Well in my case i dont have a box section trailor, my trailor is IBEAM so no inside out rotting. I have heard of blokes completely sealing their box section trailers and then cut and tap a grub screw somewhere so you can fill with an oily mixture.Originally Posted by Trend Signs
You have to do the inside too i stripped my trailer and pulled a sponge with xtroll through the main beams and sprayed the cross members through the gal drain holes and rolled the trailer over and from side to side.
If your going to do it to a new trailer you might aswell do it right from the start.
That's where the proper rustproofing gun comes in
Trailer approaching 30yrs old. Made by tracer on Nthn Beaches. No rust but 3-4 replacements of axels/springs/fishplates/bolts over the yrs. Old boys still tell me its all about the welds, quality of the gal job and steel which have dropped a lot.
Hard to argue when they claim we only show care for the trailer when it is convenient for US...which is long after the damage is already done at the ramp. We flush the trailer when we wash the boat/flush the motor at the end of the day....whereas the damage is actually done when launching and then leaving a now s/water covered trailer in the warm sun for 8 hours, not to mention remaining connected to an often poorly wired 12V source. Makes sense of course but who does it ? A quick pass with a garden pump spray bottle of f/water over the dunked half to get rid of the s/water when parking the trailer, disconnect the trailer plug from the car...throw spray bottle in the boot and hop onboard. Most of their old trailers still look perfect after 2-3 decades so its hard to argue.
I never bothered to do this but this trailer has still managed to have a 3+ decade life without any drama...maybe 4 refurbs of axle/springs/fishplates/bolts etc over the yrs but framework perfect. In reality i have no idea why this one lasted so well, so all i can do is attribute some of it to original build quality plus drilling out then tapping box section and periodically adding fishoil. I reckon its the welds that go first from the inside of box section but so many are now I beam trailers so it aint an issue.
Latest new set of axle/springs this time i sprayed with Tectyl and looking sweet. Will do it again. Trailer painted with silver chassis paint which was called por15 but make absolutely sure whatever you use is UV tolerant. Most arnt. Not a believer in cold gal paints and wouldnt use tectyl on the frame coz of the filth...maybe i;m too visual but got to have SOME standards.
These days i use a 5l garden spray to quickly rinse (maybe 30secs-1min) the back part after launching and forced myself to get into that habit despite the urge to rush to the boat and fire up asap. I know giving it a hosing at the ramp at the end of day is still important (the convenient time most of us do it), but is only a token effort to make me feel better, because most of the damage was already done whilst i was out fishing.
Have also seen a self flushing setup where he must flick a switch somehow with that cheapo garden irrigation tubing run around rear inside of trailer...sprays f/water on the way off the ramp to park the car/trailer.
Maybe he had too much time on his hands or just likes to tinker...more i thought of it though the more it made sense.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
This is the product is what I am going to try then followed by tectyl as the product is not uv stable
Sorry you are going to have to tilt your heads 😄
Ok job done , so I gave the trailer 2 coats of the rustraint allowed to dry for a week allowing time fore my order of tectyl to arrive. I was expecting it to be so thick so the process of spraying slowed me down. I ended up mixing it with diesel to thin out which aloud it to be sprayed on. In the end I am thinking tectyl may be the only solution as it sticks but am eager to see how the rustraint performs . If anyone is curious about rustraint it's sold at the mega paint shop at Milton, it's really easy to work with sprays on easy and leaves an oily wet look when dry. Repels water but not uv stable so any exposed areas need to be covered.
Might i just say this, any coating will stop rust, but you have to MAINTAIN it. The great thing about stuff like tectyl and fishoil etc is that you dont have to go to pains to prepare the surfaces. you just more or less spray/paint it on. If you do it on a regular basis you will not have problems.
The only thing you need to be aware of is RHS, where there is drain holes in the bottom. The problem with RHS is that you can treat the outside but not the inside (well not easily anyway) so an RHS trailer is more likely to fail from the inside out.
Tectyl, Tectyl, Tectyl. I bought a degreaser gun from an auto store and thinned it a bit with turps. As you spray up the inside tubes it turns to a fog and I'm sure gets into every nook and cranny. Also a very important area to not overlook is the angle iron that the springs are attached to and sits under the frame to allow for wheel position adjustment. Slap it on there and while still gooey clamp it back down.
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