Suzuki Interface Cable

[ozynorts]

Hi gang,
Looking for some advice on how to get the engine interface cable into the engine. I can see at the front of the motor that there are other cables that run into the engine through rubber grommets( for the lack of a better word). Do these just pull off? I want to attach the engine to the NMEA 2000 network and need to get this cable with the chunky connector in under the cowl.
Anyone done one before and willing to lend some advice.
Cheers in advance

[Moejoes]

Hi Ozy,
Done both motors myself.
By memory I had to disconnect all leads throttle & gear changing linkages.
That rubber grommet you refer to just pulls out from the front & has a series of holes for cables with slots in them ( No need to try & push through a small hole ).
Once pulled out, choose spare hole in the grommet & slide it in from the side once pulled through the loom, push grommet back in & connect everything back up.
Make sure you disconnect your battery first so you don't arc out anywhere.
A little bit of stuffing around but doable.
My second motor required an extension lead which had a massive plug on it so I had to pull everything back out of the loom to get it through to the motor.
Good luck.

[ozynorts]

Cheers mate, sounds like some fun to be had....

[Moejoes]

No probs.
A 2nd set of hands always comes in handy when trying to pull cables through tight lumes.
PS Don't ask your misses as that normally makes the job harder than it has to be and normally ends in an argument
Take photos or film it all as you pull it apart if uncertain so you can look back at it if you can't remember where everything went.

[ozynorts]

Yep good tip about photo's, would hate to connect the wrong things up.....

[scottar]

Easiest way is to leave the entire interface under the cowl of the motor and cut and join the drop cable to your network under the cowl or up under the dash. That way is only the thickness of the drop cable to make room for and the interface cable is out of harms way - have seen a couple of these water damaged in non draining rigging tubes.

[Moejoes]

Both my interfaces ended up in the transom out of harms way but was a pain to get the extension lead through the lume due the size of the plug & the length of it.

[Jarrah Jack]

What year zuk have you got Ozy?

[Moonlighter]

Boy you guys do things the hard way! There's no need to remove all those cables etc! I've done this several times. The best idea is to get the long adapter cable and run it from the SDS port through to the boat and up to the back of the dash. That way, all the T pieces and interface cable live up there where it is dry and cool.

Then, it is done as follows:

1. Take the cowl and side/lower covers off the engine, this exposes the grommet leading to the rigging tube. The grommet opens into sections

2. Run the cable thru the grommet in an empty slot or beside a small cable.

3. Tape the cable that you need to get through to the motor to a hard but flexible snake like sparkys use. Spray with some silicon lube. Push it thru the tube to the inside of the boat. Wriggle the tube to help it go through.

3. Connect up Interface to T piece behind dash. Done.

[Moejoes]

Boy you guys do things the hard way! There's no need to remove all those cables etc! I've done this several times. The best idea is to get the long adapter cable and run it from the SDS port thrip ugh to the boat and up to the back of the dash. That way, all the T pieces and interface cable live up there where it is dry and cool.

Then, it is done as follows:

1. Take the cowl and side/lower covers off the engine, this exposes the grommet leading to the rigging tube. The grommet opens into sections

2. Run the cable thru the grommet in an empty slot or beside a small cable.

3. Tape the cable that you need to get through to the motor to a hard but flexible snake like sparkys use. Spray with some silicon lube. Push it thru the tube to the inside of the boat. Wriggle the tube to help it go through.

3. Connect up Interface to T piece behind dash. Done.

Can you do mine next time for me

[honda900]

Boy you guys do things the hard way! There's no need to remove all those cables etc! I've done this several times. The best idea is to get the long adapter cable and run it from the SDS port thrip ugh to the boat and up to the back of the dash. That way, all the T pieces and interface cable live up there where it is dry and cool.

Then, it is done as follows:

1. Take the cowl and side/lower covers off the engine, this exposes the grommet leading to the rigging tube. The grommet opens into sections

2. Run the cable thru the grommet in an empty slot or beside a small cable.

3. Tape the cable that you need to get through to the motor to a hard but flexible snake like sparkys use. Spray with some silicon lube. Push it thru the tube to the inside of the boat. Wriggle the tube to help it go through.

3. Connect up Interface to T piece behind dash. Done.

So Grant this long adapter cable,

where did you source it?

make it yourself?

one piece that runs from the service port up to the dash?


Regards
Honda.

[Moonlighter]

Yep, one length adapter cable from SDS port to dash. Then plug interface cable into it up there.

I used a length of hydrive plastic hydraulic hose I had lying around to get it through. From memory, I recall now that I pushed the hose thru the rigging tube to the motor from inside the transom, taped the cable to it, and pulled it back through. No dramas at all. If your rigging tube is really chock full, it is easy to remove the pins from the plug before you pull it through, then reattach the plug once it's through.

Amazed that you guys did it the way you did, so much harder than the above method.

Jon Eadie sells them, Suzuki Australia make them, I understand. 6m long or thereabouts.

I made my own up. Easy. Plugs bought from Eastern Beaver in Japan cost less than $10. Cable itself is nothing special. I can show you the wiring instructions/pin placements if you want to make your own up.

cheers!

[scottar]

Good to see Suzuki Australia actually supporting this stuff now. When I was doing them we either had to make the adaptors or put up with short imported ones. On at least one occasion we had a client present a motor with a damaged EMM where another dealer had tried to make his own adapter and got it wrong. With Moonlighters info that long adaptors are available that is the way I would do it too instead of having to find space under the lid for coiled cables.

[thomo_113]

Yeah guys part number is 36668-88L00-HSM - only available from Aus Suzuki dealers

[ozynorts]

What year zuk have you got Ozy?

2015 50 hp Jarrah.