Hey guys what's your procedure for anchoring in your desired position once the mark is confirmed on the sounder?
I never seem to get it quite right which I'm sure costs me fish when they're finicky and not keen to venture far from the drop.
Mine goes like this steam to GPS co ordinates via garmin echmap 7 which puts me close. Then slow circle work until drop is spotted on sounder. Then shut down and establish direction of drift. Then attempt to anchor about 20 metres up tide of the mark so as to feed berley trail of Phillies past drop so as to feed in weighted pillie and squid baits back. I've been doing this for years but find once the pick is down the boat behaves different to when free drifting and often results in constant re setting which gives me the willies. The boat is a v17l so deep v and one would assume more influenced by tide the light winds.
This gives me the shits to I hate it when you miss a spot by say 20m so I pull it up move over 20 and end 20 the other way it never seems to do the same thing twice. What else annoys me is when you get it right then the wind or tide changes and swings you around.
Re: tips for anchoring over drop accurately
It's particualry annoying when you don't have an anchor winch
IF the wind and the tide are in exactly the same direction you have a good chance if you judge it right; if not, gets hard. If you are effected by tide but want to swing more on the wind, raise your leg so not as much boat is in the water. If the tide is strong, you can actually stream a sea anchor out the back, PITA but it will work if the tide will take you where you want to be. I anchor and burley a lot, it's good when it ll works together, aggravating when it is not. I put a cursor mark on exactly where I want to be , go in the direction I estimate to be correct for a preset distance from the cursor depending on depth, drop and drive back. And hope.
I was drifting once in a 10-12kt wind with a sea anchor out, but something was not right. Turned the track on, and I was making good progress directly INTO the wind, courtesy of a strong tide and the sea anchor
buy a SARCA these thing will pull up right where you drop them instead of dragging, the wind and tide can still make it difficult getting right on the spot but a least you wont be drag past your spot trying to to get it to hold
I never have any issues with dragging, use a Danforth ,reversible type with plenty of chain, the secret to getting any anchor to get it's nose straight into the bottom. I even drop it on very snaggy bottom, and always get it back. I notice the Sarca has the reversing feature, very useful if snagged. And very expensive if it stays snagged, I suppose it's not an issue if you mainly anchor on sand/mud/light rubble.
The issues are always with contrary wind/tide.
In the early days before Gods Perfect Spot (GPS) were available we used to paint a float (2l coke bottle is a good size.) with the bright reflective road paint and using light line and a weight drop it on a spot that we sounded up, great visual aid and sometimes we would anchor perfectly first time but rarely needed to reanchor more than once. Also was a good indicator of when wind and tide changed, or anchor let go. Also used it to start a drift, been thinking of getting back to using it again.
Yes I have used this method too, does make it easier, just used a floating bouy / dive flag with weight on end of string.
Certainly works, way back then we always dropped the fish marker over then anchored back, usually pulled it up to prevent tangling. We were using it last year on one extended trip after getting tired of re-anchoring, using our release weight on an old plastic oil bottle.
The Tropics, flow, variable winds and a high-sided boat.....I get the shakes these days even thinking about trying to nail a mark.
years ago we always used a thrown marker esp at night, might make myself one to see if it improves my nerves modernly.
Will need to buy a new small pick and mud anchor to take along now though......more stuff.
FNQ, found those snapper leads with wire spikes they use in the surf is often enough if your using a 2l coke bottle.Originally Posted by FNQCairns
Thanks Dignity I remember them from years ago, and will chase one up in the flesh to see how strong they are. The biggest problem on the reef up here is getting it all back each time, lots of nooks, cranny's and crags down there in places and may need to use the boat as the muscle sometimes I expect, perhaps a miniature copy of the boats anchor system.
But I dunno I might be over thinking it already.
I use 18 lb nylon from an old hand line, put on enough for the depth you are using, nothing flash
You don't need anything flash, you have to balance the bouyancy of the float with the diameter of the line(due to tide drag) and have enough weight to stop it from moving. ie, a big float with a thick cord and a light weight will see it disappear over the horizon in a good tide. Or a small float with heavy cord and a heavy weight will see it dragged under, on the spot, in the same strong tide. Simple physics. One thing to be mindful of is that the weight shouldn't really be quite heavy enough to drag the float under if the line tangles before the weight hits bottom, or you have lost the lot. DAMHIK.
For years I've found anchoring the hardest part of fishing - always miss it by 'that much' (I copy almost exactly your procedure for anchoring - using the thickest chain, over 5m to stop drag).....will be grabbing an 80lb minn kota when funds allow and spot locking.... a lot of money, but hopefully fishing memories improve..... will need to hit the gym more often though, as retrieving the anchor gives me the workout at the moment!
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