Noelm, thanks for your offer but I have a mate at Moffat Beach who owns a SS and Alum fabrication workshop and I will do the hard yards, the biggest challenge after that will be lifting the motor off to put a jacking plate of any sort on.Originally Posted by Noelm
Smithy, for my 30 hp it was in the vicinity of $265, so I imagine the larger ones would be a little dearer.
Awesome snap your boat got the other day.
Marchy, I imagine once the motor is fitted it would make life easier for fine tuning, I will check them out, I am hoping to not increase the length of the pod, even 3 inches as the extra weight of the 4 stroke changed the dynamics of the boat significantly, about 48 kg, it's taken me a while to adjust weight distribution and trailer adjustment for towing. How do you adjust the motor up and down, do you pack some timber under the leg and wind the jockey wheel up/down.
Adjustment is done by backing off the 3 bolts each side in the cutouts then turning a centre bolt that raises or lowers the motor. Not sure if wood under the skeg is needed but I normally do just to take a little weight off the threads. Raise or lower takes about 5-10 mins from tools out to tools away. Hell of a lot easier than changing a bolt hole on the outboard bracket.
To be honest I didn't notice any change in the balance of the boat when I fitted it.
A mate had an ally extension added to his Lewis walk around a few years back and that worked for him. Not sure what it cost him tho. Good luck which ever way you decide.
Need a lift mate?
The best thing to lift the motor is one of those engine hoist things, you can hire them, or buy one for $199, if you will never use one again, just hire it, makes in bolting and moving the motor a breeze.
Just Friday nite with the yak 😊
When I had to raise an engine it being long shaft on a short shaft transom I got a length of mild steel angle of appropriate width and thickness, cut it into 4 bits a length that suited boat and ob, 2 bits I bolted to the transom through the original motor mount holes and the other two to the engine so that when the both came together on the boat one lip slipped inside the other. then raised the motor to the height I wanted and drilled holes to secure each paired angles together with motor mount like nuts and bolts. Think under 80$ saw the job done and I had near unlimited range along the sliding angles to tune the engines height. just needed to drill new holes to suit, the outer holes stayed and the inner piece took the new holes, one could also pre engineer some elongated ovals in one of each of the mating angles if they liked for fast and easy motor height changes.
hope all that makes sense.
At the time I didn't want the plate idea because of the need to drill more holes in the boat and considered the engine a stop gap till I decided on the final engine for the boat.
Also treated and painted each to ward off corrosion...overall they worked so well I only replaced 6 years later for a hydraulic jack plate, love the jack plate to bits.
The angles create the most minimal setback available without any new holes being made in the boat.
FNQ, I understand your process, nice and simple, would SS work although I would imagine that galvanic reaction could be an issue.
Hi dignity yes it would work I expect, so would aluminium, I wanted to make mine out of SS but the cost scared me away for the amount of time I expected to need it.
A cushion of marine polyurethane silicone might help keep any potential corrosion problems at bay.
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