in total, but I don't need to fill it that much to get enough depth to properly flush my 150. I store water in a separate tank and transfer it into the tub with a bilge pump. Takes about 1 beer's time to do- I'm usually cleaning up something else on the boat in the meantime. I transfer the water back to the tank when I'm finished. I keep changing the water bit by bit so it never gets any real amount of salt in it- still pure enough to put on the garden.
My F150 lasted till 800 hrs flushed it every time i used it every two weeks like showroom finish external even pulled off the cowl and sprayed the motor with inbox but the block complete corroded out. Because i followed the instructions in the manual to NOT start the motor.....
Disappointed.
But i now have a Suzi
So do you still follow manufacturer's instructions?
What I don't understand is how the block would corode if the water is still going through the block using either the drum flush or bypass system if following manufacturers instructions.
Just a question how many times have the anodes on the block been removed and the mating surfaces been buffed to ensure good contact, if not then this would be a reason the block has corroded. My mechanic does all of the anodes every service and it can be seen that the surfaces are doing their job when he removes them but for how long if not cleaned etc.
It's an interesting subject. My take from personal observations - where ever possible I run a motor on earmuffs - in a drum to create back pressure. All of my small motors have always produced a lot more water coming from the various exhaust mixed outlets when running in a drum. The difference with a 40 Evinrude was quite obvious - bit like comparing a dry spit to Niagra falls. I have never been a huge fan of recycling salt so I use the muffs and always, right or wrong, run a mixing unit of a non corrosive formula car wash through the engine to break down the salt followed by a straight fresh water flush. On my big "rude" I also then give it a couple of minutes using the flush fitting as well. Not a Yammie I know, but with the G1 Etecs it has apparently been proven that courtesy of the thermostats not opening if the engine isn't actually being run, that some of the internal passages either get no or a very limited flush by only using the flush port.
I have just re-read the manual for the 150, and it clearly outlines the 2 separate procedures for flushing, page 59 for flushing the Cooling System (muffs) and page 60/61 for flushing the Power Unit (using the screw on fitting).
I am not sure where the ambiguity lies for only using the screw in fitting as the only means of maintenance.
For me personally, it is the muffs/drum followed by the screw in fitting every time. No point taking any chances for the sake of 15 minutes and some extra water on the lawn.
You've now got me hunting for my manual, moved house since I bought the motor and now can't find it
I just brought a brand new F100LA 4 stroke yammy, the manual says you can flush the motor either way bypass or muffs. The dealer recommended to use the bypass mostly but every now and then put the muffs on and start the motor.
I have only used the bypass up until I came back in at 1 in the morning on the weekend, after a sleep I used the muffs and started the motor to warm it up and it worked a treat.
After ten minuets or so I shut the motor down and did another 10 minutes of flushing through the bypass.
Cheers Axl
I could never get enough pressure for the ear muffs to work for my Yammy 150 so I bought a large plastic container on Gumtree. Sorry I havent got the link, it was a few years ago. I think they got a big shipment in from China. I prefer to use the container to the flush port,
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote