Yes that's one of the best ways to use that foam. Fully sealed.
And it's really not good to be carrying water soaked foam under the floor.
Boats shouldn't need ballast... Timber stringers/transom...Fuel economy...
etc...etc
Yes that's one of the best ways to use that foam. Fully sealed.
And it's really not good to be carrying water soaked foam under the floor.
Boats shouldn't need ballast... Timber stringers/transom...Fuel economy...
etc...etc
Good on you ozynorts for having a crack at building your own, after chatting with you about the build, you seemed to have done a lot of research and trial and error, I'm keen to hear how it handles on the water and hopefully its everything you hoped for!��
Cheers whallup
Thanks for sharing this. I have been looking at the same hull, as a project to share with the kids.
Are there any advantages to using the strip plank method vs the ply? Looks like a lot more work, does it end up with a better or lighter hull?
Look forward to following your progress.
The strip plank method is used for hulls with more intricate shape as the ply won't bend enough for some of the designs.Originally Posted by Bremic
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
The foam voids are all fully glassed before the foam goes in and the the floor is glued into place thus fully sealing it. Every compartment that has foam is fully sealed therefore there shouldn't be any water getting in.
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
Floor glassed into place.
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
Anchor locker glassed in and front deck and esky as well.
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
First pic is after the topcoat went on.
Second and third are the interior in various stages of the build.
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
Looks like a top little rig Ozy ! Good on you for having a crack. Will be very satisfying once there is some blood on the decks after building it yourself no doubt. Look forward to the updates.
well done mate. I thought long and hard about going with one of those designs....
It is really rewarding to do it your self mate. I was very nervous as I had no experience other than high school woodwork many years ago but it is so easy to follow the plans and if you are stuck you can call the designer to get an answer.
Go for it.
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
Sorry but the guy on the other site that this is from is working slower than you but fyi consider this maybe next boat.
Cheers
Chimo
I also went ahead and made the deck hatch frames. When we cut the foam for the floor, this will go underneath so that we can make 1 inch hatches that sit in the frame. I used to use lots of the plastic hatches, but I get tired of buying them every year as they are super fragile. The corecell hatches don't break.
And then here are the first two pieces of floor. These go right next to the motor. There is still some welding i need to do in the back for the rudder and piston, so we are going to do the front part of the boat which is easier. It'll feel nice to get some of the floor in there. The hatches still need some finish work, but we've done several and they look pretty good when we get them finished up. I used to use plastic hatches, but with lots of trips with drunk customers, I need some bulletproof hatches so they don't break. The hatch itself will be 1 inch corecell and they sit in there pretty deep so we don't have problems with them moving or coming up when you don't want them to.
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Great project and photos. But for the record putting foam under the floor like that (no matter how much) gives you "Basic Floatation" not "Level Floatation". You need to have foam in the sides for level floatation. The designer should be able to advise you how much you need.
A pic of the boat taped ready for colour, colour on and a bit more of the interior.
Remember to always log on before heading offshore.
Mate that looks sic!!
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